Search results for:

Shimano RS505. Pistons stuck in.

Have tried bleeding the system, forcing them out with mineral oil, have soaked them in degreaser to try and free them up. I've got one piston moving but the other won't budge.

The usual advice for this is to hold in the moving piston (with a tyre lever, spanner, or similar), then pump the lever, so all the hydraulic pressure should then go to the stuck piston.

Last time this happened on an ancient set of Shimano brakes I had to both apply a bit of gentle pressure from a syringe at the lever to get it to come out. This is a a bit of a last resort as you can damage seals applying too much pressure.

Then once they're out clean them up with some brake cleaner, and apply a few drops of mineral oil.

My dynamo light has stopped working.

I'm running a standard Shutter Precision hub, on a 20" wheel, and recently hit 70 kph with the light running. Before I buy another, is it possible the light could have blown out? I'd guess there should be some form of over-voltage protection in a modern LED light, and there were no spectacular fireworks but the timing does seem right (it was day at the time so I couldn't say for sure it stopped working right then).

I'm looking at converting a small mountain bike into a drop barred cross bike with big tyre clearance.

Looking at the geo I should be able to get the same position on a 16" mountain bike frame as my 58cm cross bike. Obviously handling will be mountain bike, and I'll have to find a really long seatpost, but anything else to look out for?

Talk to Acorn, the union. I think they're based in Bristol too.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/custom-ebike-motor-programming/bbshd-programming/43287-basics-of-programming-bbs02-and-bbshd-mid-drives

USB cable arrived. Really easy to program (I used the Luna software), the result a much more natural assist, much smoother power output which'll probably save my rear derailleur too. No idea why it comes stock with the weird 1/2 second delay between coasting and power from the motor dropping, but it feels much better without, and I see no reason for the brake or gear shifting sensor like this.

If anyone wants the cable I'll stick it in the post for £10.

Yep, some reports that it can be done with Wine. Loads of information about different settings on the electric bike forums - seems the "limitless" profile is a good place to start for a more natural assist.

Yeah, I just uploaded a second photo to that post to show it a bit more clearly. I think I'll modify a stem cell bag to do the same at the bars.

Negative, no brake sensors. I ride it slightly different to a regular bike (particularly with a deraulleur setup), but it hasn't posed any big issues yet, but I haven't ridden it in much traffic. @pryally has a lot more miles on one than me, and had lots of great advice when I was considering what to go for.

It's possible to tidy up the cables with a little top tube bag. I need to get some extra bottle bosses drilled for the battery (atm it's held on with two bottle cage adapters and some hose clips: seems sturdy but untidy), then I think I'll get a custom full-triangle framebag to contain the cables and battery to neaten it all up.

The bafang's assist is definitely a bit delayed sometimes / continues after you've stopped peddaling.

You can change that with a USB cable though, as well as making the assist a bit more natural at higher cadences.

Loads of great riding just out of the city on or off road. If I had one bike it'd be a gravel bike with a full plethora of gears.

Saw a set of these on facebook a few days ago, let me see if I can find them.

edit: Found them, now sold I'm afraid.

Is there any real guarantee behind Aliexpress' shipping guarantees? I ordered something reasonably urgent 5 weeks ago that had a 7-10 day delivery guarantee. Obviously paid a fair bit more for shipping from a European warehouse and it seems they're now out of stock and I'll be waiting an age for them.

After a cross top lever to fit 31.8mm bars. Tektro RL720 ideal. Will need sticking in the post.

Thanks

Jon.

Wouldn't bother with 451 on the Omnium. Go 406 and put a bigger tyre on. Much wider availability of suitable rims and tyres.

I've had the Halo T2 on the front of my Omnium for the last 70 000km. Still going strong. Now laced up to a SP dynamo with no issues.

Merlin have the Schwalbe Ones for £20 a pop, seems a good bet. Thanks!

Similar to the above, but minus the tan-wall requirement and plus some cheapness. Which budget 28mm road tyres? could be tubeless, but not essential.

I've had the new and old one. New is definetly an improvement but doesn't match Bullitt or Urban Arrow for stability. It comes as a result of the higher loading deck and the stand placement (at the bottom bracket as opposed to directly beneath the loading deck).

That looks like a serious oversight. Felt like the Omnium kickstand always let the bike down slightly, and that was double-legged, just not wide enough and not in the right place to support a load.

Surly certainly looks overpriced but I can't see anything equivalent in r+m's offerings.

Main appeal to steel for this purpose is repairability, when you're spending that much on a bike I'd want it to last.

Anyone ridden the surly big easy? as fun as it looks? Doesn't look like anyone's bought them into the UK.

Heads in: better bracing angle, marginally stiffer.

Heads out: marginally more aerodynamic, looks better.

Unless I can find some valid points for getting the 31s over the 22/26.

All things being the same, the deeper rim will be both stronger and stiff, and as a result should have a higher weight limit. A deeper section rim will also go some way to counteract the narrow flange spacing on the dynamo hub too.

both symmetrical?