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My B17 was good within a couple of days, maybe 40-50 miles. It took a bit longer to fully fit itself to my 'sit-bones' but it was still comfortable all the while.
I think it helps if you can keep an eye on the tension (the spanner is about £3-4) - don't let it get too loose, but don't overtighten it either. I would also recommend that you give it a few coats of Proofhide top and bottom through the first week or so, and then every month or two afterwards (plus any time it gets really saturated and then dries out again).
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SMEEAR i hate wool, i find it totally itchy, exzema as a child saw to it that i would never wear wool, nowerdays im kinda scared of it, i just think it will itch me like crazy, but people say merino is totally different? anyone care to vouch for that?
anyone with wimpy skin find merino irritating?
i would lke to get something merino as it sounds perfectA lot of the merino stuff has a really fine tight knit almost like cotton which I find doesn't tickle or itch at all - I tend to find I have more problems with synthetic fabrics than anything else.
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eeehhhh [quote]MrSmith jeans and cotton are the 2 worst things to wear for cycling.
Hahaha it's what I wear everyday :)
When it's warm:
- Cotton T shirt
- Shorts (knee-length or 3/4 length)
When it's cold:
- Cotton T shirt
- Jeans
- Pedal harder
When it's really cold:
- Jumper
- Cotton t
- Jeans
- Pedal harder-er.[/quote]
...don't forget your gloves and hat!
- Cotton T shirt
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HED in 406! Buy your hub to fit your rim. 'Nuf said.
http://www.hedcycling.com/wheels/recumbent.php
... well you didn't specify a budget did you?
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JimL After buying my bike, I found out that my dad used to ride a fixed wheel bike around London back in the mid-'60s. I hadn't known about it until then and thought it was pretty strange that he used to ride for the same reasons as I do now. (Although I don't think the 52-13 ratio he used to use is practical with today's stop-go traffic!)
Exactly... and I've got a great uncle who used to ride a fixed at his club in the thirties, and he had an uncle who rode fixed around the turn of the century... and he.... (falls asleep at keyboard)
As above fixed wheel goes back as far as cycling.
Middle-class kids pretending that they get their style from black subculture... now that's a whole other topic...
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You said you fancied a Moulton... now's your chance: http://www.tsr.uk.com/bikes/tsr9.php
- reasonably light - however separable frame and rack fittings always make a bike heavier so not for the weight weenie
- separable frame - similar to couplers, but super stiff when assembled
- mudguard fittings as standard
- wide variety of racks including standard pannier carriers
- longevity - my AM is 25 years young and until recently I was riding a 45 year old Moulton Deluxe
- strong? it's a triangulated space frame!
- forward facing horizontal dropouts with a rear derailleur hanger standard 135mm spacing - all your choices are there including fixing it
- v-brake models are standard for the tyre choice - the dual pivot caliper models do compromise over tyre clearance
- reasonably light - however separable frame and rack fittings always make a bike heavier so not for the weight weenie
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Simon That little lot cost me £500ish. Which is too much really. But it's cool, anyway.
Beautifully understated - stealth in a much more subtle way than going for the black button on a black background approach. £500 may seem like a lot but you have the bike exactly as you want it which is priceless. Ride it and enjoy!
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leeww The thing that occurred to me while I was doing this bike up was that you simply cannot get your hands on 18" wheels, tyres or tubes, I tried everywhere, no luck :(
Not so my friend... your standard Riese & Muller Birdy runs on 18" rims which I believe are available in 24h, 32h and 36h. Add some slicks - 28 x 355 Schwalbe Stelvios, and you're rocking - try Bikefix / Condor / Bicycle Workshop / Velorution.
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dicki horrible why ride one of those when you can ride a nice aethetically pleasing properly sized one
the day i see a rider ride the tour de france on one then i'll think again ( but still think they look horrible )
that one above looks like it has nitrous bottles i presume for the rider rather than the engine ( because it doesn't have an engine )You ain't going to see that any time soon... I think the UCI changed the rules to ban Moultons dontcha know.
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- converting to fixed (16T cog, maybe switching chainset over to 1/8 - is it worth it?)
3/32" should be fine - but get a good quality cog, and maybe put on a new chain at the same time
- getting a Brooks saddle (not sure which one). Don't find the stock one comfy, think it's too narrow for my sit bones.
Brooks all the way - B17 is your standard route to nirvana
- replacing the bars and tape (Brooks to match seat?). Never use the drops! Can someone recommend alternatives?
You could try moustache bars if the width doesn't bother you
- getting clipless pedals and shoes (not sure which, I'm new to all this!)
Can't help you here - I'm running with clips
- Removing the decals - is this possible?
Sounds like a faff and could end up fugly - get it resprayed if it bothers you that much
- converting to fixed (16T cog, maybe switching chainset over to 1/8 - is it worth it?)
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Never mind San Fran, you better watch out for the next big thing... Flintstones stylie!
http://indonetwork.co.id/nature_gallery/539761/bamboo-bicycle.htm
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peejay78 it was me who described it as the "coldplay of the fixed world". although i think it's more like one of those horrible audi things driven by estate agents. i also got in trouble for saying that the new spazz wrongsters are a horrible, woeful exercise in specious marketing.
style over substance, the perfect bike for a media-mulleted ad-whore living in shoreditch, or possibly a foxtons estate agent, to place next to their grafittied mini. if cycling is the new golf then expect to find the langster in the white pages of golf punk magazine.
it's a vile bike, the white bar tape looks like a condom has been lovingly unsheathed over the end.
i am prepared to go further: if you ride this particular variant then you have no soul. even a genesis flyer is better. or one of the black wrongsters with the oh-so-funky gothic lettering.
Don't be shy... let it out... tell us what you really think. LOL [irony] The bit about estate agents though, don't you think that was a bit too harsh? [/irony]
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It was probably his friend I saw riding one of these at CM last month - laugh? I nearly cried. My main difficulty with it was trying to see it as being a serious bike. Yeah, I though it was ugly - but I suppose it has to be judged on its own terms i.e. more like a chopper with leopard skin seat, bar tassles, mirrors, spokey-dokeys and an antenna, but not something you would ever consider for serious riding - after all, you wouldn't want to scratch the paintwork.
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breglis It is a rythmical click...click (i.e. twice) on every revolution.
Revolution of what? The rhythm of the cranks is almost always different to that of the rear wheel which will be different to the chain itself. Work out that, and you are halfway to knowing where the problem is. Then it might just be a case of undoing things, cleaning and re-greasing the threads, and tightening everything up again. Now if I could just work out where that squeak was coming from...
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Two places you could try - either Campy Oldy, or Italian Cycle Products - mostly depends on whether you want the thinner locknuts for the older N-Record hubs, or the thicker ones for the newer C-Record hubs - getting the wrong ones will change your spacing by a few mm in case it matters. Campy oldy are more likely to do the old ones, Italian Cycle Products will probably only be able to get you the new ones. I think it helps with the newer ones if you can get the spare part order number from the service documents on Campags website. The track nuts themselves will pretty much be the same whether new or old.
http://www.italiancycleproducts.co.uk/
Good luck with it.
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what the fuck are you doing on this forum then!?[/quote]
:-D