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The first post has been edited, not fully yet, but in part.
The problem is that if I edit something, and come back to edit something else, the whole post has disappeared, awaits moderation, then I have to wait hours to apply more edits. I don't know how this can be changed at all, but it's certainly a difficulty that I face, and it slows things down immensely.
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So, I can get the Note 2 for free, the money I spend over a giffgaff contract is less than buying the phone new when spread over 18 months.
So, the question is, again, and I'm sure no one can answer this for me, but I'm trying again anyway: is it worth it? My S2 works fine... Argh.
Horatio, the S2 is an excellent little phone, but after that I got the Note 1, I then gave that away (one setback of having kids) when I got another upgrade, and that was how I ended up with the Note 2.
The original Note was demonstrably better than the S2,and the Note 2 is honestly so far ahead of the original Note, they feel like they're from different decades.
The Note 2 is fast like I never thought possible in a mobile phone. True, other phones now beat it for speed, but as a tool of productivity, it's unbeatable. And then there is the screen, which changes what you expect from a phone. Videos to go, and full films, that are easy on the eye.
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.......The interminable this is better, no that is better, just stop you from taking pictures......
The rest apart from the inherent technicalities of photography is just so much subjective bullshit...
.......There needs to be less chat about why this is better or that is worse and more doing. The chit chat is what infuriates me, because more often than not the equipment has no bearing on what you produce, it's your use of it which makes the difference....
"Infuriates" you? Really?
Corny, you mean to say that people should not disagree on technical aspects, or in any other aspects on this thread?
Photographers, like sportsmen, sometimes disagree. I don't think it happens too much on this thread, but maybe I've missed what you have witnessed. Still, I see not much wrong with some opposing views. I'm surprised that you are so easily infuriated actually.
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Mr.Timberg, first of all, I'd like to thank you very much for the challenge. Due to the nature of bike security, once the data and information is presented, it can be rather formulaic after that, with similar advice handed out time after time. But your challenge was good, and had me really think of how to supply a new solution for a new security situation.
As far as I know, your request is the first that includes a requirement for battery security, and is possibly the first electric bicycle dealt with in this thread. So, despite my answers before, it all comes down to this:
Lock rear frame and battery to railings/bike rack, with Abus Granit Plus X 54 300mm.
Lock front wheel to frame and railings/bike rack with OnGuard Brute X4 (LS) [save some money].
Disk alarm through chainring takes care of the required alarm.My reason for rejecting the Krabus XL202, is that the most expensive part of your bike is at the back, so that would need a stronger lock than Krabus make. An alarm only draws attention to a theft, but if a person has got through a lock quickly, then the alarm was not enough of a deterrent.
I substituted the OnGuard for the Kryptonite, as the specifications are nearly identical, and indeed, the OnGuard Brute beat the Kryptonite Fahg Mini in a Maxim magazine test a while back, but its much cheaper.
Thats it. Whichever options you choose, I hope I was able to help.
By the way, the German Amazon site have the OnGuard Brute Mini (f*cking awesome lock) selling on their site, so hopefully, they stock a variation of locks, and you get what you ultimately need. As long as you choose locks from the first post of this thread, that are 16mm or thicker, you will be fine. Oh yes, the legendary Abus Grant Plus X 54 is allowed in, because though its bar is stated to be 13mm, the bar is squared, so its closer to 15mm at longest point of dissection.
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I am left-eyed, left-footed, and always right-handed from birth. We can all be different.
I take some issue with the glowing praise of rangefinder cameras over the slr. True, it CAN be less obtrusive, but this is only in terms of noise. The claim that a rangefinder can compose better than a slr camera is as incredible to me, as is news of Martians landing on Earth and going straight to Buckingham Palace, where they ask for fish and chips, please.
I've lovingly used several rangefinder cameras over the years, and still have some, but no rangefinder composes better than a slr camera. Just to say/write the words, makes me feel in danger of being carted away by the men in white coats.
My favourite cameras I've used have been the Olympus OM1-n, and the Mamiya C33.
For speed of use, and critical composition, the slr wins. For friendly street portraits, the twin lens reflex was very hard to beat.
Also, regarding the OM1-n, in black especially, it was small and did not engender negative responses. That's my experience.
I have used mechanical only cameras for 99% of all the time I have ever used film cameras (I've never owned a digital camera), so it's not that I'm voting for modernity, but just saying that in composition, the rangefinder does not win, nor for speed of use.
