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This was my fault. I had to move a weekend trip to do some DIY in Devon because we played last Friday (rearranged game). Sorry, I love Doodle, but we filled that in on 15th November and I only heard about Saturday being a possibility earlier this week (3 weeks later).

I can do any day really, but usually need a bit of notice. A Doodle 'option' is not a confirmed date to play, etc.

Yeah, an old fashioned pea roller through a bb on the non-mallet side. Was it 5-3 in the end?

If it's got a holiday restriction then fair enough, although the council look upon change of use favourably (understandably).

All holiday lets are evil, especially with the current income tax relief.

Sorry to hear about Kris.

You/your daughter/anyone can easily lift the boards, but you're likely to damage the first one.

Trades are unlikely to take on small jobs right now as they are in demand (Brexit).

Can it only be occupied as a holiday let? If not, tell them to sell it!
10,000 Airbnbs and nowhere to live: Cornwall’s housing crisis

I'm attempting this at the moment (when it's above 5 degrees). The plan is lime putty for smaller areas and lime putty/sand mortar mix built up in layers for larger areas. Then a final wipe down before final lime plaster layer, then lime primer, then breathable paint.

Getting the mix, moisture level, temperature and ensuring you're patient seems to be what others recommend. YouTube videos look easy enough, etc.

That would've been ideal, but we're in a conservation area.

Yep, I've looked at similar options. Hempcrete is out (mess and weight). I originally assumed cork would be too expensive (perhaps not if unfinished). We already have a base of semi-decent lime plaster and we don't mind working with lime plaster/paints on top.

I contacted Pavatex and they stated that reducing U-values beyond 0.4 was inadvisable as would have too significant effect on rate of drying of the (exterior) wall, hence frost damage. This seems to be confirmed by Jospeh Little in Breaking The Mould:
"It seems reasonable to deduce from this that once driving rain is dealt with internally-insulated walls appear to work best with less insulation than 0.45 W/m2K"
https://www.buildinglifeconsultancy.com/content/breaking-mould-5 (link not secure)

However, I wondered if there was an alternative to accepting a worse U-value (for IWI) by reducing humidity (heat recovery from bathrooms for example) as the improved interior environment might provide better external wall performance during dry spells?

Or perhaps I need to fixate less on U-values...

@TW I'm talking about a heritage-style solid wall installation with no vapour control layer. So a fully permeable insulation system using wood-fibre board and lime plaster that would work with the walls thermal mass (not against it).

A non-permeable insulation layer with gap would be pretty standard, but also leads to overheating in the loft, trickier bridges/returns (around sash window boxes) and might mean the wall/timbers achieve 20% humidity in poorly ventilated areas regardless.

Why the 2" gap in the end? What do you think of the argument that removing the gap gives the house the ability to dry out the exterior wall (even at 100mm IWI)?!

We're a terrace property and I'm wondering if front-to-back airflow in the roof and under the ground floor would be adequate.

Has anyone had experience with breathable Internal Wall Insulation (IWI)?

I'm trying to achieve 0.3W/m2K in a Victorian property with solid brick walls. The acoustic properties of wood fibre are appealing, but no air gap between external wall and internal boards feels odd/worrying?

Although it perhaps seems 'obvious'... they haven't seen an increase in viruses in water translate into a big increase in transmissible viruses in shellfish (yet?).

Oysters/norovirus is the classic example, the water/environment/oysters contain low-level norovirus, but there's been no data to suggest the norovirus risk from oysters has actually increased (it's stable).

Quite. Chrono24 said £300 which seemed steep! I can throw in a silicone strap too.

Excuse the old picture, but if anyone wants to buy a Seiko Pepsi then mine isn't getting worn anymore. Excellent condition, no box. £200.

Only certain wind directions? Which wind direction? That would suggest you have poor overlap somewhere.

You could recreate the effect of the wind by experimenting with hose angles?

Consider talking to a financial advisor as they'll most likely save you time and money.

Typically up to £85,000 per person per institution is fully protected (FCA).

I'd either start with one of the big providers (Vanguard, Hargreaves Lansdown, etc). Or one of the easy-access ones (Nutmeg, Nest, etc).

Check if you have any exit fees on those small pots.

In the future, if you reach the extra tax charges incurred at over £1 million then it can be useful to have some small pots. You're allowed up to three pots below £10k each and they won't count towards any extra tax charges.

Yep, a first attempt, it's not so difficult, but it is terrifying.

Roofs are terrifying: I had to use an 8m scaffold tower plus a 6m roof ladder!

Here's hoping fortifying some dodgy render and extending some short-flashing will fix the problem, I couldn't see any other contenders.

You can retrofit any building to Passivhaus standards. There were a few players trying to do just that with huge outer envelopes ~10 years ago, but surprise surprise they didn't get much traction in the UK.

If a key driver was reduction in energy consumption, why is there a wood stove and exhaust poking out the roof of it? Fail.

Any advice for hunting lead flashing issues?

I'm assuming some bricks are sponging water from one side of the roof as the damp stain appears lower down the wall (halfway down in the loft space). I can also see what looks like badly overlapped lead sections.

Anyone got any tips? Or do I have to climb on the roof and randomly investigate?

Horizontal unless you've good reason not to, better weather/water protection.

What year is that Skyliner? It's beuatiful!

Nice. [Sees price.] Ah, maybe not.