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quick question, im about to have a frame re-sprayed. do i have to do lug lining BEFORE it gets the clear coat? Or can i do it after? Is it going to peel or will the paint withstand abuse? I ask because it will be a pain doing 2 trips to the spray painters. Do i need the clear coat?
First, is it being powder coated?
If it is then no you don't do it before the clear coat (powder coating is done at high temps which will fuck up any paint you add).
Also if it is a gloss colour then you don't really need a clear coat (see mine).
If it is stove enamle then you do it inbetween colour and clear coat.
There are tips on how to do the lug lining... which I'm guessing you've found if you've found this?
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....Anyway... a quick question:
** Is everything in Brick Lane stolen?**
I need a couple of small parts - bolts, BB, etc. Reading the recent posts (before the wild accusations) it sounds like the stolen stuff is confined to a small area. Is this the case?
Basicaly am I allowed to buy my bits and sleep at night?
Sorry just wanted to bump this onto the next page in the hope of an ans....
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^^ reminds me of school when my history teacher bollocked someone and everbody lowered their head a bit....
Anyway... a quick question:
** Is everything in Brick Lane stolen?**
I need a couple of small parts - bolts, BB, etc. Reading the recent posts (before the wild accusations) it sounds like the stolen stuff is confined to a small area. Is this the case?
Basicaly am I allowed to buy my bits and sleep at night?
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filing frame vs axle
Frame - harder metal, fuck it fuck the fame/forks
Axel - Softer metal , fuck it spend £5 on new axleI don't know... you're only ever filing a tinny bit off the frame or forks, and its quite easy compared to filing an axle. Plus once its done if you replace your wheels you don't have to go thru it again.
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....Just get a flat-head screwdriver and a spanner and tap them out from the inside of the head tube. Shouldn't take much force.
...if it's stuck in good and proper, this method will be destructive removal if it is soft alloy. the screwdriver makes an awful mess of the headset....
Dylan has a point RE being careful if its alu, if its steel it'll be fine.
I put some electrical tape over the end of my screwdriver to soften the blow.
You want a screwdriver thats as wide as possible, while still making lots of contact with the headset... if that makes sence.
Make sure you take your time and work your way around.
Also UTS bc there are lots of things out there on this, which may give you extra tips (like how to make the tool Dylan is talking about)
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...either;
a) a really good deal on a modern racing hybrid or road bike with good components, **or **
b) an older road bike with a "bit of character".Hybrid with "a bit of character"?
Just to clarify:
Looking for EITHER:
a) Modern compact road bike,
b) Racing hybrid (ie flat handle bar racer - like Genesis Day 2/3), OR
c) Something with a bit of character (ie would give some extra pleasure/enjoyment that makes it a more viable option than choosing a newer bike with superior modern parts).This is in the Wanted section...
.... I'm hardly asking for "all the parts I need to build a wicked fixie inc. H+ aero spoke for under £150" or "Sugino 75 for £30"... etc, etc...
... and I'm not asking ppl to search these Classifieds or any other Classifieds...
... just a general shout-out if anyone has something that fits the bill in a small size that they were thinking of selling - or knows someone thinking of selling.
Sorry if I missed something.
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Looking for a bike for a friend after his Genesis Day got stolen, so just thought I'd ask here.
He is after either;
a) a really good deal on a modern racing hybrid, or
b) modern compact road bike with good components, **or **
c) an older road bike with a "bit of character".The bike is for commuting and some long rides (Lake Dist, Isle of Wight, etc.)
Small frame 51-54cm.
His bugget is £150 to £400
Let me know if anyone has anything suitable.
Cheers.
ps I know there are some other good forums (c-t-c etc.) which ppl go on - links to these are also appreicated.
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fwiw I was looking at cross levers recently and in the end went for Tektro RL720, £16.99 the pair from SJS, which was £10 cheaper than the Cane Creeks, look and feel nice enough for the money
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Tektro-Tektro-Top-Mount-Brake-Levers-7187.htm
That's really good to know - for a pair thats a bargan.
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@ kerley - you're obviously right and we all know it... however much ppl try and argue otherwise.
@ Ricochet - the only way to keep costs down is with 2nd hand parts - so if you're lady has to have all new parts, you're screwed.
If you can get a good deal on a couple of fully built bikes, then strip them, sell the unwanted parts* you might be in with a shot... I've found that its the small parts that add up (seatpost here, BB there, brake cable, etc, etc.), so if you can save on these it helps.
Also GA2G's point is valid, allot of this fixie culture is BS, but I like fixing bikes as a hobby... while I see my GF as more a full time job.
- now summer is over selling is going to be harder... and alot of those bargins only come up when ppl are clearing out, so you'll have to wait till the grip of winter for ppl's parents to die or for spring cleaning.
- now summer is over selling is going to be harder... and alot of those bargins only come up when ppl are clearing out, so you'll have to wait till the grip of winter for ppl's parents to die or for spring cleaning.
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Just finished lacing my wheels together.
On-One 32H hubs - £35.75
Ritchy Vantage Pro rim - £20
ACI spokes - 18.24
Rim tape - £2.40
**
Total - £76.39**


... just need to true and tension... thought I'd give myself a break before I set to the hard part.
I originaly wanted black spokes + nips, but couldn't justify the extra cost for a bugget build.
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I would just say to set it up and check out the build yourself as mine was downright dangerous the way it was set up from Halfords, and don't bother taking it back there for any servicing.
FYI - ppl say the one in St Pauls is good, and after going there today and the guy behind the counter putting his phone call on hold to ask me if he could help and the mech giving me some free crank arm bolts, I'm sold on their good service.
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The OTP bikes I've looked at in shops seem heavy and expensive; the mark ups must be incredible. I've built a couple for c.200 quid using off the peg bits and nearly-new 531 and alu frames, meanwhile Charge charge c.500 quid ... what on?
..."I see you have now added that your £200 bikes are made up of used parts, spares etc,. So bit misleading on the original £200 comment I feel"
....no, what I explained is how you build bikes rather than being ripped off. some people seem to think buying off LFGSS, off bike club contacts, off mates is worse in some way than writing a massive cheque to your local chainstore...
No offence but you didn't really explain that at all.
The OT was started by someone who here here for 3 months or so, therefore building isn't really practical.
I agree with what you're saying now, but all this "my beater only cost me £40 and a pack of mm's to build..." is bollocks.
You can build cheap bikes, once you've bought a few, got some bits and tools lying around, but if you're starting from scratch and factor in the time (even going on £5.80p/h) then OTP's are not a rip off (which is actualy what you said).
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hugo7 - havent you just proved you can build a bike for around £200?
ok you spent a bunch on tools etc, but they could be sold for not much of a loss if you wanted, to but you end up with things that will keep costs down in the future as you will be able to maintain your bike on your own...
... well I've kind of proved you can build a bike for just over £200, but not not with new OTP parts and nearly new frame (my bike cost £5 FFS!), which is what dulwichrider was saying.
My real point was *most *OTP bikes aren't a rip offs and you can't build a new bike from scratch for the same price as OTP.

if you search the internet there are lots of make you own stand.
Haven't tried any yet, but they all look quite simple.
Re clamp: I thought the first one was quite a good idea (the tube with hinges) - that way you can make sure its properly paded.