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Dibs - Specialized Crossroads Armadillo Elite Tyre.

PM'd.

Dibns on the Brooks B17 Narrow, pm coming

^ then stop pissing about on some shity forum talking to a bunch of weirdos!

^ +100

Good point about the coating. Maybe take a bit of sandpaper to them.

Bump.

Not because I'm selling anything (well I am but not here), but because I've just noticed the post of the bike with the wheelset and I'm pleased they're being used and looking so good...hopefully they're still riding well....

...not sure I'd be using that^ for polo tho ;)

RE 25c's...

Schwalbe make good tyres. Marathon's have a good rep (altho they're meant to be a bitch to get on... but then you're not meant to have to take them off until they're dead) - I've never used them tho, but I liked the lugano's.

I run 25c maxxis refuse in london, for the puncture resistance and to give a little bit of extra comfort but without compromising rolling resistance (and bc a forumunger who's opinion I respect rates them)... I like the set up.

My road bike has ~20c I think (veloflex paves), and that spends more time in the countryside... so if it was me rolling around country lanes, I'd just stick to 23c. I don't know what the langster's tyres are like, but stock tyres are usually a bit shit and my *very *limited experience says wheel stuff generally seems to be money well spent.

If you search you'll find the tyres list which has plenty of information.

^^ yes the general consensus is they are the price point - but obviously the Ultegra ones will be better and the DA better than those... and I'm sure there are some boutique ones which are even better.

I'd start with pads and checking your cables/setup, bc the stock shimano pads are a bit shit anyway so you'd be stupid not to get new ones if you're upgrading. One of the good things about the fibrax ones* is they're cheap and you can get replacement pads for the holders. The only bad thing is they wear out quick... but then you've got to weigh up your riding style (ie you're riding out of town, not stopping every 5mins2mins for lights).

TBH it might be worth going to your lbs and trying to blag a test ride on a road bike with topend kit - so you have an idea of the limits of callipers.

I've never used really shit hot road brakes and its been ages since I've been on an MTB, but it seemed to me that when it comes to braking you're taking a whole different league...but then you'd wouldn't complain about a mtb having too much rolling resistance on the roads would you?

I guess my point is unless you get brazeons for disc brakes, you're not going to have disc brakes, so just learn to accept the limits.

*Chainreaction sell them

^ and ^^ both true.

I always too and fro with the idea of spending the money. My bikes fit ok, but I know they could fit better,

Once I've got the groupo for my next build its going to be the next bike purchase.

On another note I'm addicted to the hook form Strawberry Letter 23 song.

My 2p

I've always felt a bike fit is a luxury for most ppl. ESP when stems are cheap.

However, if ur proportions are a random as you say I think that it might be ~£100 of so well spent. I'd have thought a good thing about he pomp is that it's compact, so with an inline seatpost and a shirt stem you should be able to get the tt/st combo you need.

^^ theres a YouTube video I like in three parts. It's a guy with big safety googles. I'll try and dig it out

I tend to do the leading spokes on each side first. Also remember to keep everything as loose as possible, so NO tension. Until everything is in place you literally only want the spokes and nips just screwed in - ie one or two turns.

Also +1 to taking your time.

EDIT: this set here -
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku9ZsoaAqFM&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]YouTube
- How to build a bike wheel Part 2.2, 36 spoke[/ame]

I found the way he explains counting the holes etc really helpful.

First, you've got to remember that they're not disc brakes and are never going to be close.

The first and cheapest option is checking they're properly set up and buy new brake pads (fibrax for cheap or Swissstop for +$).

Next is upgrading to better calipers. Shimano are always good. 105s with decent pads should be fine n

Next is upgrading to ceramic rims. To my knowledge mavic open pros are the only ones ~£80 a rim. You will also need ceramic specific pads and I think the main benefit is only really in the wet.

Why on earth not?

Because its not in stock.

There's a glitch in their website which means whenever something is displayed as being in stock, it actualy means it's not in stock. Unfortunately it doesn't work vice versa.

^ that's not fair.

You can't post a link to a price from je james cycles.
[URL="http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/thomson-elite-stem-item7187.html"][/URL]

I don't know what all the fuss is about. I like your threads, they help to take the edge of my boring afternoon work.

Oh, just by way of a helpful pointer, you can put more than one sale item in a thread. The easiest way to do this is by hitting the enter/return key twice and then posting the next item.

This is usuful becasue it means we only have to bump one thread with scarcastic comments and minimises the number of other sale threads that get pushed down.

If you do that ^ I'd go for ACI double butted spokes from cycle basket that come in at more like £20.

Altho like I said with varno selling hand built wheels to that price I'm not sure I'd bother with the time delay and arsing about if you're just after a black/silver wheelset.

Just buy those ones for under £100 from Varno.

Unless you're after funny colours I can't of a reason to spend over £100 untill you go +£200 on a new build.

This post lists the dets: http://www.lfgss.com/post1599359-103.html

This is the thread: http://www.lfgss.com/thread49556-4.html

How do I get through to a person at paypal?

ie what is the magic combination of options?

EDIT: Finally!!!

Just for future reference I chose: dispute resolution > escalate a claim

^ some valid points, but in this occasion its more like sour grapes.

£95!

FFS if there was so much forum spirit and integrity the first post would have said "I think you're under-pricing those, a more sensible price would be £X".

^ I too think a QR done up tight enough on the rear will be ok.

Pretty sure sheldon says the original reason was in the late 80s when couriers first invented track fixed gears QR were wingnuts and one flew off into the crowd and killed someone.

HOWEVER, having used pittlocks, I'm not that convinced that you can get the same pressure (?) with a pittlock as with a normal QR, and I think it would be a bit more fiddly to get the wheel in the position.

Personally, I'd just buy/upgrade to a new and improved front road wheel, use a pittlock and sack off the rear. The cost and effort of faffing about basically cancels out the cost and likely hood of someone stealing the rear light.

Just my 2p.

whoops... wrong thread.

Wanted to have a rant so searched for "Spotted" and clicked the first hit... which turns out to be in polo rather than general.

This is the video. It seems to be standard practice to post it at least once in a thread at the mo.
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

Spotted:

One of those guys from that video that keeps getting posted ...

...riding a dark grey pug singlespeed with one brake, just off elephant and castle heading toasted borough.

Just by way of some advice, its a good idea to move to the left hand side of the road rather than staying in the middle of the outside lane. Because if you do that 1) the guy driving behind has to drive at your speed or undertake without being sure if youre suddenly going to move across; and 2) it makes you a Dickhead.

Good luck with cycling in London... you're going to need it.

Hollaway is north London. Google maps will give you a better idea. No4 bus I think.

^^ funny isn't it... there was a time when even 3rd hand an eno hub (allowing you to convert any old road frame at will) attached to a rim that deep would have got for almost the same price as new.

Times change I guess.

Get lost he was talking to me ;)

Yes both 700c. 32h, light silver. PM me for details.

Even if this is true, it's not the reason most people who ride SS with just a front brake do that, they do it because they want to look like they're riding fixed, when they're not. It's fashion. Which is pathetic given other people's safety is potentially involved. HTFU and Just ride fixed or buy a front rear brake.

ftfy

Yesterday evening I saw a guy on a boardman (ruined by the shit yellow deepveez) doing that, and as usual just think pretentious twat. My next bike is going to be ss, and I'm looking fwd to it, I never understand why the shame?