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^ +1

... but I think the fork decal is too big - needs to be similar size to the reynolds triangles IMO

Yeah... it needs a bit more tidying up... someone on here suggested a sharp knife so I've been using that and white spirit.

Its def a hard thing to perfect, esp as my lugs arent always that smooth, which means you dont have a guide.

Have you checked out the Armourtex respray gallery... might give you some ideas.

Powder coat is def the way to go. I've always liked pale orange (like the Gulf racing colours)...

...but seeing your bike gold might be a good option. Iether way I think old school bikes often look best in bright colours.

Update on putting gears back on my old Carlton...

Got the frame back from Armortex and spent the day trying to pick out the lugs with Rover touch-up paint from Halfrauds...
/attachments/12303/attachments/12304/attachments/12305
... some of its ok, some bits not. But from a distance I think it improves the look.

Struggling replacing the bb... one of the cups just doesnt want to go in:(

Also ordered new tires and orange cables. Still trying to work out what to do for the bars + brakes.

@ samwillard

• do these look good in the flesh?
  
  

Have you used them for braking yet? - if so how are they?

I've got the same prob as you.

Check out this page/forum.

I recon these seem like a good bet.

Remember if its an old frame the brakes will need to be nut fitting as oposed to allen key fitting. The holes in your F+F can be drilled out to take allen key, but it will add to the costs and there are new long reach brakes which are nut fitting.

Just got this back from Armourtex.

RAL 5012 no clear coat = £49
/attachments/12200
The frame had some really heavy rust and pitting, so some of this has come thru - nothing could really be done about it tho.
/attachments/12199
Overall really happy, v quick and helpful.

Just a couple of things...

1) The RAL colour chart is big but often won't give you the exact colour you want. I was after a old school light/baby blue. RAL5024 was a bit too grey and the others were a bit dark.
2) All this talk about powercoat being "thick" is more or less bollocks. There has been no loss in quality RE my lugs. Obviously its not as thin as the original enamel was, but it is not "thick".

how much for the straight black handle bars and how long are they?

My new/old project:

This:
/attachments/11990

+

This:
/attachments/11991

= ?

Finally going to put gears back on my old Carlton and sort it out properly. The decision was prompted by the blue Peracinni bike bought off here and the failure of my cottered cranks. Shame as I have been loving FG riding, but I think its for the best.

Just got to say how sweet the Peracinni was to ride it back from Victoria yesterday - despite being way too big, unadjusted brakes, knackered tires and being pissed on.... loving the mix of campag/dura ace components on a nice frame.

Currently stripping the Carlton for armotex (as close to this as I can get) and contacting H LLOYD CYCLES for the decals. Unfortunately they can't match the original (problem with them being "imichrome"?) so going to get similar type.

Thanks for all the info.

Yes its an old frame. Originaly with only rear derailer. The cable is meant to go on the top of the chain stay so I think Pifko's part is out... although the tip on drilling a hole is good to remember.

Here are a couple of pix to illistrate:
/attachments/11987
/attachments/11988

Dutch Cheese - thanks for the links - I prob should have searched ebay. Tried here and google, but it seems everything that guides any sort of cable is called a cable guide.

I think the 1st link is the best option, but I guess I could remove the current rear cable guide and use the campy downtube cable guide for a cleaner look... just hate filing original bits off.

No it doesn't.

Just to be clear that bolts on the underside of the BB, making the gear cables run underneth the bike?

On mine, the cable guide for the rear mech is a braze-on which sits above the BB on the drive side of the seat tube. But there is nothing for a front mech.

Quick question, what is the correct name for the clamp-on cable guide for a front mech?

Like the item in the very centre of this pix
/attachments/11974

My bike has no braze on to feed the cable from the down tube shifter up into the front mech.

Also I need one, so if anyone has one pls let me know.

Thanks

If you type "seatpost size" (like your thread title) into the "Search" tab you get a list of 4 search results...

....the last one in the list is titled "How to measure seatpost size"...

...if you click on the link it will take you to this page:

http://www.londonfgss.com/thread2983.html

If you read the posts there will be some useful information...

...eventually you will come to the 9th post down which gives you a cheap solution.

3rd dibs on the Shimano 600 "Arabesque" downtube shifters, front & rear mech please.

You can get a little pully thing that increases the cable pull - see half way down on this thread... http://www.londonfgss.com/thread19308.html

I think it looks like this...

I have no idea how well it will work if ur running both drops and cross.

Thanks for all of that - really helpful.... now I just need to start saving and sorting out the rest of the bits.

oh and is this what you're talking about?
/attachments/11372

PM'd re Shimano 2200 STI Shifters 8 speed - £20

What is it that you are not happy with?

Also are the drop brakes meant for v-brakes?(see the bottom of the page) - I'd guess they are if they came with the bike.

Thanks for the info guys.

@ El_Diablo - I've heard/googled v brake adaptors before, but the problem I have is the frame and forks aren't drilled. Are there v brake adaptors which bolt onto the frame?

It has some seriously knackered origninal 1950s cantilevers. Although I recon I could get them working I'm worried about the stopping power.

Do you recon the best bet is;
a) to get holes drilled + adaptors[I][/I]; or
b) braze-on v-brake bolts?

Again thanks for the info

sorry for the tread-jack but... is the consensus that well built 36 spokes will be fine for a tandem? (I'm about 12st and my GF is 9ish).

and...

@ El_Diablo - did you find any? have you put them on? if so how are they holding up? - Thanks

@ edmundro - thanks for the tips - yes I replaced the cotter pins (had to drill and file them out tho), new bearings + grease and it runs perfectly. Always amazed at how well old bikes work with some effort.

Re - seat - its been adjusted... but i still like the seat tilted

Just won this
/attachments/11184
/attachments/11185

What do you recon? - I thought it might be a good way of doing some touring with my GF.

ps am googling at the mo, but if anyone knows of good tandem website pls let me know.

@ DickBarton - will take your advice on Jenotite - any recomendation RE jelly vs liquid?

On my seat angle - its not as steep as it looks, and I find flat seats hurt my balls... unless I'm not holding the handle bars... which makes cornering harder.

Hi I've got quite allot of surface rust on my frame. Its steel, seems structurally sound. I plan to powder coat eventually, but am enjoying riding it.

**The question is can I leave it? **

I think I can. It's kept indoors, lightly oiled all over and I think the rust would protect it to a degree. I also don't want to respray until its done enough miles that I am confident the frame won't fail.

Am I being thick? Will it get worse?

RE the tubing - TI = Tube Investments I think its Truwel double butted frame tubes. Mine has the same logo. Its stripped down and fixed. I love it. Its reasonably light even with the clottered cranks, and feels great on the road.

As its seems to have all the parts I'd say keep it, clean it, ebay it. Or post on here.

Here's mine b4 and after (the b4 makes it look better than it was).