Search results for:

you're most welcome mate:-)
i am sure you will recognise a much better bike after you do that operation.

I know what a lockring tool is, although I'm having trouble finding a 22 pin adjustable spanner anywhere. A link would be mucho appreciadado hombre.

didn't want to offend in any way about that lockring tool, sorry :-)

i think this one from chainreaction should do:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=17508

i missed that you will need alarge aperture adjustable spanner or a headset spanner like this one:

http://www.simpsoncycles.co.uk/product.php/1424/headset_spanner_30_32___36_40mm

to removve the drive side cup.

once you do that then spray a lot off penetrant like wd40 or plus gas onto the other undo first the lockring anticlockwise and then remove the cup using that 2 pin adjustable spanner again anticlockwise.

hope it helps :-)

you'll need a lockring tool (same as for the track lockring) and a 22 pin adjustable spanner

will do well in snow :-)

as far as i can see you got a standard rear flip flop hub which should cooperate well with any cranks/bb combination that gives 42mm chainline. i think whichever combination you pick up from the transmission database list here on the forum will do.

i am gonna give you a suggestion for a good value for money option that will work fine:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21848

plus the bb:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=22376

size 110 mm worrks with fsa chainset

if you can strech for a couple of quid more then instead of fsa bb buy a shimy un54 in 107mm size (put chainring in outer position) or 110mm size (chainring in inner position)

hope it helps

Pretty sure I measured everything properly. I just checked again - there is only about 13mm of clearance between the teeth of the current chainring and the chainstays. If I reduced to a 102mm spindle that would leave me with 3mm of clearance - is that enough?
Unfortunately I don't have a parts list as the parts are all no brand rubbish that it came with.

as the slots are very shallow on that freewheel i suggest to secure that tool tightly the axle nut before you start undoing it to avoid damaging the slots.

that unscrew means to unscrew the retaining plate which then allows for destructive removal. 22t, i now understand why you don't want destructive method. there are some spanners with two adjustable pins but i really doubt that can help as you tightened it very well by pedaling for quite long time

tomor mate, you are a true star! thank you so much for that. the frame is lovely.

.

cheers

Thanks for kind comments boys :-)
I didn't have another V-brake set when i built it but will find it if that's desired :-)

Thanks for that :-)
I just emailed him. I'll post up the outcome.
Cheers

Hi guys and gals,

As per title, I am trying to confirm to which brand this decal belongs?

I am quite convinced I saw it before sometime on some bike but really not sure. From the initials it could be carlton england or edison cycles or old evans cycles...

Any info appreciated

you'll probably end up cheaper if you remove that one destructively and buy a nice acs claw freewheel with 4 prongs (easy removal later on) to fit thereafter. currently claw is on sale at chainreaction for around 6 quid.

how about these?

http://www.lfgss.com/thread49703.html

Nice complete On One Pompino L (54cm)

Tech specification is here:

---

-On One Pompino L frame, 54cm seat tube C2T virtual top tube 55.5cm, On-One fork 1+1/8" threadless. Should suit 5'9" to 6' rider. (really nice condition, couple of very minor chips only)
-Sugino RD-2 crankset (excellent condition)
-FSA 46t 1/8 chainring (as new)
-Shimano UN-54 BB (as new)
-New KMC z510 1/8" chain
-Brand new wheels removed from stock specialized tricross (Alex ACE 19 double walled rims with eyelets, joy tech high flange hubs, flip flop rear with 17T fixed sprocket and 17t shimano freewheel, chain tensioners)
-New Specialized Haufflaze Cyclo Cross Tyres 700c32
-Shimano Acera front V-brake with good shoes/replaceable pads
-Tektro alloy brake lever (new)
-Kore stem
-Amoeba super strong risers (a few scratches on bars)
-Charge screw on bar grips (AKA car scratchers)
-DMR Violet Big Foot Pedals (a couple of scratches on them but still rock solid)
-On-One seatpost and saddle

---

Excellent bike. Cool looking and great to ride. Any kind of mod (drops, horns, different gear ratios, wheels and so on) can be done up to buyers preference and specification.

Set of mudguards and the rear rack offered free of charge with the bike.

£290 collected from Reading (easily and quickly reached from Paddington station), viewing/test rides welcome , can organize courier delivery nationwide or accept buyers couriers to collect the bike boxed and ready for shipping.

If interested please feel free to get in touch by PM

Only cheap SPDs still available :-)

No longer available for sale

if I was you 48:17 would be my choice for mostly flat areas with a few milder hills

i don't think you'll find standard thread freewheels in size smaller than 16t. smaller ones are usually made in half size thread as found on bmx. why not put a bigger chainring in front and solve the issue in an easier way :-)

no worries :-)

hi sorry sorted out thanks anyway

lenght, and particular model needed? pug used to install a few different ones.

PM will do :-)

yep... keen! how do i get in touch and come see it?

OCW gets another vote as a good source of parts for old school bikes and a bunch of friendly and knowledgeable people.

Another cheaper shop to consider if you need some small bits and pieces or just cheap parts for a banger bike is cycle king. I know it's a trashy place with some staff members not knowing very basic things, shop that sells shity 30kg heavy tractor-bike mutants but they do have some good cheap small bits. When i was going to oxford for work ( i live in reading) i used to buy chain halflinks for 80p each, single chainring bolts for 4 quid per pack of 5, cheap wienmann brake levers that were good and only costed 2 quid each, some nice and cheap brake cables, ferules and other bie mechanics consumables. they also did have some cheap tools that still haven't broken after a couple of years use.

Disclaimer: I am in no way associated or connected with either of the shops mentioned.

Sorry for the confusion again:-)
I have a bowery 08 black frame laying in my shed (called medium size by giant and recommended for riders 5ft 6 to 5ft11 , 51cm seat tube equivalent to 54cm due to slope top tube). If any good I can transfer all the stuff from langster to bowery.

thank fuck it's now too big for me. i've been looking at it thinking, how can i get this one in to the house?

It somehow feels smaller than 58 to me when i ride it. I guess that is something that supported my wrong size apprehension in this case.

Guys, sorry for a bit of confusion. I found on the specialized Website in 2006 archive that they classified this langster as 58cm size. There was no sticker on the frame so i made a wrong size statement by declaring the real measurement of a frame. I apologize for the mistake and kindly ask our mods to change size in the title if possible. Many thanks and sorry for the confusion once again.