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Hey Rene, I PM'd you a while back about the alloy bar I had for you, still got it, still free/(beer), not dead straight but shiny and FREE! SE1

Got some new 3TTT 'Competizione' 44 outside to outside retro drop bars, shiny gunmetal finish, single cable groove. 20 mins to go on eBay item no 330282108284, or if you miss those BIN 330281315568. I'll post them cheaper than the listing suggests for you.

I've got a 65mm Belleri quill stem that is new other than having been on and off an unridden bike. It takes 25.4mm bars (i.e. MTB flats/risers, some Nitto, very old British drops). A fiver collected or £7 posted. It's a copy of Cinelli 1A but not polished as smooth (but it's shiny in its own way).

nice one, it's yours JOKER, I'll PM ya re. collection etc.

Bump (updated content)

Sold!

Nice pair of hand-built wheels comprising 32H Mavic Open Pro black rims laced radial front and 3-cross rear to polished silver Shimano 5600 hubs (8/9/10 spd) using black spokes. I don't know the make or type of spoke, the wheels were supplied by LBS as an insurance replacement for a long gone bike on which they were never used. They had a brief outing on my road bike before that got dismantled for a long-running makeover that is now heading towards fixedom so these are surplus to requirements. Very low miles - signs of light use on braking surfaces but no scoring or real wear. All stickers intact! Rim tape included, skewers available if required. Some free dust thrown in as well. £110 if collected (London SE1) or can post in a proper cardboard wheel box I have for £15 (UK!).

tonight!!? have you looked out of the window recently? I'm not taking an early bath for a coupla caps! Tomorrow sounds good, I'll txt you in the afternoon? cheers

hey Roberto, last of the big spenders here, can I grab a coupla Campag caps, one black one white, I can pick up pretty much any day that suits you down your way, let me know, cheers.

Good work Sharky, lookin' tidy. Glad it all worked out. Hope your efforts are appreciated!? Cheers H

I think you'd be right not to trust him, I just read it again and he's claiming 1.2kg for a steel frame and forks! He's 'avin a larf! I've never found a steel frame alone much under 1.4kg, and I know for a fact that those Moser steel forks come in at around 600-700gms depending on steerer length. The lightest Moser frame of that design I've seen is 1.8kg frame only. Joker.

Ah yes, but the key thing is that is a NEW as in just brazed up frame - it is a vital part of prepping any new frame to ream the seatpost and headtube, chase and face the BB shell etc. Basically this is brand new tubing and when it is all put together you get very minor fluctuations in the inside diameter from the heating and possibly oxide deposits from the heating, and the reaming is to take it back to its nominal size. He is taking virtually nothing off that, which is why it looks so easy. You would also ream after a respray or repairs, but again only to take off deposits that have been ADDED, or to get rid of rust patches or adhered lumps of old seat pin. It is NOT a process for squeezing your admittedly bling carbon Chorus pin into the wrong 'ole missus!

a tenth of a mil off a tube that is less than 1mm thick = rather too much IMHO...
seriously, as Teenslain says there are many decent 27.0 seat pins out there, go shopping/swapping.
I've got a crappy but new Kalloy black one I would rather give you than have you butcher your seat tube!

Is that a good idea? If it's a half-decent frame, the tubing isn't very thick and is generally using a particular sized seat post for good reason! I wouldn't... (though I do have a suitable reamer). Find a seat post that fits, I would.

check these out on t'bay - VERY nice, never even seen 24mm before:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Bicycle-track-alloy-racing-handlebars-NOS_W0QQitemZ160295643283QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160295643283&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1468|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I'll give you ONE 1mm spacer if that will help, any more than that and you're asking for trouble because there won't be enough threads for the lockring and you'll end up stripping the hub - that'll cost you even more than £9.99 or whatever it was. Ideally do what ^countrybiker says and use axle spacers and re-dish the wheel to suit. Or for that sort of money you can get a Miche BB which you can tweak the chainline a bit with, assuming your cranks are compatible. How far out is the chainline now?

Good question, not sure what relationship gearing has to chain wear, but I certainly wouldn't put chain before overall gearing ratio, it's more important to have the right gear! I run 48/18 on one bike and 46/17 on another, can't say I've noticed any chain wear differences, the overall gear inches is about the same give or take an inch, and 44/16 is not far off either. With any of those, you travel about the same distance for one turn of the cranks. If anything I would guess 48/18 is best because you have more chain wrap on the sprockets so less tug on individual links?

The other possibility is if the wheel bearings on the fixed side are failing - this could cause both noise AND uneven chain action - take the wheel off the bike and spin the axle by hand (well, finger/thumb to be precise) to see if you can detect any roughness. If there is any noticeable side to side play or obvious rattling it may be fncked. Depends on mileage and whether it has sealed bearings or not.

It's more likely that your chain has simply stretched unevenly, which is perfectly normal particularly when running fixed where you tend to put more stresses on the chain. It is more likely to stretch unevenly if it is a poor quality one too (don't ask - there's many a thread on chain choice). Once it has uneven wear, all you can do is make sure it is not over-tight where it is least stretched if you see what I mean. It's all too easy to get the tension right in one place and find it is then too tight in another which will cause accelerated wear of other components (as well as the chain) and make it feel rougher. The other area worth looking at is covered by patron saint of bike mechanics Sheldon B, relating to the fact that chainrings are not generally eccentric but can be off-centre on the crank spider causing uneven chain tension, and he outlines a detailed method of dealing with this. But, you can't really tackle that with a worn chain because of the rest of the stuff to do with uneven wear.

what about this:

Fresh paint - pearlescent white and plain powder blue (a bit darker in real world), chrome's all good, beautifully made and very light at 1.48kg (frame only), 47cm/52cm, £165. More pics here:
http://retrodicorsa.cc/Retro_di_Corsa/Frames/Pages/Gion_Italia.html

can't find it at Hubjub but Freshtripe sell 'em, the spec seems OK on paper but never seen one close up... should do the job OK, certainly has a nice retro-ish look.

could be, but then it's got that protruding seal on top, doesn't really hang with being squashed down with the old top nut thingy...

Er, your post is titled threadless but that things got a big nut on top... nut = THREAD if I'm not mistaken? If you're after threadED, then you can buy a Shimano 105 from Ribble (and 100 other places cheaper probably, don't all rush at once guys) for under £20 and they are really smooth and don't look bad.

no worries, take it easy

I've got a new 46T 3/32 Stronglight spare... oh, it's YOU! You're probably on your way round to pick up your free bars as I type?