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I haven't changed my view:
There are lots of reasons to have a sloping top tube, or a small front wheel, or bullhorns, but none of them on their own is definitive of a Low Profile, and a lo-pro can be built with equal sized wheels and a horizontal top tube, see Тахион. The only true lo-pro is a bike which replicates the hand position of the bottom of a drop bar by lowering the handlebar clamp enough to switch from drops to a bull horn.

I know it's a cross bike, but it's the only comparative photo I have to overlay. I think it shows the Shorter replicates the drop position, and has the same size wheels.
I've included the 2 original pictures and the overlay.
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Drilling a hole into carbon fibre, then applying the forces of a brake to an area which is not designed to take the strain is a bad idea*. A really bad idea.
Making a hole causes a weak point in the weave, then the compression of the brake bolt apply force to this weak area, and the force of braking will almost certainly be more stress than the fork can handle, resulting in failure/probably serious injury. Forks designed to take a brake are reinforced in the necessary areas, and designed to take the loads applied under braking.
I work with composite materials on a daily basis, and as a professional, strongly advise against it.*If the fork is reinforced to take a brake, but then left un-drilled, this does not apply. What forks are they?
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Certainly is, unfortunately it's a bit far from Hackney for the evening!
My favourite destination is Bishop, California.

That's somewhere I'd love to climb one day. We should organise an lfgss climbing expedition.
I've been out in Mallorca for the past 4 months, either sport climbing, deep waster soloing, or bouldering 6 days a week. Unfortunately, I'm away from land until October now, so the only climbing I'm doing is on the rigging.As far as shoes go, I have a few different pairs for different types of climbing. For super technical stuff, I have a pair of LaSportiva Miuras, which I really rate, but they would destroy my feet if I was doing an epic multi-pitch, so I've got some nicely worn-in, old 5-tens which are super floppy. They would be horrible for bouldering, but I can keep them on all day without any discomfort. I've also got an old pair I keep just for Psicobloc, so I don't trash my nice ones.
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I know what I'm asking for, and I know how much they cost. Sorry I didn't make it clearer.
Ideally, I would like a pair of Shamal track wheels. They would be perfect for the build. However, I know they don't come up for sale too regularly, so something like a set of Atlanta 1996 rims would also suit the plans pretty well. As a last resort, a rim with an approximately similar profile, like the original DP18 (which I know are clinchers, and are not the same as the modern pair you linked to, but thanks anyway, Spotter.) Would do as a temporary measure to get the bike to a state where it can be ridden, until a more suitable set come up.Hope that makes everything clearer.
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I meant classic DP18s, not modern ones. They're for a period-correct 90s track build. I can source hubs separately, if only rims are available too, by the way.
My budget is flexible, depending on the wheels. I'd pay a fair price for a pair of Shamal tracks in good shape, but I obviously wouldn't pay as much for a pair of DP18s.
Sorry for not being very clear. -
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Most off the peg bikes, and even cheaper, branded frames are made by a factory in China. The company choose the frame they want out of a catalog, maybe ask the factory to tweek something slightly, then brand them as their own to sell to the masses.
Most of the aluminium and carbon frames, from various companies, on the market now are made in just a couple of factories.