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Got you, that sound like a tricky routing!

Can tell you it definitely can be done, just much harder in a home workshop.

Love it, I’m toying with it as I liked the 36mm but foolishly think it’s too small (!) and sold it.

Just gotta see how it is with nato strap

Hammer!

In seriousness, loosen the main bolt, wack it with a hammer to “pop” the bottom conical washer out of the expander, then pull out the top conical washer.

Sometime just popping the lower conical washer is enough but worst case, both need removing.

Was this attempt with the ports removed for greater flexibility?

I feel you, I did attempt this the first time many years ago before realising a better way.

That’s how it is really, mechanics learnt best when they make a mistake.

Kinesis GTD v3

Just saw the frames, it should be ok? the housing enter the top of the downtube and exit the bottom of the same downtube right?

(forgive me, it look straightforward to me cause we work on those kind of upgrade for decades).

We did a lots of expander replacement when there's a recall on the Tarmac SL7 not long ago, it's not a conventional expander that we're used to hence why it appear to be quite tricky.

Good call going to your LBS thought, when in doubt, best to go to them than try and attempt it further and risk voiding the lifetime warranty.

Avoid muc off wet lube like the plague.

So just the brake levers?

I’ve not had a compression-less housing being tricky on internal frames yet, what frame is it?

Use a combination of compression-less and normal housing using housing connector.

Had some bike where distance from rim brake caliper to cable stop is so short that the compressionless housing doesn’t allow it to move, putting normal housing there but compressionless from lever to cable stop retain the sharp powerful braking.

It’s normal, take a bit of careful wiggling to get it out.

I kept forgetting you’re on the light green bike and not on the old Genesis!

Got paid a little overtime and currently discounted, 35mm is just right.

Any 18mm strap recommendations that look good? Grey? Blue?

Are they’re short reach caliper brakes?

The price and sizes really pushing it a bit, they look good, just a grand is pretty high.

Land Rover/Army collaboration always seemed like an ick.

Today a funny day, don’t know why it took a while but I’ve realised that those in labour jobs tend to have smaller watches, but those in office jobs have gigantic watches.

After using a 34mm, I wanted a smaller digital one that’ll look smart, Casio tried and tested one is super comfortable, the bracelet is much more comfortable than the Tudor BB58 I used to have.

Tiny watch bug hit (plus the Rotary need a service).

Got enough to put down a deposit for a flat!

If you can, get a GRX derailleur, or long cage 105 R7000.

I can’t comment on 5800 as haven’t made upgrades on those for quite some time, the R7000/GRX design allow you to get away with it.

edit - just found a thread on stw forums that suggests 11-40 cassette and a roadlink would also work.

Nah, can run 105 with 11-40 without roadlink, best to test to make sure the derailleur hanger of said bike allow this.

I’d wait until you get a bigger gearing.

I have a 38t but does find myself spinning on the road but perfect off road.

Okay, so I’m gonna chim.

Both of you and @MCamb is right.

Sanding down rotor does do the trick, sure it may feel rough and horrid until it start to wear in, it can also contribute to the pads wearing out a tiny bit faster until it wear in with the rotor, performance might not be 100% as it once was, but does the trick.

It’s also doesn’t always work, sometime I’m lucky, other time it squeal and need further sanding.

In our workshop, it’s always better to just quote new pads and rotors if it’s contaminated because we can 100% offer our guarantee that it will work and completed in a timely manner.

On MTB, people aren’t that fussy as long the brake work better, we often sand down the rotor and put new pads but it really a case by case basis.

Mechanics are not cheap, they work on £60/hour (or complexity of jobs), it’s much cheaper at the time to go for a new pads and rotor, and never have to come back until the next service/fuck up.

Don’t forget to register for lifetime warranty.

Don’t get it, buy Shimano BR-R353 mini-v, compressionless cableset and barrier adjuster.

That’s all you need to get a great feeling brakes that’s sharp and almost as strong as hydraulic.

It’s what we fitted on customer’s bicycles that have cantilevers in our workshop.