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Looking for a 10 speed rear mech with a carbon face plate from either the Chorus or Record groupsets a few years ago. If you have one you would like to shift on (boom boom), drop me a PM and we can sort out a price. I can collect just about anywhere in London.

If it's a sealed BB, the cup bit should be on the NDS and left hand threaded. Sounds like something is very wrong here.

Shouldn't be possible to put the BB in the wrong way. The difference between ISO and JIS could make the difference but you would see it on both sides. Can you tell us which BBs and cranks you are using? Photo might also be useful.

What frame is it? What groupset is it? What size is the frame? I need a spare road bike to leave at my mums house.

If the headset is made for a 1 1/8" fork and uses a crown race, I don't see why this wouldn't fit. I also think I have one of those headsets in my parts bin.

Or you could just do the front one and leave the rear single pivot. This config is an option on the modern groupsets above a certain level.

+1 for Prolink Progold.

Don't drill anything for this reason.

That was fun. Might even turn up again.

Definition of a secle. I'd hurry it up a bit or all the drink will be drunk. And the world might have ended.

Feeding the dog and then we'll be heading over. Should be within the hour.

£2.49 bottom bracket? Holy crap.

What time you lot going to be there roughly?

It's Mummy Butters' dog that I'm looking after for a while. I guess I can always tramp beer it outside if they won't let the little fcuker in.

Know if dogs are allowed?

You'll be fine. If the truing gets too tricky, it shouldn't be more than a tenner to get an LBS to finish it off for you.

So is it Sovereign or Jolly Butchers this eve? Might take the pooch for a walk.

Lolz

I've known worn cogs to be noisy.

Holy smokes that's nice. Was tempted to buy it just for the groupset and wheels, but too late. I guess chasing Dimi around just got a bit harder.

Can't you just use spacers to make the stack height up?

Joytech are sealed bearing aren't they? If so, it's pretty cheap to replace the bearings. I've bought some FAG and SKF ones from Bolton Engineering in the past.

Can't see a problem if you are staying radial on the front.

The Vero's I have feature a very small notch / tab / thing on the inside and a much more substantial one on the outside. I always assumed that this was to take a fair bit of the strain and the chainring bolts were to hold the chainring against these notch / tab / things securely. Admittedly none of this is based on anything other than assumption and the failure you experienced could be the chainring position or the chainring itself or something else. I have had crank bolts go pop a couple of times and the chainring didn't taco on either occasion. One of these times was going up swains lane, with all of my awesome power, so there was plenty of opportunity.

Last years route:

http://www.bikemap.net/route/1499103#lat=51.682592596473&lng=-0.15601&zoom=11&maptype=ts_terrain