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4am this morning on Mare st, I get out of the saddle and PING! Landed on my lock just above my coccyx. can hardly walk, ripped my coat, hit my head, popped my shoulder out and in, somehow my jaw is hurting, bump on elbow.
I possibly put it on too tight, but have emailed Campy.
F*ckin glad it wasn't down Hyde Park underpass!
Anyway, how are you? I heard you parted company with Goby's?
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Front track wheel built by Harry Rowland:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/matts_bike_stuff/sets/72157622942397716/
FIR EA60 rim (not intended for a brake)
Campag Sheriff Star hub
28 DT Swiss plain guage spokes, radially laced.
Vitorria Pro Team 700x18 clincher tyre, possibly past its best through age, not wear.Never used off track.
Would like £175.
Homerton, London E5Thanks,
Matt
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Ride it on my 15,000 miles a year curb-hopping all-weather work bike? Nope.
My carbon road racing bike? Nope.
My time trial bike? It's not a 650.
My 1946 Bates Vegrandis? Nope - it's not a track bike and I'll break the flanges.
My Roberts track frame? Selling it.I guess I'll put it in classifieds then.
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I agree to a certain extent, but if you saw how much crap I have in my room you'd understand that I already have 5 bikes, several wheels and who knows what else. I'm a full-time bike courier and I make bike frames at the weekend, so I can only use so many bikes. There's a rear hub of this type in rough condition on ebay for £150.
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I recently became the lucky owner of this wheel:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/matts_bike_stuff/sets/72157622942397716/
However, I'm actually too afraid to use it because I think it's too good.
Was wondering if someone might know what it's worth. Not sure if I'll sell it, but on the other hand it seems crazy just to let it gather dust.Matt
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What's the process for building them?
- Enlarge crown to fit steerer tube.
- Braze steerer into crown.
- Slot fork blades - careful they're in the same plane as the widest part of oval blade.
- Braze dropouts into blades.
- Bend blades to desired rake.
- Enlarge crown blade sockets to accommodate blades.
- Put the whole assembly into the "Wilko-Matic" fork jig.
- Measure for caster, camber, fork twist, blade length, both blades same length, blades level, etc, about a million times.
- Take it all apart when the blades are the right length and flux the areas to be joined.
- Braze it.
- Realize that the heat has moved it.
- Remove dropout on long side, file 0.7mm on long blade slot, clean, flux, replace dropout. Braze. Check alignment with correctly dished wheel.
Put kettle on.
- De-flux, clean up with wet & dry paper.
- Enlarge crown to fit steerer tube.
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Hi,
Please could you let me know where you're based?
Thanks,
Matt