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On my current BMX I do have sealed cartridge bearings, but they are HUGE ones that fit over a 20mm hollow thru axle. I think they need to be of a hefty size to be of notably better performance and longer durability.

U running g sports or sumthin?

Been looking for a new rear hub and i like he look of the Suzue bmx ones (i ride freewheel) bu he open bearing ones are available in far nicer colours han the sealed ones, does anyone use the open bearing Suzues? Iv had open bearing hubs before, Shimano etc and they never really caused me much trouble.

How did you polish your post (fnarr!)? I've got an old Campag aero one that's a bit tarnished that I'd like to at least clean up, if not bring up to a mirror shine.

I used an abrasive block - kinda rubbery thing i found in my dads tool box, really fine wet n dry would prob do the trick - to scuff up the anodising then went in with autosol and the dremel with the white cottony type polishing head on. Took a wee while and i got bogging doing it but the end result is really nice.

Wonder if i could fake dyslexia! My dads dyslexic but as he is a uni lecturer i dont think he would be gettin owt for free, got a dyslexic cousin but her maw seems to think that admitting she has it would bring shame on the family or sum shit so she pretends she is jus thick instead!

Can you tell that i wanted you all to say PC?
Guess i really should go for a Mac though. :(

Given the rate that hardware becomes obsolete though, would i not be better getting a good pc for less money just now and upgrade to a good quality mac once iv done my course and am gainfully employed?

What tyres are they? their the fucking sex.

Having a fairly ok PC and a pretty new macbook (2.6ghz, osx 10.5)

I can say quite simply that PC is your best option.

CS3 works extremely well on any dual core processor compared to previous versions. Its plenty fast enough even on basic entry level machines which are all now like 2ghz dual core and above.

I would reccomend you get a PC with the best processor and the most amount of good fast ram that you can afford, this will work out a hell of a lot cheaper than PC, and youll get an extremely high spec, fast fast rig.

I think this is what im going to do, iv been reading some reviews of the Mac mini and they all seem to say that its pretty slow with a small hard drive and cant really be upgraded.
To buy a mini new would be around £500 for the faster version and for this money i think i could get my mate to build me a much faster pc and get some software for it.

Well i already have a semi decent screen, a keyboard (the t doesnt always work right enough so maybe need a new one) and a mouse so the qoute was just for the unit. He hadnt included any graphics card i think as i said im not really into games and iv been told that for photo stuff you dont really need one. He had looked up all the stuff on ebuyer, im a bit thick with computers you see.

Starting my photography course next week and iv been thinking for a while i need a new computer so with loans etc coming it seems a good time.
But should i go for a Mac or a PC? Most of the photography industry seems to be Mac equiped but given that my budget is not exactly limitless should i get a mediocre Mac or build top spec pc?
One of my mates has quoted me prices of between £200 for an alright pc and £400 for one that'll blaze. Comparing that to Mac prices it seems like the amazing pc is going to be about half the price of an okish Mac.
The college has Macs so i can learn to use them there and i beleive i could run Mac operating software on a pc if its got enough memory?
It jus seems like if i get a Mac im shelling out hundreds and hundreds of pounds that would maybe be better spent on equipment like lenses, a printer etc.

Glad i saved you the effort/expense and btw your animation is 100 x better than my shitty paint drawing.
I was thinking about this a bit more though and came up with a few things, Would it be possible to make a double sided freecoaster hub? Freecoasters are a clutch mechanism rather than a ratchet and they eliminate the problem of the wheel/freewheel centre driving the chain and cranks. Primarily used for bmx stunts so that you can roll back with the cranks held still but seeing as the left hand drivetrain is effectively running in reverse it might work.
Also, i remember seeing an old school bmx freewheel on ebay that had a button on it which turned it from a standard freewheel into a freecoaster somehow. Or possibly it just shut off the ratchet mechanism so that itd coast but you would get no drive from it.
I think the button was on the face of the freewheel where itd normally carry the branding ie dicta acs etc. No idea how it worked but if it could be rigged up to have the button activated via cable from a handlebar mounted lever etc.
Or just run two of them in freecoaster mode on either side of a flip flop hub thus creating the above mentioned dual sided coaster.

Sorry, i dint mean to be defeatist. I could be wrong.

I had a shimano coaster on a kona humu humu and it always seemed to me like it had a load of drag, anyone know if these are any different?

Absolutely 100% WILL NOT WORK.
Take a piece of paper and draw a simple representation of a freewheel like this:

or print mine

Now, hold your paper up so that the drawing is on the right hand side of the paper, representing a "normal" right hand drive freewheel and notice how the outer bit with the teeth which is driven by the chain engages the pawls on the inner part and drives the hub/wheel.
Now flip the paper around to represent the left hand freewheel and you will notice that the inner part with the pawls will drive the outer part with the teeth and in turn the chain and cranks. Neither side of this system will ever freewheel, when you pedal forward on the right side crank/chainring you drive the right side rear cog which turns the hub which turns the left side rear cog wich turns the left side crank. Unless the same gears are ran on both sides as soon as you move the bike the two cranks and the two sides of your hub will be trying to move at different speeds.
Sorry if iv repeated myself there but its hard to explain.

