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I gave away a brand new black 1" head set to a certain chef on this forum a month or two ago.
Guess what I need now?Doh!
So if anyone has one for sale (black or silver) let me know - im in SE15 and work in N1 so can pick up from most places.
Alternatively i have various bits needing to go:
Profile Airwing Bullhorns, tekro levers, black and yellow conti 3000 tires (new) etc -
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Brilliant i'm up for it.
That ride will be excellent - all the pretty lights on the river and then running through the foot tunnels
(and up the stairs!)BUT ONLY ON ONE CONDITION:
You all have to PROMISE that you won't act like total pussies and back out if it rains again.
Also can we do it like 8 or 9pm so there's time for drinks and to go elsewhere afters? (it's my birthday
and i'll go a dancin if i wanna!) -
leeww When I worked in the west end I kept my bike downstairs in the basement, worked fine for around a year and a half until some officious tosser told me I could not keep the bike in the studio - I locked it up outside with two good locks, it was gone in an hour.
:(
I know it's not the done thing to ask this question but - purely our of personal interest what locks were they?
2 new york fuhg D locks or what?an hour.... shit!
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tallsam [quote]Mr Bungle Jake- the bolt's out and the wedge has dropped down so can't do that either..
Edmundane - It's definitely an "aluminium oxidising itself to steel" issue... no amount of coke or WD40's gonna do much i think..This has worked for me before but could damage your headset (possible but not likely).
Place block of wood on floor and underneath steerer tube (between forks). Place block of wood over top of stem. Take large hammer. Beat the shit out of it like it was Gary Glitter and you were a 3 year old.
No bent forks, force of hammer blows may eventually loosen oxiding enough to twist stem. It worked for me.
No guarantees though.[/quote]
Sounds risky but possible - replace dangerous twisty force with only ever so slightly less dangerous mashing force...
HOT DAMN, I LIKE IT! -
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Yup - my stem has oxidised itself to my steerer...
And yes I am a king sized lazy twat for riding it through the rain for 2
winters with no front mudguard and never quite getting round to a re-grease...Ideally does anyone have the tools/time/skills to help me carefully drill out
my steerer so that i can re-use the forks?Tips and offers of help most greatfully accepted!
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aidan [quote]photoben But I'm an adult now. I'm meant to leave it there...
i think me,ben and matt are in need of a spaced binge!! i have the 2 series box set:)[/quote]
I've found a family!
Aidan, will be calling you shortly.
Going down HH tomorrow morning if you are interested.Also definitely in need of a spaced binge - havent seen it in ages.
OH MY GOD!!! I'VE GOT SOME JAFFA CAKES IN MY POCKET!
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dicki i have a nice cinelli quill stem shiny silvery nice engraving on the top of the stem cinelli milano i think the reach is in the 80 to 100 region i'll measure and confirm size can be delivered anywhere in london
groovy!
let me know length & price you'd like and i can meet you halfway (or wherever.)
Cheers,
FTT -
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simontwosheds Mr Conan,
There is a difference between changing a chainring and a sproket. I don`t know the sums but the chainring controls the leverage (torque) which is not greatly affected by the sprocket until you get down to track sproket type sizes (14t).
Using a small chainring (39t or less) is good for low cadence pedalling. Attempting to spin such a gear is difficult because you need a lot of muscle tension to keep it smooth and comfortable.
Using a large chainring (above about 41t) promotes a spinning cadence, because the leverage is low and resitance is more even around the pedal circle.
A 46x18 gear and a 36x14 are both about 69", but when used througout a range of pedal speeds they would feel quite different from one another.Balls.
Sorry.
Still balls.
diameter?[/quote]
Sorry they are 25.4 and 40cm.