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Gut reaction is it looks like it has limited insulation and thermal mass. Also sounds like the leaseholder stuff would be a pain from what you describe. And it's not very big for the money (or is Bristol just a total shitshow market?)

Are you sure you're not being overly swayed by the garage? (understandable)

Fantastic. Thanks.

Is there anything you'd do differently now on reflection?

I would like to go down this route too. Your post is very useful stuff, thanks for sharing.

insulating underneath our ground floor floorboards

Did you already post about your experience and learnings from this? I remember a bunch of chat about rubble in floor voids, but I'm more interested in the detail of insulation and membranes/tape in relation to floor joists.

I've moved my saddle a cm backwards and it feels good I think? Slight elbow annoyance is gone, but in return I got a minor niggle in my knee. Maybe because I didn't account for the saddle dropping slightly

Moving the saddle backward increases the distance from saddle to BB, so you should indeed lower the seatpost slightly to compensate.

No worries. Not sure about the login stuff though, apologies.

To start a thread, navigate to the relevant sub-forum, then click the three dots, then click "start a conversation".

I still ride fixed, so in the spirit of the forum of times gone by... dibs!

I need to drip feed them. Starting with a brompton.

how to get the forum to notify me when there is a post on this thread

Top right, click the three dots. Make sure you have a tick against "following". If not, tick the follow box.

Then under that you'll see a box for "notify me by email" :)

Main issue with the wire bead for me was they're not supple.

It's surely not the bead material that is affecting the supple-ness of the tyre? More like casing construction. After all, the bead doesn't move during riding (or if it does, it's undesirable).

Or do you mean that wire bead tyres tend to have less supple casing construction in general...

space in the skip

And there's probably an item in your invoice where you're paying for cost of waste disposal. Tell them to take it back at their own cost.

Thanks! Paint is by Armour Custom Bicycles. As well as being a friend he is something of a paint wizard. I realised the other day that he's painted 5 bikes for me now. And as I type this, I realise that two of those haven't yet been presented "on here" so I'll probably have to rename this thread...

The idea with this paint was such a dark purple that it almost looks black, but shines a bit in changing light and has some sparkles in the clear coat to distract the viewer from the un-finished fillets:)

Haha, I'm afraid to count! I would guess about 2.5 normal chains should do it. I've got an Alfine 11 rear hub to go on there which will reduce the chain length a bit, and also improve some other recumbent madness:

• the rear mech is perilously close to the tyre when in the largest sprocket
  
• the low gear isn't low enough for proper hills (i.e. Scotland) and a bigger cassette would foul the stays, while using a smaller chainring would make the high gear insufficient for cruising
  
• if you forget to downshift when you come to a stop, you're pickled when using a derailleur gear system because you have to be in a low gear to get started without falling over
  
  

All in all, the recumbent is really amusing while also being kinda terrifying, and surprisingly inefficient.

I wouldn't have bought one, but a friend has been developing something of a recumbent-related problem: he had three, and only a small shed to store them in. I have a garage and a moderate amount of patience for ridiculous bike-related stuff.

And he also started out working as an engineer before getting drawn further into the world of bikes. Not that he's not still an engineer. After our car needed some expensive work I've actually been pondering a velomobile based on Rob's explorations in that direction.

It might be fine, but I would also be less than pleased with what's pictured.

Also the vertical waste pipe on the left appears to be coming out of the joint at an angle, which would likely lead to leaks there.

Cheers. The hole is for internal routing of the rear brake cable. It goes into the down tube as you see it that picture, and emerges just above the bottom bracket, then running along the top of the chain stay. My hope is that it captures some of the nice "clean internal routing" vibes while swerving the frustrations of routing through the bottom bracket shell, chainstay, bars, stem, or head tube...

I'm taking this as a compliment :)

As far as I can tell this recumbent is technically useless because it's not as fast, stable or manoeuvrable as an upright solo. But... it puts a smile on my face to ride. Also, I am lucky enough to have a garage while my friend had three recumbents and only a shed in which to store them. One thing leads to another, and here we are..

