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we need to find the dice man... and what about the tax? do we crash at the dept. of work and pensions? and more than once?

wintermute it's all about gatorskins and slime self-healing tubes...

it's funny because according to what it says on conti's tin i'm not supposed to have to pay for the slimy tubes! in other words i'm sticking with vittoria.

slime strips suck because they line up on basically the outermost part of your whole wheel increasing rotating mass and that's where you suffer. vittorias have much better acceleration in general because they don't actually put that much rubber on the tread, quite a lot thinner than the other ones, esp spesh armadillos.

cheers dude will get the dollar note out and snort

i second RPM and 31. get another seatpost.

i tried the beer can didn't work very well seatpost bit takes too much stress my beer cans are reduced to a paste with the grease and eventually works loose again, so it can only be a temporary solution. beer can shims in my opinion are only for places that doesn't take so much stress e.g. fitting a 25.4mm track bar to a 26.0mm clamp stem.

Build They look sweet as, Tub rims always look so fucking sweet. I've never ridden them. Anyone here ride em with no brakes? Skidding on a mad high pressure tube held on with tape or glue, and the obligatory dirty London rain sounds lethal.

odge from fixed gear london does it on his gipiemme tub disc wheel. guess not in the rain though.

have left my lock out in the rain overnight twice in a row, now the locking bolts are getting rusty and it's getting hard to turn the key... tried soaking with loads of GT85 it hasn't improved the situation. seeing some of you have quite a good knowledge of using chemicals i'm wondering if anyone's got any idea what i can use to dissolve the rust keeping the steel bolts intact? or any other thing i could try?

let me see you lace record hubs onto deep v's i'll kill ya. serious.

+1 for ambrosio or cxp33 silver. if you can find campag atlantas even better.

it's definitely worth getting better rims on the record hubs you wont regret it.

what about open pro CD? de-stickered they should look pretty much the same?

i have a pair of open SUP CD 36hole on a bike but unfortunately they are not for sale... and an open 4 cd with brake marks and a bit bent...

those corsa ones are only meant to last one race...

i agree the formula nuts are shit but it does seem like you need a better wrench, i've got the same hubs and never had any problem with rounding of the nuts.

for a vivalo you'll probably want to wait for a 110 NJS dura ace. they pop up on ebay every once in a while...

or, yes, get a phil and get the kit from asm. that seems the quickest solution for now. the sjs sovos seem to be finished... think they sold their last remaining stock of those hubs, but these might work:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-SJSC-SJSC-Double-Fixed-Large-Flange-Track-Hubs-with-high-quality-sealed-cartridge-bearings--Polished-Alloy-finish--per-pair-36-hole-11137.htm

use threadlock.

i've almost managed to hit a ped once like this...

splatbucket I am now in the same boat, looking for an ok set of cranks, I recon i can spend about £100 on a set of cranks, BB, chainring (bout 38t ideally), and chain (1/8" btw)
Ribble it out of stock on its stronglight cranks until april which is too long for me to wait (bike is out of action till i find these bits)
Please help me, thanks

if you look for proper track cranks it's hard to find one that comes with such a small chainring. the smallest normally start at 42t. a sprocket isn't that expensive, maybe it'll be better to change the sprocket?

ones within your range:

sugino RD
miche primato
stronglight

what else...? cant remember from the top of my head

shimano BB will definitely be JIS taper.

and i said MIGHT work. no guarantees.

there's a reason why they're sold for 2quid i guess...
shimano ones for the old school dura ace or 600 might work. 105's are made of plastic. and they hardly ever come without the pedals, which, if you managed to get a pair of dura ace you'll want to chuck the miche into the thames anyway...

JOL I tried a Dremel. It was lame.

Same method. Might be anodised.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=3677840&postcount=38

cheers JOL, more excuse for beer :)

andrewleitch86 [quote]JOL Can pick up a slightly messy one cheaper and polish.

Yeah many people have polished 'em up very well. Most old campagnolo stuff seems to be very polishable.[/quote]

yes indeed!

i have a really tatty one what do i use to polish it? i've tried polishing it by hand it doesn't seem to be bringing out the shine... a dremel will do better?

i think with a stronglight on a 107mm JIS BB will give a 44mm (so called french standard) chainline. so with your 103mm BB (JIS i assume?) plus a shimano road chainring (thinner and more forgiving on the chainline) you should be able to knock it off quite close to your price range and have it running smooth.

Superprecise why 'Arup'? you work for them?

that's his real name, and it's a real name.

here's a better one...

yeah i was about to ask to same question... what font is that? it's neither helvetica nor akzidenz grotesk nor univers nor akkurat nor franklin gothic i'm totally stumped in the sea of fonts

lucky7 I am glad everyone is saying the gatorskins are good
I just hope they survive the smooth streets of new cross and deptford... ;p

i think most people here say gatorskins are crap? bontragers are better i have to say.

seriously lusting after the cinelli 2A stem...

not all of them are record. the record ones are lighter and look slightly different - the bolt to the rail clamp is exposed AND has the campagnolo emblem engraved where as the ones from other groupsets are different.

see this link:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-267620.html

oh and never ever use webfusion. or 1and1. i've never seen worse than these 2.