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Still after all this... fork needed primarily.

Looks rad, but tape your bars better!

meh, what's wrong with it (beyond missing that bit under the levers which seems superfluous to me)?

thirds.

Cross Check is just about done for now though I'm thinking about a low-trail fork and a lightweight rear rack for spring/summer overnight adventures.

I feel like I might as well as go custom for an extra £100 and go for a full 70-80mm offset which will give me 40-30mm trail (with 35mm tyres and my current head tube angle). It also has the advantage I won't be shortening the fork and adjusting the rest of the geometry at all. I need forward facing eyelets for my rack too, which the Thorn doesn't have.

Electra were selling a cheap ($50 on sale) 80mm offset fork, with a variety of options. All sold out now with no plans to produce any more. Would have been a cheaper way to experiment.

Put the cable under your bartape, (option B) that is how is supposed to be done.

Bar end shifters are actually designed to run under the bar tape for a short length along the bottom of the drop.

Not to be run all the way along the bars (you'll probably find the outer supplied isn't long enough for this). You can probably get away with it (definitely with friction) but shifting won't be as crisp.

I run mine with the outers completely outside of the bar tape, makes little difference to me and I can change cables without removing tape. When I've got a bag or stuff on my rack the cables just tend to get pushed out of the way.

Not specifically for you, I can see the difference in purpose between the Oak and this.

In more general terms it seems low-trail geometry is pretty easily replicated by increasing fork offset so I was considering getting a second fork built for my Cross Check. Admittedly a custom fork would cost more than I paid for both frame and fork.

Any reason something similar to the National Explorer couldn't be replicated with a custom fork?

probably won't be able to make it down till the weekend so if you want rid quick I'm happy to forfeit my place in the queue to TS.

second in line, can collect today...

Half way through todays ride, my Strava dropped signal and tried to upload the ride - resulting in me having 2 strava activities for the same ride. Is there any easy way to link them together?

GPSvisualizer.com can do this. "Convert a file" and upload the two files, then download as a single gpx file.

Who, in London, will re-rake my fork to make it more front-load happy, and at what cost?

The BBC delay putting programs on iPlayer now? Says it'll not be available till Thursday.

STLOEN OMNIUM CARGO BIKE

From outside the Southampton Arms, NW5 at 1700hrs 16.02.14

All black with Thomson finishing kit and Regal saddle

Please contact Control Couriers with any info

Reward offered

Thanks

But with mudguards and a rear rack.

There's still stuff there; pedals, a few cogs, a bash guard. Thanks for the few pounds someone left...

Very little use on both of these (less than 10 hours riding time). Some marks on the bars around the stem clamp but barely noticeable. £25 the pair.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-comp-4-axis-black-stem/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-comp-logic-curve-road-handlebar/

Collection n16.

Selling a pair (i.e front and rear) of Avid Shorty Ultimates shortly. No brake pads and could do with straddle cables being replaced (they use standard road cables for these). To give an idea of usage they've just worn through the original pads. A few marks but nothing serious, got some spare grub screws for the carrier I can throw in too (these are liable to rounding).

£60 seem fair?

2nd/3rd dibs on those mudguards please.

Anything I can do about battery drain or is it pretty much a matter of put up with it or replace?

In my personal experience I've always been able to cross-chain a 10 speed setup with less noise than a 8 speed, no scientific backing to my thoughts though...

Change of heart, I'm going to go for retroshift. Will be ordering in the next few days if anyone want to go in on postage ($15), though ordering in bulk will increase our chances of getting stung for import duty...

gear-calculator.com has led to something of an obsession with comparing gearing. I'm going to run a 12-25t 8 speed cassette with 34-44t chainrings. This should give me the same range (and pretty similar jumps) as a typical 10 speed cross setup: 12-28t with 38-44t chainrings.

Other question is, why specifically 10 speed? why not 9 or even 8?

If you're running a single chainring and want a decent range the gaps in your cassette are going to start to get pretty big with 8 or 9 speed. I think 8 speed setups are generally less tolerant of cross-chaining too.

I'm "downgrading" to 8 speed on my cross bike but wouldn't want to do it without a double chainset.

Big fan of Chris Igleheart's bike:

screenshot from: http://vimeo.com/80866123

Cowbells are measured at the hoods I believe.

Still there last time I looked. Also adding a few STI shifters and 10 speed cassettes (to the ad, not the box).