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Leave 'em on until you stop needing them. Learn to skid, stop etc so you can ride confidently without ever touching your brakes and then, and only then, consider removing them.

You have to build up your skills and leg strength to go brakeless.

The question about brakes vs brakeless has been debated to death, but pretty much most people will need brakes on their fixed gears cause it really takes skill to ride brakeless 'safely'

Thats a pretty insane jump in prices. I remember talking to Barrie last year and it was about 1/3 of that for a frame.

On one hand, fair play to them - I really like Barrie and Witcomb have been struggling along for a long time, so its nice their business is booming again. On the other hand, I feel a little cheated cause Witcomb's are no longer affordable at all, if thats really the price.

My thoughts are pretty similar to Object17's:

i) Your rims are reet dirty and could do with a clean
ii) Or your pads aren't property aligned and are touching the rim all at once - though you'd normally get squealing throughout braking not just at the very end.
iii) Or they'll quickly wear in and the problem will just disappear (surface of pad could have been contaminated with something)

If its just a standard 1" steel threaded fork then you should be able to get the steerer threaded further. Trouble is finding a shop to do this as most didn't have the tools back in the day and definitely don't have 'em now.

I'd call Witcomb as they must have cutters. Barrie should at least be able to point you in the right direction.

Some of the 'big boys' must have them in stock: Trackstar, King Kog, Bicycle Habitat etc Heres Phils Dealers list for New York state:
http://www.philwood.com/pnewyork.htm

So there should be plenty o'options. Where the best deal is? Try asking over on NYCFixed or similar.

I'd always go with the Suginos:

1) They're pretty much the stiffest cranks you can buy
2) 144BCD standard - so anyone of 1000s of chainrings will fit. Unlike the Pauls which have propriety chainrings. (Although I did hear that Paul may make an adapator to run standard chainrings - so how much of any issue this is remains to be seen)
3) Designed for 42mm chainline - track standard

The Pauls are best suited to a sunday special bike - one you ride occasionally. The Suginos are best suited for everyday riding.

However, the Pauls are better looking than the Purple Suginos so its the age ol' style versus practicality debate. Only you can decide on that one.

Yeah, sounds like you may have shoved them out of alignment or bent the steerer. Best bet is Witcomb (Deptford) or maybe Ross @ Brixton Cycles.

Basically, they need to be checked by someone who knows what they're talking about and then cold-forged (ie bent) back into alignment - if its pos.

BTW Have you checked the handling of the bike with a different wheel in there? Could just be the wheel. Worth at least eliminating.

The plastic bit is just a washer. Its there to keep the crud out of your crank threads. Its definitely not going to ping/lock etc when you reach 35Nm. Thats what a torque wrench is for.

35Nm is not a huge amount for crank bots esp press-fit. Most cranks bolts are spec'ed around 305-391inch pounds (310 inch pounds is approx 35.0Nm)

There are two common type of brake cable ends - road (has a little mushroom) and mtb (round 'disc'). You need to get brake cable to suit your brake levers.

Dirty harry's for example use the round discs. The road brakes you've linked to will use the 'mushroom' type. You can though find some brake cables with both ends. You just remove the one you don't need.

Any bike shop will have brake cables and housing (worth replacing if its a few years old) for a few quid along with cable ends to prevent fraying.

It all seems a little suss. Hungarian seller, no real feedback, high shipping charges. They could all be genuine but I wouldn't risk it...

I'm a big fan of overshoes (you look like a bit of an idiot mind) but they'll keep most of the wet out while keeping your toes warm. I have pair of the Planet-X ones I picked up for cheap, really can't complain. If you've never owned a pair, then remember that most overshoes are designed to work with cycling shoes and clipless systems, so if you're running something different you may need to ask around, to find what works.

As Roberto says, you'll get wet anyway when its really coming down but at least your shoes don't fill up with water, which means they'll dry pretty quick and you avoid the worst of it.

Do you have any play in the hubs? Grab the rim, can you move it easily? Will get chatter if your hubs are loose - might have worn bearings etc. Have you check for broken spokes?

Lift the front wheel of the ground a few cm by grabbing the bars, when you drop the bike, is there chatter? Can you locate it?