Please feel free to flame away at me; It is what I expect from the rangefinder brigade (please remember that I am a user too; its just obvious that I don't sing from the same hymn sheet).
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For that type of bike, I'd suggest the Kryptonite M-18 at the back, and the Krabus VL202 securing the front wheel to railings/bike rack, and to your frame.
The battery creates a new concern for me, and possibly I'd look for an extra long good U-lock that would go through the frame and rear wheel, and also fit around the battery. From memory, I think the Xena XUL310 is longer, but difficult to source, and uber expensive. Consider also the Kryptonite Evolution-4 300mm and the Abus Granit Plus X 54 300mm as other longer versions.
So another solution would be: Abus Granit Plus X 54 300mm, at the rear, Kryptonite M18 at the front, and a disk alarm through the chainring. You could save money by getting a different lock to the M18, and for that I'd recommend the OnGuard Brute X4 (LS). Its nearly as strong as the M18, but less than half the price.
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Race is about to start. Rumour is that it may rain again during the race. If it rains heavily, I think Rosberg could win it. For some reason he was far ahead of the others when it was very wet. If its dry, it will be Vettel versus Hamilton and Webber, as usual. Massa could gate-crash the party, as will his formidable teammate.
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Starting Grid
S Vettel
M Webber
L Hamilton
F Massa
F Alonso
N Rosberg
K Raikkonen
R Grosjean
P Di Resta
J ButtonGood job by Di Resta, but Mclaren look really off the pace. Massa looked very good. But the rapidly drying track caught out a few of the big names. Perez was dire. Rosberg may be the fastest person when its raining, but when its dry, he is lacking just a little bit.
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http://kenrockwell.com/olympus/35rc.htm;
He says you should; though you will need these batteries.
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I've added to my answer above. I hope thats helpful. Locking via A), B), or C), will keep you secure. By the way, depending on clearances, it may by that the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini is the better option. Keeping gaps to a minimum is vitally important. Your choice.
These are all heavy options though. The best have to be.
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MrTimberg, I'm glad you find the thread useful.
Your budget is large enough to cover most combinations of locks. But straight away I must tell you that a cable lock is no good. Please don't use a cable lock at all.
I will try to answer your question fully, but I need to know the amount of weight your are willing to carry, and how you wish to carry it. If you use a very strong courier bag or hiking bag, then all locks will be fine in those. But in my opinion, the best options would be:
A main U-lock (16mm-19mm thickness)
Kryptonite New York M18 (my recommendation)A secondary U-lock (13mm-14mm thickness)
Krabus VL202An Alarmed Disc-lock (through your chain ring or seat stays)
Oxford Boss Alarm (my recommendation)
Xena XZZ6L (second choice)
So, combine them this way:
A)
Kryptonite New York M18
Krabus VL202 (big gaps on road bikes, so not for those)B)
Kryptonite New York M18
Oxford Boss Alarm (through rear wheel and seat stay, or downtube)C)
Kryptonite New York M18
Kryptonite Evolution Mini
Xena XZZ6L (through chainring - see photos attached)The photos are provided by clefty (on this site), who tested the Xena in this way.
And your country DOES sell Xena locks. This is your distributor:
O� Motokeskus - Mc
Paldiski mnt 80c, Tallinn
10617, Estonia
Tel : +372 656 7252
Fax : +372 656 7252
Web : www.motokeskus.ee
Contact : Raul Ebber -
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I like Webber, and would love to see him find the pace to outshine Vettel....
Tragically, I believe the simplest reason for Vettel's continued dominance over Webber in terms of speed, comes down to something as simple as weight. The cars weigh the same, and the power output is the same. But for all the horsepower available, its straight physics (well, biology and physics) that since Webber is taller than Vettel, if of the same approximate fitness levels and fat percentages, he will weigh more. He does therefore weighs more, and that, to me is what makes Vettel look good against him. I think Webber works harder than anyone to keep his weight down to the barest minimum, but he can't shrink bone, and will always be heavier.
Poor guy, he always looks gaunt, with his cheeks deeply sunken in, whereas the other drivers look normal. They haven't got the weight disadvantage to battle that he does.
Shorter, lighter drivers favoured by use of KERS.
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Which grey button? I've looked, but I've not known of this before......