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Over a 60 minute ride you would probably notice a good couple of minutes between the two bikes in your example. Wheels make the biggest difference, especially if you are not riding on flat and have a lot of stop starts.

velocity fusion, cheaper, lighter and just as strong as deep v.

Cheers, where did you get it from? (Google has let me down)

Ed, what rim do you have one the rear? I am after a set of all black rims (no silver braking surface) which are normal profile. Always had Open Pro CDs in the past but they are not black.

What's a coaster brake like for stopping power ? Can you get by without using a front brake ?

I used a Swobo Folsom for a few months and it was fine. Used it off road and on and never had a problem stopping. Comes from many years of BMX in the 80's when all I had was a back brake which was much less effective than a coaster (if anyone remembers how useless 80's BMX brakes were!)
Only problem with coaster is keeping it from going straight into a skid.

New here, all you need is a washer to fit over the thread, used to be common in 1/16th inch thick. Check the chain line to see whether to place on the hub first or under the LHT locking ring.

I sort of tried that by only puttin the sprocket on 3/4 of the way and then locking it. But could still turn the sprocket anti=clockwise by 1/4 turn using chainwhip so has to be down to the hammer and screwdriver not doing the job, need that last 1/4 turn on the lockring

HTFU and tighten your fackin lock ring like a man

That's the problem, I have been doing it like a man (with hammer and screwdriver).

And I have been hitting it with a good bit of force so will have to see if the correct tool does more than that (no doubt something about rotational forces/leverage that can't be obtained by hitting the crap out of it!)

Cheers guys. The cog is very tight as my chain whip gets it tight enough. Maybe just underestimated the extra tightness a tool with give. It does look like the sprocket has covered the thread so will try a tool (cheaper than buying new hub/wheel!)

When I skid the sprocket goes back about a quarter of a turn. Then goes forward a quarter of a turn when putting pressure back on the pedals to go forwards.

I have not used a lockring tool to put the lockring on (bodged it with screwdriver/hammer) but it seems to be screwed on as hard as it can.

What I am asking is does anyone think that even doing the lockring up with a tool would stop this much 'play' or is it just the poor tolerances of a cheap hub that are not allowing the lockring to screw on as far as it needs to?

Don't want to shell out £20 for a tool if it is going to make no difference!

Why not just swing them over your shoulder and ride that way? Works for me...

Good point, I tend to rest mine over the handlebars.

found myself a nice lugged fork for the Bianchi Pista, it's perfect, lugged but not too fussy, doesn't look out of place on a modern track frame;

Won't that mess up the handling as the pista forks have a very low rake don't they (28mm or something like that) and guessing your new ones will be 43mm ish?

I generally have no idea what the fuck I'm talking about, but it looks to me (based on the angle of the saddle) that this bike might not quite fit its owner. Maybe the drops are too low, or the top tube too long? Whatever the reason, I really don't like the way the saddle is tilted forward.

Maybe the owner has massive balls so the saddle has to point down to give him room?

im plumping for a singlecross, then i can play off road :P

You don't need a singlecross to do that. I use my Steamroller offroad, just get the right tyres and any bike can do it (as long as it has enough clearance)

I just use Armadillos, or currently trying out Ribmos as they are lighter. I like the freedom of being able to just head off up a fireroad or a bit of singletrack rather than being limited to road only.

And if you ever play the guitar (and I guess any other instrument) you will see/feel how muscle memory works.

As long as the bearings are a good fit in the hub (which they almost definitely will be!) then what is to go wrong. If the sealed bearing(s) goes then just replace with the best you can afford.
It's unlikely that axle is going to break, or the spokes rip through the holes and not much else to go wrong with a sealed bearing hub is there?

Cheers mate, any idea on the weight?

I seem to think they will be really heavy.

I would guess at around 2.0 KG. That is what the Steamroller weighs and that is also 4130 and an average weight.

Seems pricy though doesn't it, £399 for frame and no fork. (especially when the general consensus seems to be that the Steamroller is overpriced at £300 for frame AND fork in same material as this)

All depends if you want a solid colour or the fancy work that the Colnago painters do by hand. May be hard to find a local frame painter that can paint the swirls, eye shapes etc, with an air brush...

It can only evolve? into the circus type of riding and that is using a fixed bike to it's advantage. Everything else has already been done on BMX/MTB/Trials bike so it would just be imitating on a more limited bike.
I have always like messing around on BMX and MTB but a road/track orientated frame is just not right for it. Why limit what you can do and then make harder the limited things that can be done?

vanity over sanity :-)
i just use shimano hone chainsets on my singlespeeds as they were cheap and i could tweak the chainline by moving the spacers. the stiffness was only an issue when i first tried external bb cranksets, you don't notice the lack of stifness with isis until you try external.
i just find it odd that square/isis is thought of as 'singlespeed' and the more modern external bb's for geared. it's all cycling i see no rational reason for choosing old technology that people rarely use for geared bikes. especially as the arguments for external bb's with bigger bearings and a large hollow axle would supposedly be ideal for singlespeeding.

Yep, agree that external BBs make more sense. I have used them and personally can't say I notice the extra stiffness even if it is there.
The good thing about the TA Axix is that is uses cartridge bearings that can be replacef for a tenner.

the differance in the metal is not the issue with bikes, but in the tube sets made from that metal. most 4130 tube sets are going to be a lot less enginereed then your 531 tube sets of yore

Exactly, which is why you cannot say one rides better than the other...

i fail to see why people think that as soon as you buy a SS mtb frame it has to be middleburn and square taper/isis?
external bearing BB's are far stiffer and more reliable than isis (IME) and lighter than square taper

i would go for shimano xt or if you want to spalsh the cash xtr.

but it will not be anywhere near as stiff as xt xtr etc. xtr weighs 780g with 3 rings so i guess a smidge under 700 with one? I know which crankset i would rather use.

I haven't seen the test data so wouldn't know how the stiffness compares? Having used the Middleburn without noticing any flex then I can't say it is an issue. Have to say the whole stiffness thing is over rated as I haven't had any cranksets where stiffness feels like an issue.

To me, I would rather use the Middleburn as it has a purpose built singlespeed chainring and avoids the need for chainring bolts giving a cleaner look (much cleaner than an XTR with two rings taken off!)

ok, then non chromoly steel rides better then chromoly steel.

The difference between 531 and 4130 is minimal. (0.n % more carbon in 531 or somthing like that) If you made two frames from each tubeset with exactly the same thickness and butting etc, I would be very surprised if you could tell the difference.

external bearing BB's are far stiffer and more reliable than isis (IME) and lighter than square taper

Not always. I had a Middleburn Uno with a TA Axix light square taper than weighed in at just over 600 grams. Think you would struggle to match that with an external BB crankset.

Okay, you can get away with it if you are very, very good. If average or below then a bit harder to pull it off!

Starting to think about the lovely Drive I had last year, all up weight of 22lbs. Where can I buy another one now...

http://s189848836.onlinehome.us/drivebmx/main.php

and I'd still love an 80's PK Ripper. But a 40 year old riding a BMX just can't be done...

Don't ride for as long in winter so need it to be more concentrated, whilst at same time giving opportunity to improve cadence.