Search results for:

54cm sold pending payment/collection, 53cm 1st dibs rar, 2nd dibs dfp.

very nice 531 framed fixed gear on the CTC forum, seems well worth the money:
http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=18992&sid=d87b95f19ce58891ea80cfd63524ccea
pictures here (won't allow link to actual images):
http://mike-dean.fotopic.net/p55405536.html
it's in Cheshire (near Delamere Forest) but will post

^ jar, sorry, just read your request properly, can you let me know by tomorrow morning? cheers, H

cheap lo-pro (so far anyway) but no fork:

Regarding the crimes against frame-anity, I have to confess to having knowledge of a similar offence - someone else had SuperTed at LFG remove all the spurious braze-ons (front gear hanger, gear lever bosses and the rear brake channel), remove the existing rear brake bridge and replace it with one with no brake hole, re-space the rear to 120mm and braze track ends on for £100 (not incl. the ends), just as a guide. I couldn't possibly condone such activity of course...

I had an email notification that jar had posted saying 1st dibs on the 53, but strangely I'm not seeing the post... however I have the email, so for the moment it's 2nd dibs to dfp on the 53 until I hear back from jar.

Here's something for roadies - I have an unpainted Coppi branded 53x54cm race frame from the late 90's, about the time that Masciaghi, one of the many great unknown Italian manufacturers, acquired the rights to use the Coppi brand and decided to go racing. They collaborated with Giovanni Pelizzoli from Ciocc to produce some really special high-end race frames used by some top riders and teams of the day. Sadly for this particular design, around then the good old UCI decided to ban seat stays that didn't join the seat tube at the top tube, so a small batch that had been through the frame shop were consigned to a dusty corner of the factory... until recently.

Main feature is the very high-end Columbus Genius tubeset, and if you're doubtful about the tubes, how many steel frames of any size weigh in at just 1.64kg? Also, very nice fillet brazed joints at headtube and seat cluster, with a cast/lugged bottom bracket (with the Coppi logo on top and the Masciaghi one underneath). Comes with matching full chrome fork with Coppi engraved on crowns. The rusty appearance is just surface patina, just needs a rub down or quick bead blast to make ready for paint. Very close tolerance race frame, the rough assembly in the pic used a 25mm tyre and clearance was minimal, obviously designed for 23s or smaller. Comes with a full set of transfers including the Columbus Genius stickers for frame and fork, but personally I don't think the 90's Coppi graphics were very attractive and apart from maybe the head badge transfer I would give 'em a miss, or get the simpler old style ones.

I still have one frame left 53cm seat tube and 54cm top tube C2C, weighs 1.64kg without fork. Italian BB. 27.2cm seat pin, 130mm rear spacing with (short) 45º drop-outs, braze-ons for double bottle cages and front mech, downtube gear bosses. The rear brake cable is internally run. Although unpainted the frame is fully prepped with all chasing and reaming done, ready to paint, build and ride.

So, buy a really top quality hand-built NOS steel race frame and paint/build it up to your own taste - just like ordering a new bike! A frame of this quality would be at least £1000 in today's money. Shameless puppy-killers could get the torch out and strip the braze-ons and fit track ends, but I hardly dare mention that idea (it has been done!). I'm looking for £150 for the frame and fork. More pics available if required, will post UK for a tenner or worldwide at cost. I've added a couple of extra pics to show painted examples, including Richard Virenque scaling the Galibier on one! The pale blue one is maxl's 54x54 with paint by Colourtech, and dee Cal's 55x55 has also been to Colourtech for the full works recently.

And not available for 1/8" anyway AFAIK

I wouldn't have thought powerlinks/missing links and the like were a good idea on a fixed gear - when you kick back on the pedals, the top run of the chain goes slack slightly but momentarily as the power transfer is reversed the link could be put into compression and come loose (or truly missing)....? The traditional removeable link with spring retaining clip (top one in pic ^) is the most secure for sure, and there's no reason not to use more than one (with the appropriate inner link in between) if the chain has been over-shortened.

sold!

