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You should be able to run the cables underneath the bar tape if it's an issue, indexing might not work so well with all the bends but friction would be fine.

Properly setup cantilever brakes are as powerful as v-brakes with better modulation but it's much trickier to set them up then keep them running well as pads wear and cables stretch.

I only use cantilevers on my race bike where it sees lots of mud, otherwise I'd go for mini Vs or full length Vs.

Believe it or not that drivetrain is a mere week old. Soon to be completed with a Soma Porteur rack.

Right, going to leave the remainder of the stuff valued under £5 in a box outside my flat in a few hours. I'll put it behind the wall so it should be there for a while. If you're feeling generous feel free to donate to my hardship fund (just leave it in the box and hopefully no-one will pilfer it).

Within the box is some Avid Shorty 6 brake arms, a 25.0mm seatpost (possibly non-matching clamps), oddysey mono lever, a Garmin 200 with a smashed screen, those pedals, some cogs and lockrings, that looong 3t stem, a 28.6mm braze-on adapter, a few chainrings and a bashguard and an adjustable straddle cable.

PMed regarding 105 rear mech.

Just built up a Cross Check in the same, ride on/off road, anywhere, vein: Deore groupset, 44/32/22 crankset, 11-28t 8 speed cassette, bar end shifters working on friction, v-brakes (with compatable Tektro levers), drops and 40mm semi-slicks.

I'll get a photo this weekend.

I have lost a Rapha deep winter hat somewhere in the midst of London, I realise the chances of it being discovered are pretty minimal but thought it'd be worth a shout.

yup, I reckon the plan will be to go for bar end shifters then switch to retroshift if I don't get along with them. I tend to ride in the drops a fair amount off-road anyway, and flipping the stem will lift my bars aiding matters. Not going to be pretty, but hopefully a bit more reliable.

Anyone have any experience with bar end shifters, kelly take offs or those retroshift things in race situations?

Running a typical 10 speed drive train this year has proved costly and unreliable without a pit bike. I run 8 speed on my road bike (down-tube shifters) and my cross check (bar-end shifters) and can deal with gaps in the cassette okay, it's just the shifting which concerns me.

A few bits added. Everything was posted out on saturday, so should be with you in the next few days.

Bent derailleur hanger for me, not a great start to the end of the season but my first DNF, so overall, not bad. It'll teach me not to try and ride mud sections I should have been running I guess.

Seeing as this isn't a thing I plan to do too often, does anyone have a derailleur alignment tool I could borrow? Happy to collect from most of London.

Thanks

Jon.

Black left.

Odyssey is indeed a mono, pedals are mountain bike (M515).

Photos to those requested in a few hours.

Any messengers in London using Strava during work?

A few days recorded in September and October here.

Here you go, http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/surly-crosscheck-58cm-black-10, bargain.

Sorry, Cross Check is no longer for sale. It's going to be repurposed into something a bit different. There was a complete cross check knocking about on the internet for £200 a few days ago, I'll see if I can find the link.

Mini Vs may be for sale, though I'm waiting on a spare part to come from TRP in America.

I'll update the thread now.

3ttt “The Four” Stem. 135 mm long, 31.8mm clamp. One tiny mark to finish. £3.

TRP Cantilever Straddle Adjuster. Front and rear, in packaging. £3.

2 x bash guards. One black (185mm diameter, to cover a 42t chainring) and one silver (175mm diameter, to cover a 39t chainring). Both 130mm BCD. £3 each. Silver sold

Shimano 105 braze-on front derailleur. Bit grubby, Missing braze-on bolt. £5. sold

Truvativ Elita crankset and bottom bracket. 48/34t with some wear to the big ring, bottom bracket could be smoother. 130 mm BCD. £7. sold

Shimano 36t chainrings. 10 speed. Big ring is a little worn. 110 mm bcd. £3.

Unbranded 39t chainring. Grubby, but teeth look ok. 130 mm BCD. £4.

Shimano 53t chainring, probably 9 speed. From Dura Ace 4700 chainset. Not much usage. 130 mm BCD. £10.

Odyssey bmx lever. Loads of scratches, still works I expect. £2. sold pending payment

Dirt Harry lever. Missing clamp bolt, but decent condition. £2. sold

3 x pairs of Shimano SPD pedals. No cleats. £2 per pair.

Shimano 600 pedals with cages but no straps, mismatched cage bolts. £3. sold

Shimano downtube braze-on adjusters. Brand new but unpackaged. £5.

Fixed cogs.
DA 18t, 1/8th. Decent condition. £5. sold
Unbranded holey 16t, 1 1/8th. Decent condtion. £3. sold
Unbranded black 18t, 1 1/8th. Decent condition. £2.
Condor 16t, 1 1/8th. Pretty worn. £1.
DA 14t, 3/32th. Little wear. £5.
Unbranded silver 16t, 3/32th. Little wear. £2.

Lockrings.
DA. Good condition. £4. sold pending payment
3 x unbranded. Free with a cog or 50p each.

Collection from N16, or I'll cost at cost. Photos on request.

Does seem as though Avid were trying to encourage the use of every Allen (and some Torx) keys available with the Ultimates.

It's a 1.5mm and the grub screws are made of jelly - I ended up replacing mine with swisstop brake shoes. Which helpfully have a nice simple way of removing brake shoes...

that'd make sense, the one size I'm missing from my set.

I haven't been using an SD card, but, in good news, it seems if I do use a memory card I can access that so at least I can download routes to the card and follow those. Probably won't be able to upload anything back to the computer but at least it's semi-usable now.

Anyone happen to know the size of allen key required to remove the grub screw from Avid Shorty Ultimate's brake shoes? Seems smaller than anything I own.

Tried that but no luck either. Seems I can view the device when on Disk Manager, but it doesn't see any volume attached, so I can't format.

I have a 705 that has suddenly decided to fail to connect to my laptop. When plugged into the computer it starts to look for satellites, I can force it into the connection mode by holding the power key down, or the joystick up when plugging it in, but it's still not visible on my computer. Very occasionally it appears as a unnamed drive using this trick, but I can't format it without the computer freezing or the Garmin disconnecting. Tried a variety of USB leads but still no luck.

Second GPS to break in a month, I probably shouldn't buy these things used. I fear the only solution may be a refurbished unit from Garmin.