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a) the spindle on the BB will probably be too long to get a decent chainline if the BB's for a road double. It'll work but might be noisy.
b) check out my thread 'Stronglight bottom bracket misery'. You might have a collar in the BB shell that is stopping it from screwing in all the way. I ended up getting a Miche Primato BB which has no flanges so it's more adjustable.
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It really is a big case of HTFU - if you haven't been active for a while then it'll be hard - one gear or twenty - but fixed will get you fitter faster and you'll soon find yourself pushing yourself to breaking point to get up that hill even faster.
There's always an easier option, but if you stick with what you've got, in a couple of weeks you'll get it. Grit your teeth, concentrate on getting a consistent cadence, watch the weight fall off and realise that you're actually enjoying yourself.
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I can't stand HDR - just seems like a more advanced version of the PS filters people used to use on their shots in the belief it would make a mediocre shot good (no offence - I'm posting from my mobile and haven't seen the HDR shot posted earlier). I suppose I'm just a purist - my brain says it's a photo and should therefore be left to stand on its own merits, while other people see a digital image ripe for manipulation.
Better than a posterise or watercolour filter though!
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Pitlocks plus a decent d lock.
Admit that if you ride an expensive bike and leave it around anywhere in any city by itself it has a chance it will get stolen. Who cares, its just a bike!
+1
When you consider the value of most of our bikes, the thought of leaving them locked anywhere becomes steadily more ludicrous. I would never leave my Campag equipped geared bike anywhere, the same as I wouldn't lock my full sus downhill bike in a dodgy place - so it doesn't make sense that I use my Mercian fixed to get about town - especially considering it's not worth that much less. I may be working in central London soon, and would think about building up a beater frame for that commute, but then why did I buy the Mercian if I'm going to be too precious to ride it?
Whatever - like Rakan said, it's just a bike and it's a risk you take. I use a Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit, but won't leave it anywhere I can't check up on it - but all that means is I don't ride to the cinema.
Christ - what a fucking ramble. Hopefully you get the idea though...
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shimano have two types of spd cleat.
Multi Release which will un clip to either side and up... the ones you get stock with new pedals
Single Release which only un clip towards the outside.The Multi release ones are easy to spot due to the letter M on the cleat.
Single release tend to be black as well.
+1 on that though - if you're using multi release the odds are that the force you're exerting through skidding is making you uncleat. I've used M520s for the past year almost, and haven't had any problems - and they're not particularly tight either. I think I tightened mine as much as they could go, and then loosened them off two turns - they've been fine.
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I've been reading this thread with interest these past few days. I'm the diversity manager of an east London council (those who have been paying attention will know which one this is). I'm not saying this makes my response any more worthy, but still...
Every time I see or hear something like this, I roll my eyes and sigh. Is the post racist? Legally, yes. Would legal action improve the situation or provide some sort of redress? No. Is it going to change Velorution's attitude? No - in fact it's going to fill them with an even more powerful anti-PC rheotoric. Just as the earlier post showing the picture of the Tory 'It's not racist to impose limits on immigration' poster shows, what we've ended up with is an ignorant, misguided and misinformed person who will use the excuse that they're trying to encourage discussion and debate as a means to peddle their ignorant, misguided and misinformed views - and it makes me sick.
I'd love it if the legislation really made things better, but in the end, coercion won't change Velorution's views - it'll only make them worse. Having read the post, I don't think anything will change them - the only answer (to me) appears to be to hit him in the pocket. If you don't agree with his views, don't shop at Velorution, and recommend that your friends and acquaintances do the same.
In the end you've got to ask "what do I want the outcome to be?" and sadly shopping him to the Equality and Human Rights Commission might give you a bit of immediate satisfaction, but it won't resolve the problem that brought this about in the first place.
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shimano one won't fit.And it's not just any campag one, you need the record BB tool.
Right you are - managed to get it in with various bodges, but will be getting the proper tool from Outspoken to do some fine tuning. The adjustable chainline thing is brilliant - I'm in full on stealthy silent running mode now. Shame the cartridge itself is just a generic Slovakian job, but then at that price it's no biggy. Amazed at the difference there is between the ISO and the JIS.
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Still here I'm afraid...
I should have a Miche Primato BB waiting on the doormat when I get home, and having had a bit of a search, it looks like my BB tool ain't gonna fit. Looking at the BB tools out there, they bear more than a passing resemblance to a cassette lockring remover. Would my Shimano cassette remover do the job, or is there that much of a difference between the Campag one (which apparently fits) and the Shimano?
While I'm at it, as I have a small stack of BBs, can anyone confirm that I can (safely) use the 107 spindle Shimano BB with a pair of Campag Chorus cranks on my geared. If the difference in chainline is around 4.5mm, then it stands to reason that this would create near enough the correct chainline for a road double? Or should I just buy a Campag BB?
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careful with the nitromors.
also you need more than you think+1
Two words: 'it' 'burns'.