Selling on behalf of a friend who recently upgraded to something a little more special, this is based on a pretty nice old Raleigh frame that has been powder coated mid-grey, a few chips, plus some marks from being taped but finish pretty sound, original brass head badge, straight and no dents, relaxed geometry with mudguard eyes f&r (kinda path look). Ovalised down and seat tubes (by design not accident), reasonably light. Single bottle cage mount, but no other leftover braze-ons, only giveaway to conversion are the non-track rear drop-outs (horizontal). Chainline perfect.
51.5mm seat tube C-C, 56mm top tube C-C (hence short stem). English BB.
Rest of the spec...
Wheels: new On-One/Planet-X aero rims on sealed hubs (rear double fixed)
Tyres: new Rubinos
Cranks: Shimano 105 in the retro silver-grey finish, 170mm
BB: nearly new unbranded sealed, Shimano fitting tool reqd.
Chainring: Sugino 49T 3/32" nearly new, Sugino bolts
Sprocket: new Miche 3/32" 18T
Chain: new KMC-Z610 HX chrome
Headset: new unbranded 1" threaded
Stem: SR Custom 65mm
Bars: new unbranded flats, slight bend
Grips: new Gussett
Brake lever: new Tektro, other one included in case you want to go SS
Front brake: Shimano RX-100, new 105 blocks.
Seat post: System EX 25.8mm
Saddle: new Selle Italia XO Gel
Pedals, clips and straps included and all new but parentage unknown.

That's it... asking SOLD, viewing/collection SE1 or will post at cost (about £12?).

Clamp the pedal in a vice or workmate or other immovable holding device and turn the crank around the pedal, with something to extend leverage if necessary (large tube or similar).

Get some silver Shimano M-520's and a small tin of Nitromors varnish remover, put some on a rag and carefully rub over the logo on the pedal end - it's only stenciled paint, it will be off in a couple on mins, then just rinse the pedals under the tap and re-lube. Oh, and don't rub your eyes. Or look at some Crank Brothers Eggbeaters, but the cleats aren't SPD.

I've got one you can use if you can bring the fork/bits to SE1

I've got an M:Part Comp 1" threadless going spare/cheap, the plastic tub has been opened but it's unused, fiver collected from SE1 or SW11, PM if you want it - cheers, H

The best way to tell is to get a straight edge (steel rule, builders level) about 50cm long, take the chain off, run the straight edge along the front chainring as close to two adjacent crank spider arms as possible and see if it lines up with the sprocket - using this method with the Miche type BB (and much patience/use of crank puller/BB tool) you should be able to get it accurate to within fractions of a mm. That said, it looks pretty good so far, but could easily be +/- 1mm or more without being obvious. Like Rich said ^ your ears are a good guide too (assuming chainring, chain and sprocket are all in good nick, otherwise they will be noisy even if the chainline is spot on!).

Got a standard (non-Pro) Rubino humbug (black/white stripe) brand new unused £7, but it's a 25 in case that's a prob? cheers, H

Yeah, to be more specific, if the threads on the fork are good and you have greased them, the nut should go all the way down to the bearings without any need for tools - something's up somewhere!

you shouldn't need to apply a lot of force if the upper race is not yet near the bearings (in fact you shouldn't need to apply force even if it was as this would overload the bearing). Options include:
1) The thread on the forks is different to thread of the upper race
2) Thread on fork not clean or obstructed by swarf/rust/crap

If the old headset top race goes on/off without excess force (still - try it now) then it would suggest no.1. If the old top race gets stuck now it would suggest no.2.

Excess force should not be required, and indeed is likely to permanently damage an Ultegra top race since it is alloy.

Hey Roberto, see you've still got plenty of Record 1" threaded headsets on eBay, can you do a good deal on a couple for cash, I'll pick up from you? cheers, Hutch

I've got a set of Tacx T1025 Ecotrack Rollers, brand new in box, bought from a mate who never used them, box a bit tired but otherwise as new, £50? I'm in SE1 for collection (or can get them to SW11 if that's easier?).

Sorry petermason, sold 2 weeks ago, should have updated thread...

Edinburgh Cycles have a special on their own branded Revolution Tune Up Workstand for £49.95 - I've got a virtually identical one that didn't come from them and cost me about £60 2 years ago, I can highly recommend it and at this price it's one of the cheapest available. Looks same as the one in the Merlin Cycles deal, but that toolkit ain't worth £50.
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=5379&f_SortOrderID=1
They're also doing a tenner off the Specialized Air Tool Comp track pump, also one of the best I've ever seen/used:
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=6857&f_SupersetQRY=C252&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c003154c003146c003272

BTW, just bought an Elite from Wiggle too, until a coupla days ago it was half price at £75. It's better for big jobs where you need a lot of leverage on the frame like chasing/facing/fitting BB or headset as it is very rigid and holds the frame very firmly, downside is you have to remove one of the wheels, and it's not so convenient with track ends. The Revolution type one is a good all round bet and a great bargain, not quite so good for jobs like the above.

PM'd

Interested, PM'd