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Tricky one - usually the other way round in which I would say turn it upside down and pour in caustic soda...and wait.

Problem is any real force on the stem (ie putting it in a vice or using a breaker bar is likely to ruin it.

If the frame really is junk then you could try a severe dose of heat to the head tube (a blowtorch may not be enough). Failing that cut vertically down the head tube with a hack saw from the bottom to just before the base of the stem and prise apart the tube with wedges in the cut.

Seems a real shame though.

This it?

http://i7.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/c3/aa/85d9_1.JPG

Doesn't look *that *tight...wheels look too small if anything! ;)

It's called toe overlap and is common on (proper) track geometry frames - that's what you get with tight angles. Doesn't mean that you have been 'done'.

Oh ho!

http://armourtex.tripod.com/services.html

If it is a bike to be used and not hung on the wall then powder wins hands down every time. If you want the best, shiny showroom look with endless choice of colour blends, lining and fancy finishes it has to be wet paint (Argos). But for a far more durable, everday good value finish it has to be powder.
Any decent local coater should be able to do a frame for around £30 - £40 and the finish will be super durable compared to wet paint. This subject comes up all the time, bit late for you I am afraid but this might be of interest:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16647

I'm trying to find a decent (bike friendly) coaters in London but if you don't mind a few quid postage then these guys come recommended:

http://www.triple-s.co.uk/

eyebrows just a quick question here. Could you use a rear MTB hub in order to fixify an old MTB?
You know, by reversing the rear hub, and bolting the cog to the disc holes on the hub?
i.e.:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3987
And if so- would that work for any horziontal drops?

eh?!

Errr, see my opening post and pictures. And here too:

http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/2292/evening-everyone-new-here-ss-sometimes-fixed-mtber-with-fuji-track-qs/#Item_21

hippy - call these people:

http://onlinebikes.com/catalogue.aspx?ProductID=5210

Previously Wades Cycles (big online MTB/BMX dealer)

They are a few miles from me and have 15t DX's in stock - picked one up yesterday!

£2.95 and postage is free.

I wouldn't worry one tiny bit about the dishing - there is so much bollox talked about a non dished wheel being much stronger than a dished wheel. In the real world most of us MTBers run horrendously unevenly dished wheels over rough terrain with zero problems.

They will work fine on your Deore Freehub. Nice quality, similar to the Surly cogs.

You might not want a 20 though that will give a 66" compared to your 83" gear now. 49/18 will give 73"

Those are On-One made for a splined Shimano freehub. If you have a Shimano compatible freehub the cheapest option (and good quality too) is a Shimano DX (BMX) steel splined cog - £2.95 each. They are 3/32 but work with 3/32 or 1/8

As per title please.

Heck of a lot more expense though and from what I have read quality ain't always all it should be, cogs are very proprietary too...

Still, some interesting comparisons here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338973&highlight=level

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=86278&highlight=level

Does anyone know if the Specialized 23.8 will 'stretch' round a constant diamter 26.0 bar? They do a 30.8 too which could be shimmed I guess. If anyone is looking for a pair I saw them in Cycle Surgery Holborn, £15 I think.

You can get these shipped to UK for £15 too:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260177241798&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=016

Yep, as in my post a front hub mounted this way gives a 40mm chainline with cog against mount. On a front MTB (same 100mm OLD as road) the disc sits 10mm inside the front fork mounting face. Washers can be placed in between cog and mount to fine tune a few mm's (see pic above).

The outer position of a road double will give a 46mm chainline on a 111mm BB. A 107mm BB will give 44mm. Use the inner postition for 41mm with 111 BB. Just a thought - picked up a barely used Veloce double Campag chainset for £20 the other week. A new Campag BB is £12. Use the 39t with a 15t out back for a 70" gear. Just an option - and cheaper than a new hub/build...

Warning - rambling post...

Been doing some searching and this does not seem to have been discussed much on here but looking at the forum below:

(type 'stripped' and search titles only, then return)

http://www.bikeforums.net/search.php?f=178

There are pages of people who have stripped their hubs - obviously there are plenty of idiots but plenty who have used top notch gear, installed everything super careful by the book and still come a cropper.

I'm from a MTB background in which equipment has been refined to the n'th degree in the last 15 years - seems though that fixed wheel bikes in the main still rely on a few fine threads on a cylinder of soft aluminium to hold a hardened steel cog in place.

What do others think? Obviously it is still used on the real velodromes presumably without incidence (due to high levels of equipment, installation - and lack of severe back pressure braking??) but in the real world on the street?

I posted up some pics of my offroad fixie that uses an ISO (6 bolt disc) mount drilled cog before and I am considering using a similar system on a road fixie:

I first got the idea from this site a couple of years ago:

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/tomchow/dischub/

The beauty of this is it has to be just about the most solid way to mount a cog and cogs are easy to change with an allen key. Downside is either sourcing or drilling your own cogs - more on this here:

http://www.londonfgss.com/discussion/2419/?Focus=64214#Comment_64214

On a road bike with 120 spacing the idea is to use a 6 bolt *front *MTB hub for the rear, ideal choice is a Shimano XT M756.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3986

These are perfect - XT hubs are double sealed for offroad use, bullet proof, large flange and run on standard (but high quality) cup and cone bearings. However, best of all (apart from being silly cheap for the quality - £23 at CRC) is that they run a standard 10mm axle. Thus, any standard solid 10mm rear axle can be installed and a 10mm spacer added each side to space it to 120mm as per track frames. In addition the chainline on a cog mounted this way brings it out to about 40mm. A couple of spacer washers allows fine tuning to 42mm or whatever...

Bearings spaced out a bit you might say? Ahh, a front hubs bearing are no further apart than an MTB rear hub with 135mm spacing.

Stress on a ISO mount with the cog? Can't see it - these XT hubs are capable of 40mph + pro downhill descents on 45 lb bikes with 6 pot callipers straining on eight inch rotors - that's got to be more force than the average joe twirling the pedals at 20mph down a London side street?!

For the front wheel why stick with a track hub? Again an XT front hub (non disc this time) is available for £12 at CRC, is much lighter and thinking is, a small flange on the front may give a bit more comfort to the wheel...?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10356

Other downsides may be asthetics I guess?

Any thoughts?

And are bushed I believe, at least at one end...

Used SPDs since '92 so I'm a bit biased but like most things from the big S they work brilliantly and are relaible. Heard so many woes re; Eggs, especially bearings failing and pedals falling apart at the worst moment...

Sorry!

Middleburn cranks and Royce BB.

Cheapish not though...

Think I've found a good fat bullhorn:

http://www.profile-design.com/products/base-bars/stoker-26/

Good width and 26mm diameter all around , £20 at Ribble.

the-smiling-buddha http://www.benscycle.net/images/RB-018%20HT%20Blue1.jpg

I just bought these, I dunno if they are any good, they look nice though, very clean looking..;)

They are the heat treated Nittos - normally grey, very smart in blue... Standard diameter though. I'd go for them too if no sucess with the 'fatties'.

The Swallow is really nice - good bit of 'spring' in it and beautiful looks, not cheap though.

Ahh, but these weren't all 'fangly dangly shapes all over the place' like those - just a lovely traditional curved drop all one univeral fat diameter tube.

Some million pound bike in Condor I saw today had some lovely fat tt drops but in carbon. Really wide diameter tubing all over (not just the centre stem bulge area) which suited my fat hands.

Is there anything more modest in alloy like this - either full drops or preferably bullhorns?

BTW, anyone know who does Condor's paint?