Cheers.

As soon as I get confirmation of the revised manuscript being accepted... Could be any day now (or weeks, or months). Who knows.

Another thing happened in the Cupcakes stable. Not sure if this is the right place to share it but fuckit.

...

@cheekysnaker

I just collected this from the painter's workshop. I've also finished my thesis (post-viva amendments), so I have some time.

Photos once I get it home...

Or the headlight, presumably. Just yesterday I saw platform signalling being done using a torchlight.

Oh, I missed that as a requirement. Apologies. They're rigid. Do look quite nice though.

affordable 20" fork that is reasonably light and good enough quality that it belongs on a custom steel bike

I believe the Omnium mini forks might fit the bill?

If you're at all unsure when you get to Corrour then you should bail at Corrour.

Looking at a map of the route is a good idea, you should plan something with a few alternative options. I just had a look at the route map and I don't see any options for trains without going off-route after Corrour.

Make sure you're aware of the locations and logistics of getting out of the situation before you get into it.

Edit: some examples I can see from the map:

1. Leave the route at Loch Eigheach, go to get train at Rannoch.
   
2. Leave the route at Killin, go to get train at Crianlarich (involves riding along an A-road)
   
3. Leave the route at Callander, go to get train at Dunblane.
   
   

In all these cases you need to consciously decide to go to the station, you are not going to stumble upon a bail option.

I would say ask a solicitor about changing property boundaries, and ask local authority building control about putting openings on property boundaries as a starting point.

When I spoke to an architect about putting a window in a wall that forms the boundary of my property they raised fire performance questions. I didn't put the window in, so don't know the requirements, but it is something to consider and confirm.

Cheers, I did wonder. But the smell isn't coming from the basin. Albeit probably a good idea to clean out the basin trap anyway.

The shower "trap" is actually not a trap per se, it's not accessible as the waste goes through a bilge pump. The previous owners made it into a wetroom shower but they didn't adjust the invert level of the connection to drainage externally, so the pump is needed.

Of course the pump is inaccessible behind a bulkhead which also protects the electrics against being in the shower spray zone. There's an access panel but it is too small to do any meaningful work.

Nuke it from orbit etc

I'm trying to avoid ripping my bathroom out, but I probably have to for a lot of reasons.

One of the reasons is that it smells of drains when the window isn't open. The smell is worst from inside the bulkhead that contains the toilet waste pipe and the shower bilge pump.

I think the issue could be one or more of:

1. Shower bilge pump stinks. But it should be a sealed system, and it appears to work (I've been told that if the seals fail, it stops working).
   
2. Gap/open joint in the toilet waste pipe (downstream of the u-bend, upstream of the connection to the soil vent pipe). The toilet flushes fine, so I believe the vent pipe isn't blocked externally.
   
3. Durgo (air admittance) valve stuck open somewhere behind the walls. I don't see how this can be the case though, as the shower bilge pump syphons the basin trap, implying that there isn't a hidden vent on that, and I think that the toilet is connected to the soil vent pipe therefore not using a durgo valve.
   
4. Cracked external sewer pipe somewhere below the ground, allowing foul odours to come up through the building foundations.
   
   

I want to make sure it's not (4) from the list above. How to confirm? Smoke or air pressure tests might be difficult because the drainage system (external) is shared with another flat. And to make it worse, the drainage system doesn't have any external manholes, just gullies. Even the disconnecting manhole (between private and public sewer systems) is concealed below driveway finishes.

If I pay to have a new bathroom put in, and there's an issue somewhere below the foundations of the building, I will be gutted.

Any advice?

Edit: having written this out, it occurs to me that the external drainage is likely below ground but not actually below the building. So I think the answer might just be crack on and have a new bathroom installed. However it would still be nice to figure out the cause of the issue