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4’10!

I’ll need to check her other bike, the one in the flat has 160mm cranks and a seat height of 580mm, the Zwift bike minimum seat height is specced as 59.9cm and has 170mm cranks so I’m thinking it’ll be +/- 30mm too high.

I presume as well that with the Zwift bike you are tied into using Zwift in order for ’gears’ to work?

Zwift bike supposedly doesn’t go small enough for the missus.

I should check the saddle height actually.

Been a while since there’s been a post in here but I’m giving serious consideration to buying something like a Proton and wondered if anyone had one?

It’s a chunk of money considering I’m not into zwift or owt but I’m currently off the bike after breaking my thumb and having surgery to repair the ligament so been considering getting a (decent) turbo and Mrs m_v could use a bike as well if I went that route.

I dropped a bit of weight during lockdown as I was doing rollers a lot but haven’t kept it up, I imagine having a permanent set up that I could just jump on and go would encourage me to use it a lot more.

Don’t you have to buy the one for the specific crank you’re going to put it on so presumably they’ve already calibrated it?

#partiallyobscured

I’d do that, PayPal? I’ll pm you.

Fairy nuff.

How much posted to Glasgow?

It’s Halfords, if it’s a case of sending the whole kit back for replacement then a hunner percent some spotty teenage member of staff at some point along the line has squirrelled the usable ones away to either use themselves or punt on eBay.

Meanwhile there's wars going on and we haven't cured cancer...

Or figured out why Gary Barlow’s son is so huge.

Curiously, 26 x 2.8 WTB Rangers measure around 66-68mm from knob to knob according to Strids, which I'm guessing is based on 45mm WTB rims so probably even wider on a 50mm.

Could it not be narrower on a wider rim at the knobbly but sits flatter whereas on a narrower rim it’ll ‘lightbulb’?

Would take if you’d post (at my cost).

Need to leave a bit of extra or you’d be removing all the fillet.

Isopropyl Alcohol ... petrol
Lighter oil

If the lighter oil is in a lighter then you probably only need one of the other two ingredients and...

Might get a set of the Bear copies of the Paul dropouts and see how they'd fit but they are pretty pricey.

https://bearframesupplies.co.uk/deluxe-horizontal-dropout-steel/

I think I can get around this though by using a similar technicque as I did on the mini Honzo and putting a bit of tube laterally between the track end and seatstay.

If I'm cutting the chainstays at the front to do the yoke then a change in angle at the bb shell is easily accomodated.

I checked out the dropouts too.

One option would just be to open up the slot in the driveside forward facing horizontal dropouts currently fitted but I reckon I'd prefer a track end.

It wouldn't be too difficult to de-braze the current dropouts and fit track ends back into the slots in the stays. I'd lose a bit of length which is not an issue if I'm putting the yoke in anyway but what would be an issue would be the slot in the track ends being a bit higher than the current dropouts. This would slacken what I expect, given the frame's age, would be an already pretty slack geometry and perhaps more im portantly, would drop the bb slightly.

I think I'll chuck a Konga yoke in there rather than just chop the chainstays and braze in a bit of 3" tube like I did on the Raleigh Record Ace.

The paint is rough as a badger's arse but it's all structurally sound (not for long*) and the headset is the original Spesh one and running like butter.

*It's always a bit of a worry buying stuff with the intention to chop it up, never know if the seller will mind or not. Luckily this seller was cool with it actually suggesting I chop bits out the chainstays to add tyre clearance when he dropped it off and realised he'd seen my work at Brazin'.

First thing was to check was what the tyre clearance was like and, yeah, that ain't gonna chooch.

A 2.4" tyre has to be deflated to even fit in the frame, a 2.2" fits and spins but barely. A little mud and it'd all be over.

I’ve a bit of a hankering for a bit of simple retro steel ssmtb puppy slaying.

I was watching a few Konas on ebay but they are rarely big enough for me. There was a nice Raleigh Maverick on retrobike but despite saying in the 1st post that he'd be up for postage and then bumping the thread for 5 pages, the seller couldn't be bothered to get a box when I enquired about it so that fell through.

I then though about chucking the Paul cantis on my ss grav biek and set about doing that as a nice wee project on international singlespeed day (2nd Nov). It turned out that the Pauls have real small slots for adjusting the pad height and with the position of the wheel in the track ends it just wasn't going to work which was a bit of a bummer but I got the bike put together with Tektro cantis and a swept back bar I'd recently lacquered so it'll be a nice chill cruiser for when I can ride again.

As bummed as I was about the Pauls not fitting my grav bike, it really gave me an excuse to build a bike around them so I went back on the hunt and turned up a 1986 Rockhopper retrobike, from a much more accomodating seller this time. Postage was an option this time but I discovered the seller was located just north of Perth so a deal was done and I was going to see if I could collect the frame at some point but then he offered to bring it to Glasgow as he needed to go into the office anyway!

I mean, I’d poke fun but at this point it’s like posting triathlon bikes in anti porn.

Has your frame been faced?

Can't say as I've noticed the smaller ones being less rel,iable on either road or mtb cranks but I always face the frame as I have the tool.

The Head Doctor is pretty short so maybe they are worried about it exerting it’s force over too small an area.

We (Dad and I) had the chance a few years ago… actually a good few years now, of a massive lathe for free when the university department he worked for was moving from the out of town campus into the city centre but neither of us had anywhere to put it. He’s since built a new workshop but he’s primarily a woodworker so may have struggled to justify sacrificing the space even now and my workshop has no power. It’d have had all sorts of tooling with it too.

Gotta have chamfers!

The Brommie stem was, cut the top off, make a custom shim to reduce the od of the tube to 1 1/8”, pop a sealant on the top of it and you can clamp a bit of steerer tube in it and fit whatever stem you want. Means you can get more reach, choose between 22.2, 25.4 or 31.8mm bars etc.

I got a sheet of copper in the required thickness and annealed it and rolled it around a tube but it wasn’t the smoothest roll so it wasn’t slipping into the decapitated stem like it should so a spin on the lathe took it down Ande rounded it up and left a nice little lip to keep it in place too.