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That looks like a chunky 25mm tyre!
I have run SKS guards with 25mm tyres on a racing frame. 10mm of clearance between the brake and the tyre should be enough to get a few mm gap between the guard and tyre.Make sure you get the right width guard for the tyre size, larger widths may not fit between inside your brake caliper or frame between the chain stays.
As long as your wheels are true and tyres have minimal tread (so they don't get stones trapped) you can keep the guards really close to the tyre without any problem of fouling.
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For info:
Any further info on rides from the "Pier Head" will be at - http://www.londonfgss.com/thread28797.html -
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Sorry, can't help ID the frame but it looks like it would be worth putting some work into. Should be a good ride if you can restore it.
BB is an interesting problem. I don't think the tool you suggest would be the right one for the job.
Is the BB lockring Metal? I can't make out from the pics if it is metal or plastic.
If it is metal, you should be able to get some large Mole grips or stilsons on it to get it turning. Make sure you are turning it the right way! If it's plastic and a bit brittle you may be able to chisel the lockring out. I doubt that a plastic lockring would have been used on a 531 frame originally. The BB is probably not original.Good luck
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You lot have seriously got the road riding bug. It all sounds like a different language (2500m of climbing, WTF is that all about?).
I am really tempted to get some long miles in after doing a 4hr stretch to Telford last week, but the time commitment is going to be massive to get my fitness up, and I can't afford another bike.
I've got some hard thinking to do...
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Thanks for the ride to Formby last night guys.
It was good to get out and meet you all, I'll be removing all the sand from my drivetrain tonight.I'm still impressed by that old guy at the pub.
The twisty ride back to Ormskirk without lights was a bit crazy, especially getting dazzled by headlights and not knowing where the kerb was at 20mph!
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The cup screws on fine, It indeed appears to be just the lock ring.
What's the odds on both the cup and fork shrinking, and to exactly the same size?
It's either a freak event - one in 1,000,000,000,043 or..
- your locknut is the wrong one
- you stripped the locknut threads when removing it
- locknut never fitted properly in the first place and was just held on by rust/dirt.
- the portion of thread on the steerer that the locknut screws on is worn and now you can't tighten it properly, but the rest of the thread is fine so cup is fine.
Hard to tell without pics.
- your locknut is the wrong one
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That's a good looking frame.
I have a 1989 Raleigh Centenary (531c too) and the tubeset and braze-ons look identical. As de Selby says it's a nice ride - so smooth.
Last week I did two rides of about 50 miles, one on Fuji Track with Charge spoon saddle, the other on the Raleigh with a well broken in Brooks B17 special, the difference in ride was astounding. Fuji: tight but smooth, but my butt was tender afterwards. Raleigh: a lazy, plush ride that I could have added another 30 miles to and not noticed.
For steel, 531c is a such a comfortable and light tubeset but you dfo get some frame flexing when out of the saddle.
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Hmm, weather's looking totally shit for tomorrow. Went out the other day on my new/old Harry Quinn and got the fastest lap I've ever done round sefton park. It's a 79" gear, nowhere to hide, just gotta keep pushing it.
What gear does the Fuji have chris?
Sorry for not replying earlier, been a bit busy this week.
My Fuji's running 68" at the mo. As standard they're about 82"
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BTW, going back to the question of whether to wipe the HD and do a full disk install of Linux...
My personal choice for a 160Gb HD on a laptop is to have:
partition 1 - XP (NTFS) 25Gb
p2 - Fat32 80Gb for shared storage.
p3 - Linux Swap 2Gb
p4 - ext2 100Kb (boot partition backup)
p5, p6... - split the rest between various Linuxes.Trouble with reusing a /home partition is that some of your settings from previous installs get carried over into new distros, messing them up slightly. I'd advise just backing up your /home and reinstalling the bits you need (such as firefox bookmarks etc)
I have done something like this in the past:
100% XP partition resized to 50% (GParted), add 50% ext3/ReiserFS, copy over files to new partition, resize new partition to 100%. It worked, but I wouldn't have liked doing it without a backup of evrything beforehand.USB external drives are so cheap now, you could pick one up for about 30GN and have peace of mind.
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Good to read all your comments on different distro's. My fave for the last couple of years has been VectorLinux. Having tried RedHat 7.?, 8.3, then some version of Debian, followed by Kubuntu, Xubuntu and Ubuntu Feisty, I was looking for a distro for an old laptop and desktop and stumbled across VectorLinux 5.1 - Wow, it was fast on my old hardware!
Since then I've dabbled with Puppy, DSL and Ubuntu again but kept going back to Vector.
Vector 5.8 has been my platform of choice at home and for a special application at work (vitualised on Windows Server to be used as a bombproof SFTP server), it's been so simple and consistent to install and configure.Just bought a netbook (Samsung NC10) with XP on and repartitioned for triple boot. Thought I'd give Ubuntu Jaunty netbook-remix a go, although it looks good it has screen refresh problems and can't get wireless to work. Enter VectorLinux 6.0... once again, it just works and is fast and looks good too!
Going to try Arch when I get the time. Triple boot for maximum tinkering time.
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I know someone on here about the same height as you, he's got a 54" and loves it.
I'm a couple of inches taller (5'10") and also have a 54", it's fine for me too, but I could have got either a 54 or 56 and still been happy.I've swapped the 110mm stem for a 90mm, the 110 felt too stretched out when riding more than a few miles.
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Shell width doesn't tell you everything. I have a 1963 Carlton frame that is British threaded (24tpi, not 26tpi) and the width is 70mm also. Yes, you can use a standard 68mm BB, it just means the left hand lock ring of a sealed BB doesn't screw in as far but still supports the BB.
Your chainline may be slightly different to what you expect, i.e. 1mm out, depending if the BB shell is 1mm wider than it should be on each side or if it is offset.
I have used a Sugino 103mm BB, Shimano 118mm BB (UN54?) and a BB from a Fuji Track all in his frame and all have worked fine.