I'm not being overzealous when I say wear goggles and chemical gloves and don't leave your skin uncovered. Nitromors recommend using a paintbrush to apply, well here's another two words: 'paintbrushes' 'flick'.
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i want his look...
shall i just nitromorse the crap out of it and then clearcoat lacquer it? will it keep rust free?
Tried it on my Raleigh before I sprayed it white. It looks the bomb for a few months, and then the rust starts coming through. I liberally sprayed mine in clear lacqueur but it still rusted eventually. The general problem is that without a primer to 'etch' the metal, the lacquer won't stick.
I'm pretty sure it'll happen to even a professional job - I have a pair of BMX bars in clear coat and they rusted up eventually.
It's a shame because it looks the absolute bomb. It's only surface rust really, but if you don't want it to get worse you'll need to keep re-applying.
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"As much as I love Hasselblads, I could never justify buying one, because I only use film these days for personal work."
but the v-series hasselblads are arctually a good system to use with digital backs. the h series cameras are rebadged fujis with wobbly lenses, i certainly wouldn't buy one which is why i'm keeping my 503 to use with a phase one back. i have shot on a p45 with 40/80/100/120macro zeiss lenses of various ages (the 120 is over 20 years old) all very sharp with minimal chromatic abhorration.
hassleblad have just announced a 50mpixel back, a pointless increase in size over 39mp, their r&d time would be better spent improving their current camera body and lenses or increasing the noise performance of their current chips which is piss-poor above 200asa.We may have to continue this elsewhere, lest we hijack the thread, but it's interesting you say that. For the kind of work I do, I actually appreciate the flexibility I can get with the waist level finder, but have fallen into using a DSLR simply because of price and convenience. When the trade-off is the quality of your work though, you've got to wonder why the hell you made the switch though.
In the end, the main drawback is price - my Nikon D100 cost around £450, and with various lenses and flashes I'm still not looking at much more than a grand. With the Hasselblad and the equivalent lenses, I'd be looking at a lot more - and let's not get started on digital backs... I see myself moving more into the studio in future though, and from experience I've found the Hassy much better suited to that kind of environment.
Damn you though - without even realising it I've just trawled through eBay to see what I'd be looking to pay for a half decent setup...
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When it comes to film cameras, they're worth whatever anyone's willing to pay for them. One week I'm seeing Hassy 501s for £450, the next they're going on eBay for over a grand. Wish I'd bought one for £450...
Au fin du jour, unless you're going to be doing wall sized prints, you're generally not going to notice the difference. The Bron's a good intro to the world of medium format that's generally pretty inaccessible.
As much as I love Hasselblads, I could never justify buying one, because I only use film these days for personal work, and I can't justify shelling out that much on something that wouldn't return the outlay. In this respect the Bronica is a good option.
If I wasn't on the lookout for cheap Elinchrom gear at the moment, you might have been getting a PM from me...
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Friends,
Shit! I am getting contrasts on a Mercian renovation (no its not a dawes, godsballs)of a 76 Campionissimo, and I've only just realised I have to use lining in between the contrasts. Dur.
The dilemma: It's a mid blue f&f with some sandy coloured conrasts, so the contrast needs lining... White, Black or gold even? Decals will probably be white with black outline.
Also: decals... headcrest on seatube? Its a barbers' pole job so I reckon text might be a bit messy.
Anyobody wanna say something that'll help me decide?
It needs to be a deep seventies lick.
You NEED to have lug-lining for the contrasts? Not as far as I know. My Holdsworth is up at Mercian at the moment, being sprayed in gunmetal grey, with a red contrasting headtube. They didn't say I specifically needed lug-lining and didn't even recommend it.
Of course, if it will set the look off, then maybe I should be thinking about getting it done. Any recommendations?
As for your case, I think it depends on the lugs - if they're straight cut, then I might be tempted to go for black, but if the lugs are ornate, I'd probably have the same colour as the decals.
Blue and sand, if I've pictured it right, sounds mm mmm...
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i personally think u're not going to get the stronglight BB in... but remember stronglight BB's are JIS taper and miche are ISO if u're going to swap. chainline difference there.
Sorry Ed - old thread - we've already established that the Stronglight BB won't fit, so that's just languishing in a tool box until I can be bothered to list it on eBay (or give it away on here...).
The frame is indeed an old one - 1955 to be precise - although it has the modern decals on, so I'll be taking it up to Mercian when I pick up my Holdsworth for them to verify that it is actually a Mercian. I've got no reason to believe it isn't though - fantastic quality and geometry and the Nervex 48 lugs date it around that period too.
At the moment the cost of a BB is working out at less than the cost of a new set of cranks (although with the number I've bought that won't be the case soon), so what I'm looking to do now is find a BB that's ISO tapered that will fit in the BB shell without hitting that collar...

Cable routing would beg to differ...
EDIT: Unless you mean 'STI' in the broad sense encompassing Ergo, and effectively meaning there aren't downtube shifters?