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which one is best, go on, have an argument, diss some and rav some up, have an argument, just let me sit back and pick out the surviving bikes.
all the possible dissing, arguing, raving up etc.
Has already occured. There is even a purpose made 'off the peg' bikes sticky, and many many comparison threads with heaps of advice.
At the end of the day, they are bikes that will do the job fine.
Go pick one you like the look of, like the ride of and can afford. They are all specced very simarlary so theres not much to compare other than ride. So go do it!
And theres nothing particularly "designer" about kona ( I would say the opposit in fact), and nothin "mental" about charge bikes.I dont really see what your getting at, but you seem way too excited.
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Im in London on saturday, was looking foward to whizzing about on my bike, getting a "feel" for riding in the capital like you lot, and checking out some of the fancy HHSB in the shops perhaps.
Unfortunately im still without a ride after I broke it a couple of weeks ago! So will feel all envious when I see some fellow fixie fanciers nipping about.
If anyone is ever up in Birmingham (I know very unlikeley!) Just wanna mention, I always have one or two spare bikes im happy to let people borrow. Can provide a tour of the few nice spots to ride aswell.. lol.
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Buy the Shimano XT hollowtech cranks that Tynan was selling.
External bottom bracket are the future, extremely hardwearing! I have truvativ howitzers on my dirtjump mtb thing.
Theres really not much to concern yourself about when building a SS mtb, singlespeed kits (spacers, cog) and chain tensioners are readily availble very cheap and reliable.
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Damn - don't have one of those. Maybe dropping the PSIs a little would be a good idea? They're on 100 at the mo....
nah, youll be ok with the 100psi. the casing is just as strong with the rubber detached. Its only a concern if you either skid through it or ride over something sharp. In which case a patch on the inside would save you.
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Sorry, but an idiotic question here.
I just got some spokes in the post. From diagrams/descriptions on the net I got the impression that the spokes were 2.0mm at each end, with a very visible narrower middle section (1.8mm)
The ones I have, seem to have a very slight taper, with a thicker end and a narrower end. It might just be my eyes, but does this sound like the right kinda spoke?
Thanks
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please stop this nonsense.
?
I was mereley being helpful.
If you want to use a quill stem on a unthreaded fork. You just have to fit a headset like this:

If you have a threaded fork, which you want to use with a clamp-on stem. You can do it if your steerer tube is long enough to reach the stem. Ideally with the threaded part coming above the stem clamp. You of course use a normal Aheadset.
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Without quoting from the man himself, Sheldon lead me into my scurillous life of ss and fixed with something like: track frames are always going to be stiffer and twitchier (and less forgiving on your derriere) than a road bike - they're built to ride in circles on wood. Road frames are made of (often) better tubing and designed to deal with bumps and pot holes and heavy braking and the rest. I've always wondered why folk prefer a track frame for riding london streets. They look good - no question, but I see no other obvious bonus. If you're shelling out for a frame you would like to keep for the foreseeable, why not go for a conversion - you might end up gearing that motherfucker up and strapping some (HEAVEN FORBID) panniers to it and riding yourself across a continent. Conversions rule.
I enjoyed that, you should be a life coach or something.
As for the gears+panniers=trekking thing.
I have this:

Im using it as my temporary ride, but I cant go very fast because the the steel wheels are full of knocks and slightly egg shaped. Plus the brakes have no effect (again steel rims)
I wanted to slowly turn it into a classic reliable 5 speed, for leisuirly winter rides in harsh weather. With a big front loading rack of course.
But Ive had to use it as an emegency bike, so I stuck on my fixed wheel so I can stop a little (just flat pedals) and some large path racer style bars. The bike looks a little awesome now, but it is a bad bodge job and very dangerous to ride! The super long wheelbase is definetely better for cruising about freewheel.
It cost me £10 aswell, from a chap who knew the whole history of the coventry bicycle manufacture and even gave me the name of the builder who made the bike!
Oh and PJ,
you may joke, but if you have any ebay skills and a little patience. You can find a quality italian road frame for £100. I mentioned the colnago, because that is what a friend recently bought.
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Different sized headset cups can require different sized or different numbers of bearings.
They are not all the same.You may also have two completely different sized forks, are you sure they are both 1" or both 1 1/8" ?
If they are both 1", check that both headsets use the same sized balls. If so, just get a few loosballs and fill it up.
A 1 1/8" threaded steerer is quite rare on a road bike. But if its an Ahead you may have that issue. In which case you can get it to work by fiddling with a lot of different headsets.
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dude had one at south drinks tonight. looked good. those are the cheapo cranks, the £40 bb, cranks, chainset combo. looks like a black touche to me.
Although pearson themselves and a couple of shops sell those cranks for around that price doesnt mean theres anything inferior about them.
A lot of FSA cranks are excellent. I have no experience with these but, the FSA vero's seem to come on some of the nicer off the peg bikes.
A lot better than them bulldog cranks or whatever!
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Oh my my god that such an incredibly sweet story, but bittter bitter to my ears.
Heres that same story, as if it happened to me:
A bunch girls started laughing at me, and said "oh myyy god, look at that wanker on a bike" "I think hes looking at you" "How tragic"
Then they whisper, and ones comes over and hands me a card.
It reads "fuck off"
Then they all giggle and walk away.
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have you ever stripped a powder coated rim tynan?
I just got a pair of dt swiss rr.1's and they are powder coated a light grey unlike the black one you seems to have had which I presume is anodised?
Id really like some polished rims to go with my hubs, and am considering stripping them. Any idea what I might find inside? Will they just be dull matt finish aluminum or shiny polished surface?
Ive stripped aluminium frames & forks before and they have always been very shiny underneath.
Id otn think I can be bothered to polish my rims if they some out dull though.
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You had bad luck with your snap thats all.
Do Archie Wilkinson Cycle Speedway frame have clearance for 700c wheels then. I am guessing even though speedway frames run 26" wheels the larger tyre means there is clearance enough for a 700?
Yup, ive had a talk to him. He has one built up in his shop with 700's, Ive been planning to go for a look but without a bike to ride there I have been putting it off!
they need a different fork though, as modern speedway forks are ZERO rake, so a there would not be clearance for a 700.

If it leaves an empty dispenser for the next person to go in. Then it just depends how funny it is.