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I enjoyed it. Not sure i'll be able to say the same about work today...

this looks fun. in.

1. Spotter
   
2. fade
   
3. malandro
   
4. Seraphinx
   
5. shinkuu kiss
   6.wakamuaka
   
6. Temp
   
7. Inchpincher
   
8. Eamesy
   
9. lardboy
   
10. moth
    

was looking for that Northern Soul one and stumbled on this - by any stretch of the imagination a fucking great performance

Moloko - Sing it Back - YouTube

I'm pretty sure the lyrics were originally meant with bitter irony, but then a stack of remixes that took them completely straight made it their biggest hit. Ironically.

Love'd all of Moloko's work and Roisin Murphy's subsequent solo career is well worth checking out too.

I like the way the first photo only hints at the fade, and then scrolling down half way through the second: 'is it? is it...? OOooh that's nice.'

http://road.cc/content/news/75482-construction-firms-london-lack-awareness-risk-lorries-pose-cyclists-says-trl

http://buffalobillbikeblog.wordpress.com/2013/02/02/time-for-a-london-lorry-ban/

1: HSE [the Health & Safety Executive] should extend the Reporting of Injuries, Diseases and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations (RIDDOR) to include on-road collisions

2: Adherence to a nationally recognised standard on work- related road safety (such as the ISO39001 standard on road traffic safety management) should be promoted

3: HSE should include off-site safety in the Construction Phase Plan (mandatory under the CDM [Construction Design & Management] regulations)

4: Existing channels should be utilised more effectively to raise awareness of road risk within the construction industry

5: CLP [Construction Logistic Plan] guidance should be updated by TfL and its use promoted throughout London

6: Vehicle manufacturers should work to improve vehicle and mirror design

7: A wider review of the blind spots in different construction vehicle types should be conducted

8: Principal contractors and clients should use more realistic delivery time slots

9: CLPs must include the definition of safer routes to construction sites

10: Further research should be conducted to understand the effects of pay per load contracts

11: The vehicle type ‘construction vehicle’ should be included in Stats19

12: Recommendations 1 to 11 need to be addressed by stakeholders from across the industry, working with relevant regulatory bodies when necessary.

I think points 1 and 3 of TRL's recommendations are particularly important as ways to drive change. Struggling to turn those points into snappy slogan though. Anyone?

Personally i think this is more about lorries than street design, and we should be saying 'ban rush hour lorries' rather than 'safe space', but i'll be there because it's overwhelmingly clear that something needs to happen and Boris needs to pull his finger out.

OK, here's my take on it. As the pads start to grip the rim, the wheel will be rotating forward, pulling the brake forward too. Once they have gripped and slow the bike, you have the whole weight of the bike and you behind the brake, pushing against it. Without the bolt against the fork crown, all this pressure is taken on the forks at two level points allowing it to twist and exert pressure on the forks. The bolt stabilizes the brake and spreads the pressure to a third point. Does that make any more sense?

In the diagram above, the bolt (6) is extended to the crown, so there must be some reason for it and it can't do any harm.

I think you're on the right track but getting some bits backwards. The little bolt isn't about spreading braking load over a 3rd point - as you say the forces are forwards, so it would need to be anchored into the fork crown to do that, like a normal calliper brake...

When you brake the bracket will flex forwards because that's the way the top of the wheel is moving. But tighten the little bolt so it pushes the bracket forwards, and now when you brake the new forces unload the little bolt but don't create additional flex in the bracket. This should reduce brake judder, possibly at the cost of damaging the paint on the crown.

So is the tool you do have is the other one in the instructions you linked, or something else?

If the former, once you can get the top cap to pop up, maybe you can adapt it to take the tool you have?

The instructions' warnings about scratches leading to oil-leak death are a bit scary...

Chilling.

Sorry for the OT, but this protest ride http://www.lfgss.com/thread110251.html has sprung up at short notice, so it seems worth spreading around to people looking for something to do this evening.

Or trek into the city to join this protest first? http://www.lfgss.com/thread110251.html#post3713518

In.

With such short notice this needs to get bumped and tweeted and generally spread quickly.

extra long pieces for early long-wavelength radar?

No normal oil or grease on spoke thread; you want to increase friction at that interface which is what linseed oil does by drying out.

Do you not find this gives you clicky wind-up at higher tensions?

I think moth just did.
1: turn nipple until torque from spoke wind up exceeds static friction
2: spoke springs back to much lower wind up angle as sliding friction is much lower than static friction
3: eventually, sliding friction slows the rotating spoke, which is also now exerting much less torque than before, and it comes to a stop

the problem is that in step 2, the threads turn further than you wanted, but you're not sure how much of the initial wind-up translated into turning, and if you make an opposite adjustment you overshoot again... I don't have a good answer, just various fiddly patterns of turning it back and forth hoping to end up with the adjustment i wanted and no twist.

The feeling the twist thing only works well when there's a smoother transition to threads turning, and that seems to be down to luck and/or thicker lubricant on the thread.

I've not built enough wheels to have settled on what lubricants to use. I've done a couple of my own with thick wet-conditions chain lube, which was nice to build with, but may have left the threads turning too freely as they needed re-truing after not very long (though they seem to have settled down now).