Also, the bike seeems to have a 1" threaded fork/stem in a 1 1/8" integrated headtube. - dumpster bike fo sho.

I suggest similar treatment as was dished out to markyyy the "hardcore ebayer", i have started it off with:

Dear velorution,
I really like the bike in the first photograph on your website, the one with the very dapper Danish gent. Do you sell this bicycle?[/FONT]
I am looking for a bike which will set me apart from the usual “fixie” riders with their pristine bikes and front brakes. The patina of chipped and mismatched paint on this bike is so chic and the broken mudguard and lack of grips adds to the authenticity. Does the bike come like this as standard or do I get to choose the different colours and how distressed I want it to look?
Thanks, velo-fan!

Can you not take the freehub off like this...
I've just bought a rear specialized tri spoke and want to convert it to a front wheel or a fixed but haven't recieved it yet and I dunno what hub it's got.

Does anyone know what hub it's likely to be?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230278801661&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=013

If you have a wheel with a freehub body like this and you remove the freehub body then the right hand bearings and race come off with it leaving the hub/wheel useless.
However, if someone who is handy in a machine shop could make a piece to fit over the splines on the hub body (doesnt need to engage the splines) and act as a bearing carrier (possibly bolt it on with the original 10mm allen key bolt - most right hand piece in the diagram) then the wheel could be respaced and used as a front.
It may even be possiblt to cut down a freehub body to do his job.
Also, aren't the hubs splined and bonded to the rest of the wheel? Take 1 good condition rear cassette wheel - remove hub and keep rest of wheel - find fucked track/front wheel on ebay (seen a few with split/damaged rims, buckles etc) - remove hub and bond into rest of wheel from before = one good cheap? front wheel.

Has anyone else noticed that the bike being held by the butt ferret on the velorution site has no grips and the spokes for the mudguard on the side closest to the camera are dangling uselessly from the fork. Also the rear of the bike is handily hidden, i wouldn't be surprised at all if there was a coaster brake hiding there.

Miche primato seat post for muchos cheapos, looks like it needs a bit of spit and shine, id probably go for it had i not spent like 5 hours mirror polishing a dura ace post i bought in similar nick last week.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Miche-PR1MATO-27-2-Alloy-stem-bargain_W0QQitemZ320290432633QQihZ011QQcategoryZ22693QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

have you not read the comments in the other thread m8?

i think the general view is that its not porn.. not without a few changes anyway

was that about the bike i posted? dunno what happened to the pic?

Not sure about brakeless/flat pedal but still rather nice

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2008/aug/4/PieterG.B.vanderWel.htm

so close yet so far

shoot him, in the back, when he is off duty. walk up behind him on the street, put the gun a few inches from the base of his scull, pull trigger. shows your hard.

Actually... seeing as he obv had it in mind that he was gonna try it on with your missus, he probably told his missus he was off down the gym/pub/donut shop so noone but your gf, him and you know he was at your house so if you off him you shouldnt crop up as a suspect.

Surely if you do anything criminal then you and your gf are just gonna end up gettin a double load of hassle from the OB. You would have to either do something so anonymous that he wouldnt suspect you ( "pig scum" painted on his garage doors if you know where he lives) or go so open that he daren't come after you (talk to a tabloid newspaper: "top cop turns sleaze" type story).
Or befriend him, get him out to a dodgy strip bar or somewhere similar that a cop wouldnt want to fess up to having been and just suddenly turn from his new best mate into the guy that just bottled him!

Ex halfords employee here, and i know im resurrecting an old thread but reckoned it might be worth it.
Theres a few ways for you to get your bike via Halfords through the b2w scheme, 1. the bikes in the store (mostly shite) and usually anything from these manufacturers (still usually shite) are available as stocked lines (a particular store might not be ranged for a particular model but they should be able to get it) 2. Special order from a distributor that they have an account with, such as fisher, madison, dawes, id (for surly), chicken etc. but for this you will need to speak to someone who knows how to do the order process and depending on the efficiency of the staff member you could have a long wait 3. Speak to someone at the b2w team, you call halfords business services then option 2, i think the number is sumthin like 0870 660 511? it should be on paperwork to do with the shceme. You tell them what bike you're looking for what size etc and they will source it and get it sent to your nearest branch. They can get bikes/brands that halfords otherwise has no dealing with, specialized, bianchi etc. They will also organise custom bikes from the likes of Merlin and Ribble.
With options 2 and 3 you need to know what you are ordering and get it right coz itll be non returnable if you say order a 58cm frame then realise you need a 56cm.
Also id advise going to a small/quiet store, if you walk in with a £1k voucher they will do what they can to get you to spend it there like ordering you just a frame rather than a full bike, a larger busier store may be less helpful. According to the official rules you're meant to buy a bike but the store will want the sale.
Oh and make sure you get it left in the box and build it yourself as 99% of halfords staff would know one end of an allen key from tother.