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Surly Lowside? State Klunker? There’s probably a wheelie bike that ticks the three boxes if not much else.

Just a heads up, if buyer paid with PayPal, they have 180 day buyer protection so could chase a refund through that.

Cheers all.

I did a bit more googling and discovered there’s an 8, 9 & 10 speed Ene thumby which has the old school ribbed edge lever and then an 11 speed which looks like the much hailed bar end shifter and although it’s slightly more expensive its (generally) about half to two thirds the price of the bar end version for some reason.

My current drivetrain is all 10 speed link glide and it’s really unclear how compatible that is with anything other than link glide so I kinda fancy just getting a friction shifter regardless of my thumb so that I don’t have to worry about that stuff.

Also, I know the Dia Compe Uno is meant to be the bees knees of bar end friction shifters, does anyone know if the much cheaper Ene thumb shifter is as good?

I’ve had a ligament repair surgery on my right thumb and am worried that I won’t be able to push the up shift lever on the rapid fire type shifter that’s currently on my fbnpna Spa Rove so I’m considering either converting it to drop bars or just swapping the shifter for something that I can shift with fingers or a combo of fingers and thumb rather than just thumb.

I previously had a microshift 10 speed thumby so could get another of those but I’m tempted by the chat of the nicer ‘feel’ of the Dia Compe shifters.

A thumb shifter would also give me the option to fit it under the bar on the left side and I can control it with fully working hand.

Mechanical brake and gear drop bar brifter that’ll work with a clutch/large capacity rear mech, an I onto plums with that combo?

Given the retail price for couplers, salvaging them even just to sell on would likely be a rewarding endeavour.

Rubber mallet will be no good at providing the shock required to break the corrosion bond, I'd try a bit of wood on the end of the axle and a sharp tap with a metal hammer.

Yeah it’s for normal canti/v studs.

@Valanidi give @nomoreknees till the morning to confirm if they want it and if not our one y heard anything, all yours?

Do they have wing mirrors? Would have thought cameras and screens.

Few more photos.

This is now a bit surplus to requirement so looking to move it in.

I have modified the frame to circumvent the Raleigh peculiarities. This involved trimming and facing the 1” headtube so it could take a normal headset (the one fitted is a Cane Creek), trimming the bb shell to 68mm and recutting the thread from 26tpi to the much more common 24tpi. Any bsa thread bb will now fit, I’ve used it with square taper and ht2. I’ve also added canti bosses, positioned for the etrto 406 wheels plus a few cable guides including the single sided cable stop for the cantis. UK Twenties were specced with 451 wheels but American ones tended to come with 406 wheels. The smaller wheels do drop the bb height available little but I haven’t really found it a problem. It might be if you wanted to run the bike fixed.

There’s also a brazed on anchor point for a coaster brake torque arm and bottle cage bosses on the top tube.

Rear spacing is 120mm.

The fork and stem are custom made. 1” steerer, the stem has a long extension, I can’t remember exactly, 130 or 140mm, maybe even 150mm. I did this just to stretch the bike out a little in order to accommodate my 6’2” height which it does comfortably. So comfortably I was able to ride the 84 miles of Etape Caledonia on it.

The mudguards fitted are mismatched, the beige one is the original but the front was corroded so I bought the purple ones and fitted the front but didn’t change rear as I’d stickered it up. Will include the purple rear. The front has a leather flap fitted, GB maybe?

Wheels are Sun CR18 rims on a DT Swiss front hub and a Sturmey/Brompton BSR 3 speed rear.

Everything is showing a little ‘patina’, I just lacquered the bits of the frame that I worked on and that doesn’t keep the rust at bay for long. The cr18 rims didn’t stay shiny for long but I’m sure they could be polished up again.

Also included is the extra long seatpost and the aluminium frame pump.

If you were to commission me to make just the fork and stem I’d be charging you in the region of £300, the mods on the frame would be another £150+.

I’m only asking £200 posted for the frame, fork, stem, headset, wheels (plus tyres etc) pump and seatpost.

Bought this at least a year ago as fully working but when it arrived it pulling the lever did nothing to the pads. I meant to bleed it and put it to use but here we are and I’ve yet to do it.

It all looks in very good condition so can’t imagine it needs anything more than bleeding.

190cm of hose, lever is flippable so could be used as a front or rear. Booster and all the bolts etc are all there.

£20 posted.

I mean, if it’s Glasgow then I’m the sheriff!

I want to be safe though.

Hadn’t thought about 28” tubs, had only really looked at 27” clinchers. I’ll have a look and see what’s available.

Edit: thought you meant that 28” tubs were a different thing to 700c tubs. Or, to be clear, 622 tubs.

Then it will be fine with 700C clincher or 28" tubulars

"fine" for steep banked track use where bb height is very important? I have some nice TA cranks which I think will suit it but they are 170mm making then bb height even more important.

My colleague has a Flying Scot he uses on the track and I think it's a similar age and maybe also designed for 27s but running 700s.

I do intend to chuck my track wheels on it and see what the bb height is like once I'm back at work. I don't have any 23mm tyres at home or I would have done so already.

Hope it’s ok to discuss a 1951 bike in here.

I bought this ‘track’* frameset on here and had intended to use it on the velodrome but the discovery that it fits 27” wheels has probably put paid to that (as there are no 27” tyres available that will work on a steel banked indoor wooden track) so I’m wondering about using it for some time trialling.

*it’s really I think more of a path/track having braze ons for a rear brake callipers and cable and a frame pump. I’d have had to remove these to use it on the velodrome so perhaps it’s not such a bad thing that this doesn’t happen.

As I understand it, racing on roads was really in its infancy in the 50s, having been banned since the 1800s and I can’t see any sort of specialised tt equipment (handlebars) in photos of the time. How long would it have been before special tt bars became common?

Track ends only look better because that’s what you’ve been conditioned to think.

The straps attaching the bag are sitting loose as a wizards sleeve, pretty sure tightening them properly would lift it off the tyre a bit. The straps for the bag closure would likely still be uncomfortably close to the wheel though.

A couple of low light blurry yins from the Harinezumi.

The cables moving the derailleurs is a small part of shifting, ramps and pins on chainrings and sprockets is a pretty big bit of it so if everything is worn it’ll have a huge impact on shifting.

That's really good to hear, cheers.

Nice, I sometimes feel I'm being a bit lazy modding things instead of building from scratch but then I remember that building from scratch was never actually my intention and I just kind of fell into doing it as it's sort of the 'usual' way to go.

Managed to use the angle grinder and torch to start the mods on the rockhopper frame today.

Chopped the chainstays behind the bb and debrazed the dropouts from the seat stays.

Also debrazed the gear cable routing from the downtube and bb shell and the brake cable guides from along the top tube as I will replace this with a cable stop at each end like the Stumpy of that era had.

I won a slingshot stem on eBay for this so have fitted that along with a riser bar made from the top of a bmx bar. I’ve just chopped the loop of the bottom of this bit of bar and filled the crudely punched vent holes with brass and filed smooth.

It’s only something like 760mm wide, will see how I get on with that and could extend it if needed.

Have been seeing this on Insta quite a bit, didn’t realise you were ‘on here’.

Bike is fantastic, love the fork. Rear light mounted with the front is intriguing, you happy with how it works?

Feel like a dropper is a luxury I should totally be able to live without but now that I've gone there, it's hard to go back.

I could definitly live without 200mm of drop though.

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