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haha.

ace.

i see MDCC has (thankfully) toned down the asinine forum behavior to make room for GA2G. Too bad GA2G is not nearly as informative.

mdcc - i'm only joking around.
ga2g - i'm completely serious.

that Look is soooooo nice.

fixed

Pure gold, via Prolly, by Argonaut cycles.

More here.

this gives me an excellent idea it looks almost as if you could swapt the left and right dropout would essentially switch things between veritcal and horizontal.

+1

caption?

Aside from the size of the bike...

fixed

If you're riding this bike fixed, you should get some foot retention, and a front brake.
That is just not right.

ive been riding (one of) mine fixed with no brakes or foot retention for oh.... about year and a half.

i'll eat my hat if the 105 is mated to 11 speeds.

he means wide enough cage for coping with 11 speeds without rubbing the sides of the cage in either the high or low cog position. the drop won't be a problem. tripples aren't usually mated to 11 speeds in the back.

when i deal with this i just assume that i'm not going to be using the granny gear and the smallest cog, so i set it up to rub in that gear, which i never use anyway. sort of tricky to get it right.

you'll need slightly more than 1:1 for some hills on a touring bike. Unless you literally don't mind walking or working really hard on every steep hill, the 24 would be the way to go.

a complete mess.

ed i'd do some nitto b603 or similar.

^^that embarrassing poor form.

^^point taken, in theory, but i've never had a problem setting up road brakes. point taken though. Anyway, it was an issue for MTB brakes. True. Now that i think about it, MTB brake levers had a rather steep inhernet falling rate back when rim brakes were used. It was partly (the rate wasn't, just the y intercept) adjustable, even, thorugh very simple system.

edit: i can't find a pic, but there was an allen nut that would move the attach point of the cable fitting towards or away from the pivot.

now that i'm thinking about this, the whole problem was worsened by the fact that cantilever brakes has a rather rapid falling mechanical advantage, meaning if you wanted any power, you had to set of the brakes close to the rim with a low angle on the cross cable.
whole thing sucked.

V brakes partly solved the problem by being flat rate at the point of the brakes.

anyway

do cables really stretch, or is it the outers that compress?

My own idea for the 'ultimate' rim brakes is to take the arms of the EE brakes from the main pivots down, build them into the forks and drive them with hydraulics. The only reason conventional brakes need so much brake-drop adjustment range is to accommodate forks with different tyre clearances. Build the brakes into the fork and you can probably get away with no drop adjustment at all, leaving little more than the pads in the air-stream. The pipes would run down inside the steerer, and i'd build a progressive advantage linkage into the levers, where it can be designed to recalibrate automatically if it gets too close to bottoming out. (A good reason not to build progressive advantage linkages into cable brake levers is that the high leverage bit would be quite harsh on the cables. I think hydraulics would tolerate this better.) You might need to stiffen the forks a bit, but that should be more efficient than providing an entirely separate structure. I'd worry a bit about how brake heat is handled.

The rear brakes would be built into the chain-stays, as they are already pretty chunky.

dude the entire point of hydraulics is that you can manipulate the mechanical (bit of a misnomer here) advantages simply though the alteration in the size of the pistons at the action end and driving end of things. no moving parts are needed. the draw backs are the seals.

the advantage to cables is that they are reliable and easy to work on. They draw back is that they are mechanical and require moving parts.

you're taking the worst of both worlds and combining them.

also a progressive advantage (falling rate) makes very little sense, as the actual movenent in the system once the pads hit the rim is very tiny; whatever direction you make the rate change go, it's not gonna change much once things start to matter.

Rate changes are commonly done on rear suspension so that they never bottom out, so to speak. The advantage approaches zero and the shock is never sent through it's entire stroke. This gives a bottomless feel to the end of the compression and is easier on the shock. this works because the system is dynamic. Brakes are a static system, largely.

hahaha.... i'm laughing with you jambon, not at.

(Yawn)...

go back and look at the cinelli you posted. i actually thought you were kidding. whats going on with the front end? Maybe i'm missing something.... but to me it looks like that bike calls for a 650, and someone put a 700 fork/wheel on it.

yea... only cause crank is silver.

why not silver?

i would have gond silver for sure.

nice bike though.

hampsten is nice. do not like drops on anythign other than a race/track/cyclox bike, though, and so i'd go with something more touring or towny.

nuknow quit fucking around.

Another guy on here is looking for them too... perhaps you can search together?

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread28851.html

best post on the forum.

what ed said.