I've used WD40 (squirted into a bottle cap then spoke threads dipped in), on the theory that it would help with the build then mostly evaporate. Not the smoothest but seemed to work.

I tried purified linseed oil once (the expensive artist's stuff - i had some to hand) but it took months to set, and until it did it was more grease than glue. I might have a go with boiled linseed oil sometime soon. (Linseed oil needs oxygen to set into a resin - the opposite of thread-locking compounds which set anaerobically.)

I know a lot of people swear by building dry, but i confess that just feels wrong to me. (Fine with thick spokes and modest tensions?)

Option 5: improvise a way to twist it with a couple of flat-head screwdrivers? Only viable if it's both robust and not too tightly stuck.

Also, could you replace it with the modern part you have the tool for?

Oh, i try hard not to leave spokes wound up. I hadn't intended to suggest that greasing the eyelets was an alternative to avoiding wind-up, merely pointing out that for wind-up to affect true, the nipple must be held still when the spoke turns. It'd probably take some boosting of the thread friction (with spoke-freeze or corrosion or well-set linseed oil) as well as greased eyelets to reliably avoid that.

I do the 'turn then turn back a bit' thing, throwing in some 'hold the spoke with the other hand while you turn to feel the twist' thing to assess how much the spokes are twisting currently. As you turn the key you can easily feel when the spoke stops twisting and the threads start to move. I try and note how much i turned the key before the thread moved, then back off that amount after the adjustment, but that's only an approximation as static and sliding friction are different, as is the tension before and after the adjustment. I've found the amount of twist quite variable. It can be almost ignorable on plain gauge spokes, while on skinny things like sapim lasers the twist and back-off can be larger than the adjustment i'm making. On old wheels it can vary wildly from spoke to spoke too.

I've played with putting flags on spokes, but that's quite fiddly and time consuming, and if you're only going to flag a few you can get about the same benefit just by feeling the twist. I sometimes put a tiny mark of permanent marker on each spoke to give an absolute reference to assess wind-up against - though not as precise as flags, it's quick enough to do for every spoke and doesn't get in the way while truing. Solvent or degreaser easily remove the marks afterwards.

^ i'm jealous. btw The Thomas Lord in West Meon is a good pub, though probably too busy on a sunday.

I think the A380 wants to be a Zeppelin when it grows up.

Friction between nipple and rim doesn't affect spoke wind up, which is purely a function of friction between nipple and spoke

Wind-up becomes a problem when a momentary reduction in spoke tension reduces thread friction enough for the spoke to twist relative to the nipple, relaxing its wind-up and taking the wheel out of true. Grease the eyelets and maybe the nipple will turn with the spoke. Also grease will reduce the spoke key torque needed, so you're less likely to round or shear the nipple, and grease will resist corrosion, which as Apollo recently found can be an issue where dissimilar metals meet.

**PLEASE READ BEFORE DIBSING STUFF***
... No dibsing on anything, please PM me with your address and asking for my paypal. Once you have paid and I have confirmed please post "I have purchased x" on this thread to avoid confusion. ...

Gran sport and super record mech dibs.

hummm

If I get given a street and am told it has a 20mph limit that affects all the junction radiuses (corner angles). I can tighten everything up, it means I can have areas where cars and pedestrians and cyclists negotiate for space, it changes the whole rules of the game.

If it's 30mph I’m going to have to control everything, I’m going to have to have signalised junctions, I’m going to have to illuminate everywhere and I’m going to have to put in radiuses that refuse vehicles can take at 30mph because that’s the design speed of the road. All these things that people don’t like about a street environment is about having to design for 30mph, which means we have to protect people from it.

from here

Yeah, that was me. I read it. As EZ posts go, that one was actually not bad.

Is there anyway to use less spokes than 36 on using either a 36 or 32h hub on a 36h rim?

I don't think there's any even vaguely sensible way to use a 32h hub with a 36h rim.

If it's a dished rear you could build it half-radial onto a 36h hub and leave out half the NDS spokes to give a 27 spoke wheel. I'd want a deep and stiff rim to resist the unevenness - wheels should be round not nonagonal. (I've heard of people doing something like this with 24h rims & 24 spokes onto 32h hubs.)

Are the rim holes offset towards alternate hub flanges, or drilled at an angle aimed towards alternate flanges? If not you have more options:

Find an 18h hub and you could build a radial wheel with every other rim hole. (No, it won't work with every other hole of a 36h hub - you'll find half the holes you want are on the wrong flange.)

There's a whole family of 24 spoke patterns that will work on a 36h hub by skipping every third rim hole. You can do radial, 0.5 cross, 1.5 cross, 2.5 cross... On all of them the skipped rim holes come between two spoke that go to the same flange - lateral trueing might be hard.

If the rim holes are flange-specific then you have to skip pairs of adjacent rim holes, so your wheel may come out hexagonal.

Need some help installing a Gilles Berthoud rear mudguard on my tourer. They are a good 3cm away from the little bridge between stays, and said bridge is not drilled. I'd like to keep them exactly in this position, so they're a nice consistent distance from the tyres, but wondering what's the best workaround?

My suggestion: drill a second hole a little above the first. Find some plastic pipe with about the same diameter as the chainstay bridge, cut a length to fit the gap. Loop a cable tie around the chainstay, through the pipe, through the old and new holes in the guard, and back through the pipe.