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I have a Selle Italia Nekkar, brand spanking in the packaging. Not a flite, but very similar shape (can take photos of it side-by-side with a flite, if you like)
Same as this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/selle-italia-nekkar-saddle/rp-prod120581
yours for £18 posted.
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Sort of, but I'm going to try to be sympathetic to the aesthetic of the fork, and not mess with the paintwork. More similar to this technique: http://andrewhowett.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/mending-carbon-frame.html
It will be plenty strong enough. The complete wrap is unnecessary in this case, and will actually cause stress above and below the repair, as it will be stiffer than the surrounding area.
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The original plan was to sell my car and build a nice, practical single-speed commuter for the country lanes near where I live now, to save money, and because I hate driving when I could be riding. It all started so well; looking for something sensible and inexpensive, like a pompino... However, the whole saving money bit went straight out the window, as I find it hard to restrain myself when speccing bikes, and this has already cost almost twice what I flogged my (admittedly almost dead) car for! I decided; if I'm going to build it from the ground-up, I might as well do things properly, and leave myself the option of racing the CX season when it comes around, if I decide to stay in the country for another winter…
This is the frame I bought from @Full_Metal_Sprocket:

And these pretty Colnago CX forks:

…which I discovered are cracked on one of the brake bosses, unfortunately:

However, I'm pretty competent with composites, and am going to have a go at repairing them. I expect a barrage of comments telling me it's a terrible idea, but I'm a boatbuilder by trade, and have done enough work with carbon to know whether or not I can trust my repair with my front teeth.
I have some parts already, and have ordered most of the rest of the bits I need to get it built this week hopefully:

The hubs are a little bit of an experiment, but look fine so far. They're GT BMX race hubs. 3/8" axles, 110mm rear spacing, and 28 spoke holes. They seem really nicely made, with 120 engagements on the freehub, and they fit in the frame fine (I'm okay with cold springing a steel frame 10mm, and the chainline is fine, as there is plenty of adjustment on the splined freehub). Had to file the front axle down a fraction to fit the 9mm dropouts on the forks, but again, that doesn't worry me, especially as they were less than £100 for the pair! I'm building them on to some 27mm Kinlin rims, with revolution spokes.
Updates to follow, as I progress with repair and build.
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Is anyone interested in a (very!) cheap, reliable, and surprisingly capable vehicle?
It's a 206 2.0 HDI with 147,000 miles on the clock, and it's never skipped a beat! We have had 4 people and all their climbing/camping gear in there, and I've recently fitted a tow bar for towing boats etc. It's a great vehicle for long journeys, and is economical for motorway cruising. Easily does 60mpg, and have squeezed 68mpg on long cruises. Being a 2litre turbo diesel, it also tows very well too. I have used it for towing my sailing dinghy (aprox 100kg total with trailer), and you don't even notice it's there!
Since I've owned it, it's been well looked after mechanically, and has plenty of life left in it. It doesn't smoke, and always starts easily on the first turn of the key. It's mechanically very healthy.The good points:
-4 brand new, matching tyres fitted about 500 miles ago
-fitted a brand new starter motor last week
-serviced with new filters and oil about 1000 miles ago
-front pads and discs were done about 6000 miles ago.
-Includes space saver spare wheel AND full size spare wheel with good tyre (I prefer taking this on long motorway journeys)
-Recently fitted tow-bar and tow-bar electircs
-Upgraded stereo to Sony head unit, with cd player aux cable (for iPod etc)
-Includes Haynes manual!The bad points (the reason it's so cheap!):
-The bodywork isn't great. there is a ding in the near side door sill, from a boat trailer being reversed into it, but this is merely cosmetic: the body is galvanised, so it will not rust here. there is also rippling on the roof, from a tree branch falling on it, but again, this is just cosmetic.
-The interior is reasonably straight, but not immaculate (as you'd expect with a 14yr old car!)- I had wet paint on my overalls, and some of it got on the drivers seat.
-The exhaust is cracked, and needs repairing to pass an MOT (will cost aprox £100 at an exhaust centre, or you can weld it yourself)
-Mot expires April 6thReason for sale: I'm leaving the country at the end of the summer, and don't need a vehicle during the summer. I have looked after the car well, and spent the money on it up until now, but don't need it any more, and struggle to justify spending the time/money fixing the exhaust and MOTing it, as I need to sell it anyway.
Apart from the exhaust issue, it should sail through it's MOT. I have tried to be as honest as possible, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I've tried to show everything in the photos, but if you'd like to see more specific details, I can take more on request.
I would like £400 as it is. Car is based near Woodbridge, Suffolk, but I will deliver for the cost of fuel+train fare home.
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I'm after some specific bits to finish a build. If anyone has any of the following up for grabs, or similar equivalents, let me know. If not, I'll buy them new:
27.2mm Thomson Elite inline seatpost (must be black)
110mm/-10deg Thomson stem (4x or 2x considered, black)
1 1/8" Chris King nothreadset in black
Also need a seat clamp. If anyone has a 29.8 Thomson or similar kicking around.Thanks,
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I'm not very good at keeping this up to date. Not put much on the blog recently either, but it's coming together. Will pull my finger out shortly.
This is the master cabin, boxed in, with the sole-boards roughly fitted in the passage way. The sole boards are properly fitted now, and the sole in the master cabin is down too. Will update with photos in due course. -
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A bit more fitting out over christmas. I'm not doing very well with updating this thread, but here's a pic of one of the doors I've made, which will be the entrance to the master cabin.
The tumblr blog has a lot more photos of everything we're doing, in chronological order, if anyone is interested in taking a look /
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Thanks. Some more recent updates on there; we're starting the interior fit-out at the moment: http://ketch-annelis.tumblr.com
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Yes. The ballast has been cast, and there has been a lot of not-particularly visible progress in behind the scenes stuff. Also the old interior is entirely stripped now, and the new interior bulkheads are being made and hopefully dry-fitted this weekend. Below are some photos from Ballasting, and hopefully the first proper fitting-out photos to follow shortly...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8nJhRSZHsY&feature=youtu.be
Here's a little stop frame we made, rendering he hull. The battery ran out before we finished, but it gives an idea of the technique; pushing throug from the inside, and smoothing off from the outside.


How many spokes? 16? I'd buy a set of nos or 2nd hand rims (you see them kicking around, I think there are some (tubs I think?) in classifieds at the moment).
I'd personally re-use the spokes too, as long as they're not visibly damaged, corroded or fatigued. I know it's generally considered bad practice, but I've re-rimmed countless wheels, personally and professionally, using 'old' spokes, with no ill-effects.