Sounds like you do need to get someone who knows a little about mechanics to look at it. Try phoning around your LBSs to get it booked in for a service (or at least an apprasial). I'd happilly come and have a look at it for you, but I don't live in London.

If you're gentle on the wheel, it should be fine. However, pnce you snap one spoke, others will start going unless you sort the tension out.

I've been on bike tours where folks have ridden 30+ miles with broken spokes and they made it without too many problems. So slow down, stop jumping curbs and cross yer fingers.

Those bikes are born for the velodrome so you better start bringing that thing down to Herne Hill. Borrowed a friends once on a track in the US and you could really accelerate on it. Stiff, light and a fine track racing machine.

Not a huge fan of Alu frames normally but have a soft spot for the concepts. Nice score.

Yeah, pull it, bounce it, twist it and feel for vibrations (it being the fork). Try and avoid using the brakes to test for play, as the brake arms may introduce 'play'. You can still do it, but grabbing the fork is better.

See parktool.com:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127

1. Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. A knocking sensation indicates play. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There should be play at this early setting. If headset feels tight, loosen adjustment further until play is found. Use care with suspension forks, because the legs may have play in sliders. Grab upper portion of fork.
   

Walthamstow has a bike recycling project where you should be able to score a bike for about 50 quid. Don't know how easy it is for you to get over there.
http://www.lbwf.gov.uk/index/transport/parking-roads/road-safety-home/rd-safety/cycling/cycling-recycle.htm

I've had a frame repair from Barrie and yes he's very disorganised but his work is top notch. He's also great at sourcing NOS tubing/lugs, which is really handy for vintage repairs. Plus Barrie is a wealth of information and very friendly.

The other option not mentioned so far would be talking to Ross at Brixton cycles. He does the odd frame repair but he''ll probably just refer you to Witcomb.

People say that there are different designs of SPD cleats; some provide more release than others due to their design. Haven't used SPDs in a long time due to their occasional unwanted release so can't really add more than that. But I think Shinamo pedals have two types - one black and one silver?!? Anyone know what I'm talking about here?

Although, some of this may have something to do with your technique as well.

Clips and straps work great but suffer from a loss of pedal engagement and will highlight any toverlap you may have (experience may depend on how large yer feet are)

Just in case you don't really know what a lug is:

"A lug is a socket that forms the junction between two or more frame tubes. Traditional bicycle construction uses steel tubes and lugs, joined together by brazing or silver soldering so that the space between the tube and the lug fills up with molten brass or silver alloy. Some aluminum or carbon fiber bicycles also use lugs, with glue instead of the brass or silver.

Some frames use internal lugs, with a necked-down section that fits inside of the tube, rather than having a socket that the tube fits into."

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_l.html#lug

So you can't really remove a lug, as its an integral part of the frame, although they can be replaced by experienced framebuilders.

Small dents can be removed by rolling the tube between formed blocks or by suctioniong/gluing something to the dent and pulling.

As Mr Cheese said, I'd always question just what had happened to the frame and new tubes+paint are expensive.

You could also talk to Witcomb (south London) - they have someone they use for rechroming etc, might be cheaper than Argos as theres no shipping involved.

You could wait until the next Ripley bike jumble which is on Sun Oct 14th (I think, need to confirm the date). Can get the train from london and then ride the rest of the way (bit of a bugger to bring back a second bike though - so if you know someone with a car you could be laughing).

Normally quite a few decent frames and bits there.

Are you sure you had an integrated headset/frame/fork combo? What frameset is this from?

I just ask as most of the integrated stuff is 1 1/8", making 1" integrated forks (esp chrome) pretty damn rare and most likely custom.

Also because you're asking for 1" fork in Chrome for a Bianchi, I just wanted to check that you're not actually asking for a 1" threadless fork for a Bianchi Pista (ie not a Pista Concept)?

IMHO the Pista is a little nicer. However, if you're just riding them on the street, then the Fuji is a fine starter bike and saves you quite a bit of money.

Whatever you buy make sure the seller knows how to tighten a cog+lockring.

There is no line. People just post stuff they consider of interest to LondonFgSS community. However, people tend not to post stuff they're directly bidding on :)