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dibs on #20, pm on way!

It's actually riding victoriously over a nasty green Falcon shopper.

I don't think anyone would suggest that's a torture worthy offence.

note: I'm aware of no evidence that would suggest that this bike is guilty of child abuse.

Yeah, it's not big...The above set up is how I got it, dunno how sizing works with lo pro's and what height a rider this bike was designed for. Someone smaller than me, that's for sure. The guy I bought it off was short but not midget. Hmmm.

Yep, another photo added, with wheels and everything else.

The seat tube is 50cm centre to top, 41.5cm, centre to centre and the frame takes 650c wheels FRONT and BACK.

The paint job it stunning as you can see with blended metallic red and yellow with black detail. The drive side chain stay is part chromed. The decals are on top so can be removed if you wanted. There are a few small chips in the paint mainly on the drop outs and the brake bridge so they'll be hidden when the bike is built up.

I'm not sure what they tubing is but it's really light and people have suggested it may be either Columbus SLX or Reynolds 753. Given the frame builder* I think it's fair to assume the steel he used is of very high quality. There is internal routing for both gear cables before and after the bottom bracket and for the rear brake cable. The bottom bracket shell is Cinelli and the frame number is 000300. There is a braze on for the front mech, cable guide braze ons either side of the head tube and one above the bottom bracket for the front mech

• "Rick Powell is a former Carlton Cycles Master Craftsman. He worked at the worksop factory from the mid 1950’s until the factory closed in 1981. During this time, under the guidance of Gerald O’Donovan, Rick was able to copy the skills of legendary frame builders Bob Kealing and Eddie Haslehurst. He later became the chief frame paint sprayer and then eventually took the position of shop foreman. When Carlton closed in 1981 Rick set up his own business building very high quality bicycle fames until 2003. During that period Rick supplied frames to dealers and individuals that went on to countless successes both nationally and internationally. Rick has built bikes for many champions including current World Champion Victoria Pendleton."
  
  

The bottom bracket included is a classic Mavic from the 610/616 Series, described here as "perhaps not the lightest bottom bracket to be seen in the pro peloton during that era, but certainly one of the smoothest and strongest.".

An unbranded 27mm seat post is included.

Now, the bad news...

The braze on for the downtube shifters/cable stops has come off. The braze on itself and the adjustable cable stops that attach to it are included. This could be brazed back on but the paintwork would be damaged to some extent. Alternatively band on downtube shifter or cable stops could be used depending on what kind of shifters you want to use, if any...

More info and photos on request.

It's in Brighton - £175

I expect 56a will have a vice

phwor.

wtf with those gossamners??!

There was 1 for £35 BIN posted on fleabay (gone already) so I googled to get the rrp and found ^ weird huh.

Now, do I need another chainset and BB?...

Am I missing something here? FSA gossamer bb30 chainset and bb most places ~£200, tredz £28 posted.

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&q=FSA+Gossamer+BB30&scoring=p

I'm spotting the differences in chainrings and thinking maybe an 08 model or something but that's a helluva discount at tredz, and they're not shouting about it...

Hmmm.

Listing says RRP is £80 but utfs and it seems to be £200 and the jacket gets good reviews.

Too big for me...

There's another one for sale now, and a brown one too.

Listing says RRP is £80 but utfs and it seems to be £200 and the jacket gets good reviews.

Too big for me...

Coupla notes:

The fixed cup get screwed all the way in, on the drive side.

The adjustable cup goes in the non-drive side as far as it needs to so that the bearing run nice but there's no lateral movement. Lock ring then whacked on good and tight.

Counter intuitively the axle goes in in such a way that the end with the longer flats goes in the non drive side if that makes sense? It's not symmetrical, in your picture the side with the longer flats are on the right hand side.

Hope that's some help to someone.

The pins are for adjusting the adjustable cup as shown in the post above where the cup has holes in

Don't think so, these wouldn't fit in an adjustable cup that needs a pin spanner to work with.

See:

The Park site usefully says: "The opposite end has two ears that are 23mm wide and approximately 5mm wide." No info on what it's for tho.

Anyone?

Hey Nick, I've been waiting for six weeks for you to bring the battens over so I can mount the print I bought off you to the wall.

What gives???

So, to summarise. The park hcw-11 is a perfectly good tool to deal with the adjustable cup described in the original question?

And to remove the (often more troublesome) fixed cup you can use either a "bolt through" remover (link to follow edric64?) or you can make your own DIY remover Sheldon Brown stylee or you could try the park hcw 4 if the fixed cup needs a 36mm box end spanner.

p.s. some park tools are crap, some are serviceable, some are great. I love the hcw-11. Don't know what the weird pins at the other end are for though. Anyone?

I've never seen a bolt through BB remover that fits the flats on an adjustable cup that I think is being described here, any links to one?

Sheldon Brown's DIY fixed cup removal tool instructions are worth a look though I've never actually made it work...

reckon you need a hcw-11

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=HCW-11

Park stopped making them for a while but now do again :)

Meh. Let's all rollover and download an old (shit) song. It would be radical if the same people who d/l this went and voted once in a while.....

If voting changed anything it would have been made illegal years ago. Fact.

Fair enuf, I'm pretty chuffed if any of those names listed might have made my frame, happy days.

Cheers!

You should try it some time.
Meanie.

You must have a different google from me, when I google images "triple triangle" I get GTs and not much else. Hey ho.

Your frame is way cool tho
Thanks!

I'm stupidly tempted by the left hand one, are they in Brighton or London? I'm in Brighton...

Triple triangle: I just asked, and Steve made it!

Nice!

That's a pretty unusual design huh? Would it be leaping massively conclusions to think he (or a colleague or whatever) might have made mine too?

Any other frame builders using the triple triangle design (apart from GT)?

What's the deal with the triple triangle then? Is it a Goff Thing? (Ooh, GT, pun intended!) I've been trying to figure out what my speedway bike was before it was erm, modified, with the moved seattube and added BB bracing.

What do you mean when you say the cranks are stuck on the BB? Have you used a crank extractor that has been screwed (all the way!) into the crank all the way but then you can't screw the inner bit in?

The Park tools crank extractor like this:

with a cheater bar has (I think) worked every time for me.

As for the stem in the forks, has the bottom of the quill separated from the bottom of the stem? If it has and still can't move the stem reckon you'll have to chop the stem, you may be able to drill the remainder out of the forks afterwards.

Good luck!

@Moonshinewilly- how are you coping with the zero rake fork?

It's OK tbh, bit challenging messing about at lights etc but fine when you're moving. Phatish tyres smooth things a bit, it actually rides really nice.

Maybe swapping forks with some nice other chrome jobbies with a bit of rake would be sensible. Pah!