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After thinking pretty hard about going 1x10 a while ago I decided against it.
Couple of reasons; firstly my cross bike has roles outsides of racing, so a wider gear range without big jumps is helpful.
Secondly, being able to drop from the big ring to the granny is much, much easier than trying to jump 4 or 5 gears across a muddy, gummed up cassette. This is particularly handy when approaching a steep hill or a long mud section for example.
Finally, if you're having issues with your rear mech or cassette you've at least got another gear to go to. Today at Welwyn my chain was skipping and jumping around on the lower gears on the cassette (probably due to cable stretch from a new, cheap cable) but I was still able to ride the vast majority of the course by shifting on the front much more than I usually would.
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After a replacement for my threaded setup on the road bike. I've had enough of continual headset adjustments.
Looking for a 1", 25.8mm, 100-120mm stem, 1" threadless headset and a fork. Fork needs around 40-45mm rake and not too much brake drop. The bike has a 160mm headtube, so I'd guess I'd need around 230mm of steerer at a minimum.
Thanks!
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Wet red finish on all this stuff. I'm sure this could be removed and repainted black or whatever colour to match your frame.
Ritchey WCS Logic II handlebars. Some of the finish has flaked of around the clamp, and there are a few chips in other areas. I make these 42cm centre to centre, 44cm edge to edge. Weighs 260 grams. Selling on CRC at £51. £20 here.
Ritchey WCS C260 Stem. Good Condition. Weighs 110 grams. On CRC at £68. £30.
Ritchey WCS 1-Bolt Seatpost. 27.2mm diameter, 300mm length and 20mm setback. A few marks towards the bottom of the post. Weight of 203 grams. £72 at CRC, £30 here.
£70 for the lot.
Collection from N16 or WC1.
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Can you see the photo in the first post? I'd guess it's had about 1000km usage, some of that in muddy conditions. I believe chainrings can generally be used till the chain starts skipping on them without any loss of functionality or damage to the rest of your drivetrain. I usually replace them when the teeth start to look like shark fins.
and regarding a photo of the forks on a bike, here's a bad one:

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The unfortunate coming together of a tax bill and someone sticking a Ritchey cross bike on eBay means I am in need of money, therefore I am getting rid of the following:
56cm Surly Cross Check frame and fork
Now unavailable.
Black Rainbow Project messenger bag
SOLD
1" Threaded Wound Up Forks
SOLD
Crud RoadRacer mudguards
SOLD
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Ah, that's a shame. Looks like I'll only be able to make two more races of this season then.
I raced yesterday too, the last few courses have suited me a little better than Footscray but for the first time I was gridded. However I managed to slide out on the first muddy section, effectively taking me back to my normal rearwards positioning. Seemed to be making up time on the uphill singletrack and in the mud then losing it again on the bumpy flats where more power was needed. Finished with what is becoming my standard positioning, just outside the top 10.
Intend to take next season a little more seriously and race for points. Maybe I'll finally invest in a tubular wheelset too.
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My MacBook is very much on the way out and I'm looking for a non-Apple replacement.
I'm largely just an internet user and I don't want to spend a large amount so I'm looking at either a new Chromebook (probably the HP 11", although it appears to be withdrawn from sale at the moment due to power supply issues) or a low end, second-hand ThinkPad. I'm guessing eBay is a bit of a mine field for buying second hand computers and it's better to stick to refurbished laptops from more reputable sources/websites?
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Planning on going 1x10 as I never shift on the front when racing and the rest of the time the bikes a town bike, so I don't need any big gears.
An XT rear mech, 38t chainring and a 11-30t cassette should provide almost the same range as I currently have with 34/44t chainrings and a 11-28t cassette, though obviously with bigger jumps but I think I can deal with that.
I'd like to try out these wide narrow chainrings but unfortunately I am a Shimano devotee and all their clutch rear mechs are not compatible with STI shifters. Therefore I am left with chain retention options of either a Pauls Chain Keeper (light and simple but will probably clog and feed the chain with mud in much the same way as a front derailleur) or dog fang chain catcher and chain guard (cheaper and heavier but perhaps better in mud?). I'm leaning towards the latter.
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Wet mud beats the sticky kind, I had more gear problems at PORC a few weeks ago, despite myself and my bike looking more of a mess afterwards today. Another good technical course. The rocks, roots and mud made it hard to gauge tyre pressure and I think there were a fair few punctures as a result.
If anyone's after a decent folding, all-condition clincher I found these okay today, and they're very cheap at Planet X at the moment.
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I have a 705 that has suddenly decided to fail to connect. When plugged into the computer it starts to look for satellites. I can force it into the connection mode by holding the power key down, or the joystick up when plugging it in, but it's still not visible on my computer. Very occasionally it appears as a unnamed drive using this trick, but I can't format it without the computer freezing or the Garmin disconnecting. Tried a variety of USB leads but still no luck.
Second GPS to break in a month, I probably shouldn't buy these things used. I fear the only solution may be a refurbished unit from Garmin.