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im serious man.
you're a bit crazed.

r e l a x

Any other opinions or is that all you would like to add?

sure.
you seem to not handle differing opinions or criticism very well.
maybe keep an eye on your blood pressure...

obviously maxway produces alot of frames, but that does not mean everything they produce is equal.

the frame is still just 4130. and you asked "what is the difference between this an any other lugged steel frame?" -- there is a huge difference between these frames and higher quality frames. dont believe me? when you get your frame check the alignment and the welds.

you also asked our opinion on your project: my opinion is you're putting lipstick on a pig and probably spending alot to do so -- when you could take the same amount of money and pick up a quality lugged frame. if you want others' opinions, dont get all defensive when someone says something contrarian.

You mustn't get caught up on the company name. If you ride any of the newer fixies put out IE; steam roller, bare knuckle they probably make it. Besides in you mind what is the difference between this an any other lugged steel frame?

quality of tube set
geometry
build craftsmenship

SE has put out some real shite - are you familiar with their previous frames?

I think you should worry less about copper plating and the appearance of your bike and more about getting a quality frame.

expanding foam inside the handlebars.

What leads you to that conclusion?

so much work and money for an SE frame..?
polishing a turd, man.

lipstick on a pig.

that's my opinion.

seen worse... we are not here to discuss web design :{) what do you think about sheldonbrown.com ? :{)

the worst cycling-related website is www.yellowjersey.org

if I remember correctly, kryponite locks can be rotated. on-guard locks do not rotate due to their dual locking-mechanism.

well, I ended up ordering a 21.5" - hopefully that will be the correct fit. I couldnt decide between the 21" and the 21.5" -- I was concerned about the stand-over height due to the higher bb.

thanks

gook = derogatory vietnam war era slang for a vietnamese person

a strong D-lock work better than a chain lock thought, such as the NY Fahgettiaboutit Mini.

...still vulnerable to a angle grinder. might take 2 minutes or so.

when it comes to power tools, there's nothing you can do besides add more locks to increase time and get insurance and cross your fingers your're not unlucky enough to be a target of a professional criminal.

I was clipped by a car and my front brake somehow got caught on the car or was knocked off by the force. The brake lever broke and came off my handlebars, but was still attached to the brake cable and front caliper. The cable with broken lever swings down and hits my spokes. A split second later, I endo over the front my bicycle. I tuck and roll and land on my shoulder. Dislocated it.

All of this happened in one second, but I still see the sequence of events in my mind years later. Rather frightening.

is this the ski porn thread?

ugh
edit out the dead dog picture.
who wants to see that?

meh
I hate those cut bars.
nice ride besides that.

is that benotto cello tape comfortable at all?

solder is very difficult to melt into the bolt head - the entire bike acts like a giant heat sink. it can be done but you'll need plenty of patience. and when you think it's done right, the entire solder "plug" can just pop out. that was my experience.

and removing it even more of a pain -- which is the point, I realize -- but superglue/bb is easy to do and easy to remove if you have acetone and 20-30 minutes. A compromise, yes, but I dont think thieves will be carrying acetone and something sharp like a sharpened spoke and will want to spend 20 minutes digging away.

I was never able to remove all of the solder out of my seat post bolt, so I was not able to tighten the bolt as much as it should be. The seatpost kept slipping when I rode. I eventually had to replace the bolt.

solder does look more elegant though if you fill the bolt head all the way and then file the end smooth to match the rest of the bolt.

I personally wouldnt use solder again. You'll see what I'm talking about if you try.

never thought of that.

yeah acetone works very gradually.
expect to spend about 20 minutes dissolving and picking per bolt.

thanks.
how do you figure out the threading/pitch?

any tips on how one can cut a threaded fork on the cheap /DIY?

I use toshi black leather tape.
and no matter how I wrap the bars the tape creeps at the bends where I keep my hands often and exposes the bar underneath after 2-3 months of riding.

I am considering pre-wrapping the bars with friction tape and then wrapping the leather on. friction tape, of course, is a cloth double sided tape that is very thin and used in electrical applications. I figure the extra adhesive will prevent the leather tape from moving.

has anyone tried this before? or even had my problem?

I do not recommend solder - that was an experiment that I wish I never tried.

use superglue/ball bearing.
acetone will dissolve the glue.

but I am curious about these security screws. is there a specific name or part # or anywhere online that sells these?

I wear these and can recommend them: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/SixSixOne_Expert_Cycling_Shoes/5360035085/