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I rate Specialized tubeless tyres. Used a combo of the Tracers and the Terras last season with no punctures and only one burp despite low pressures.

Tracers are a good all-rounder, though will pack up if you hit proper mud.

WTB Cross Boss are great for riding/training on more technical terrain as well, with more volume than standard cross bikes. Durability a bit suspect though.

Be aware that tyres don't always make the sound either. Visual check to make sure the tyre is seated evenly is enough too, there's usually a line just above the rim.

Did think about doing it myself, but given my history with such projects it'll probably be cheaper to pay someone to do it, in the long run.

It's 15mm x 40mm (I'm making it a bit longer than the one above to increase surface area). Stainless steel 3mm thick should be strong enough. Holes are for M8 bolts, so 9mm diameter, and centre to centre between bolts is 16mm.

who can machine me a few washers? dead simple, just need something that won't bend under lots of torque.

same as these, but without the $60 shipping charge for a 90 cents part.

Also, 1 1/8th Chris King O-rings - are they all the same? I've borked the cap o-ring on my inset headset and it seems to be creaking without it so it's probably an essential part i should replace.

My Middleburns creaked incessantly. I'd remove all bolts, clean and regrease everything, put it back together and it'd be quiet for 5 minutes then it'd start again. Not really a fan of that pre-load collar system either.

I switched to Shimano XT. Proprietary BCD is a bit of a pain but Shimano narrow wide chainrings are readily available from 30-34t, and reasonably priced. New(er) SLX look good too.

8 hours on the bike yesterday in preparation for this.

Did not feel great for the last hour, but okay this morning, that might be the coffee talking though. Probably means I need to eat (and drink) more on the bike.

Six hour race at Bedgebury next week, then Big Dog, then this.

Rode the Ridgeway East to West yesterday. 7 hours one-way with a few stops for water, and I couldn't have turned around and done the same again. That double record is quick!

Just the right hand needed. Thanks.

I'm out for now. Somehow managed to forget how terrible the GBP is.

Nice! I need to take some paint off my Swiss Cross and see if it's cracked, might be tempted should that be the case.

How long is the steerer on the p2?

they're not painted, but they might be smooth. Maybe I'll get some sandpaper on the surfaces next time it's apart.

My Paragon sliders keep creeping forward. Not loads, but enough that I have to keep adjusting my chain after every ride and I dropped a chain racing last week.

I've already upgraded the bolts to chunky ti hex numbers, which I'm doing up pretty tight. Would carbon paste be a bad idea?

I'm sure it's not technically recommended, but it does work in my experience

The CX70s come with different lengths of spacer, so actually technically recommended.

Shimano tech doc here has a table showing which spacer correlates to which rim width and boss spacing.

To be fair I've no experience with the tubeless compatible A23, and I didn't bother building the rim bed up with multiple layers of tape, so it might work.

The wheels are now going to spend 24 hours at 100 PSI as is, in order for the tape to adhere fully

You're probably better off doing this with a tube in the tyre. I'm not sure air alone will do much to help. Might be wrong though.

Anyone know of a source for thumb screws for toolless trackend adjustment? I need m2x50mm.

Surly sells the screws for their tuggnuts seperately, but I can't find specs anywhere.

On the wheel front I'd for those dirt cheap WTB i25's rims from Planet X and lace them to SLX hubs (to match the rest of the groupset). I've had 30,000km in all weather on a pair of those with not even a bearing change.

With Sapim Race spokes that'll come to around £100.

That Alpkit bag does not look all that stable to me, get the feeling it'd do a fair amount of flopping around off-road.

Using two zip ties or thinner straps would be an option: one below and one above the stem. Should be as secure, if not more secure, than a single large strap.

I'm out: great hubs, good price, too many unnecessary purchases lately.

Anyone know of one of those fuel pod, top tube snack dispensing things that work well with a slammed stem?

how much for hubs minus cassette?

It'd have to be a very stubborn tyre/rim combination to need 160 psi. I've yet to fail to fit a tyre with a maximum of 60 psi in a bottle.

If it's high-volume tubeless tyres I've found you can get away with a high -volume track pump. Road and cross you sometimes need to get a bit more creative with.

My only experience with running non-tubeless rims tubeless was with the old A23's. They worked okay but I couldn't run lower pressures (<30 psi) without burping issues. Wouldn't race them.

That's the plan. Nice low gear should prevent going off at the start too hard: slow and steady all the way.