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I thought the question was how to kill “a Bitcoin” which is very easy … send it to an address for which the private key is not known. Like the Bitcoin eater address.

Home made batch … 10/10 obviously … 😉

Reminder bump that I still have this looking for a new home ...

Dibs on No.1 please. Will PM

Just one of the dudes in hi-viz who hang around at each end of the bridge - to be fair their main job seems to be asking cyclists to get off and walk so I imagine they may not be very close to the detailed plan ...

I asked yesterday they said it would be open for cycling again … “soon”.

Fair condition Topeak Disc specific rack.

The feet where it fastens to the frame have been filed away a bit (this was to clear the wheel nuts on my Boardman).

Adjustment nuts and bolts look a bit rusty, likely seized.

Free if you collect from Barnes, SW13 (or reasonably nearby).

Aaargh: how do you edit the title? Obvious typo is obvious.

That really is stunning, would love to be able to justify it.

Thanks very much for the input.

You are absolutely right it is not in any way a period correct bike it’s been developed and (I hope) improved over the years; sometimes for upgrades and most often because of need - definitely been a bike for using not coddling. And yes it is lovely to ride.

Reason for selling as you surmise is I just don’t like to think of it not being used. Because of where I store it, it’s a moderate pain to get it out and so the incentive to use it is low.

I never thought I would consider selling this bike but now slightly thinking about it, and would appreciate some advice on pricing.

Its a Dave Yates Diablo, full rigid MTB, Columbus Cromor tubing; Pace RC30 forks; with a very mixed groupset: XTR RapidFire Plus (3x8); XT V brakes; XT 175mm cranks (chainrings 46/36/26); Deore FD; 8 speed XT RD; Mavic CrossRide 26" wheels; PanaRacer FireXCPro tyres; Ritchey bars; Crank Brothers 110 mm stem; BBB seatpost; Shimano M424 pedals; Flite titanium saddle (that I might keep).

Seat tube is 51cm c-t-c; top tube is 59cm c-t-c. As you'll note from the saddle and bar positions its always been just a fraction small for me.

I've had it since the mid 90s and its been back to Dave himself twice for refurb and repaint. The last time about three years ago. Refurb has included removing old and then fitting cable guides to run all the cables along the top of the top tube; removing the "flying" bridge for canti brakes at the rear; switching to aheadset style headset, including modding the Pace fork steerer; adding rear rack mounts.

Think I've ridden it properly once in the last 2 years, though in the past its done C2C, the Way of the Roses, Sustrans Route 4 and countless mtb outings with mates. Its been part of my cycling life but I think I'd like it to go to someone who would actually use it.

So what to ask?

Yep a LBS had some - a couple of super thin ones seems to have solved the problem.

Thanks for all the help.

The crown race is integrated to the fork.

Re. The low stack cover - yes maybe - will look at that, might need a spacer or a slimmer cover.

Unfortunately I have re-assembled it without taking a picture.

However what I have is:

At the bottom - just the bearing; the shells are integrated to the fork/head tube

At the top (reading up)

• bearing
  
• Split ring thing
  
• 46x4 low stack headset cover (from gbj_tester)
  
  

Above that I have a steerer tube spacer; then the stem; then another spacer; then the top cap.

You are right I took it all apart this morning, and its a sort of tapered split ring to locate the stem in the bearing.

Having cleaned everything thoroughly, re-greased and re-assembled I'm still really struggling to tension the headset in such a way that the forks don't move under braking but not so tight that the steering is binding. Any tips from anyone?

Ha! My main concern is the bit sticking up in the middle - pretty sure that his meant to be flush with the shell.

Was struggling with the headset of my recently acquired Arkose and so pulled the top bearing out - see picture.

I assume its not meant to look that and so I need some new bearings?

If I am reading it correctly (its a bit worn) the bearing has THMR 12 1 1-1/8 45 x 45 C9 on it.

Looking online it seems to be an FSA C40 ACB headset - any tips on the best source for new bearings?

Yes, subject to a couple of things I can't tell from your picture you almost certainly could:

a. crank fitting - my CB has a square taper bottom bracket fitted, if your cranks are not square taper you might have to swap your BB over as well - the CB is English threaded - edited to add having looked at the link, yes they are different so the bottom bracket will need to be swapped over, but they are the same fitting
b. brake caliper mounting - the CB has IS mounts, so might need adaptors to fit your calipers; or you could buy my calipers as well which have the adaptors already fitted or I could just take the adaptors off and give them to you - having looked, I see you have hydraulic brakes, so you'll just want the adaptors if you don't have them
c. seat post size - the CB is 27.2 - having looked they are the same size, so not an issue

Used but good condition pair of Aksium disc wheels. Appear straight and true to me.

700c of course; includes used but decent condition 11-32 Shimano 9-speed cassette; 6-bolt discs; original Mavic QR skewers; Mavic rim tape.

£75 collection from SW13. SOLD.

All the bits I took off my Boardman and don't need:

a. Avid cable brake levers with cables (though probably best to replace the cables) - £10
b. Ergon adjustable grips/bar ends - £10
c. Shimano BR-M416A Cable Disc brakes; post mount; with fitted pads and several spare sets of pads (think there is one more set not pictured) - £30
d. Mighty 172.5mm square taper double crankset; 50x34; worn but good condition - £20
e. GUB G-81 - eBay phone holder, works well - free with anything else
f. Shimano Sora 2x9 flat bar shifters; VGC, working well; with cables (again probably best to renew the cables) - £20 - dibs for billygoat28
g. Ritchey slightly swept flat bars; 58cm; 31.8mm - £10 - dibs for billygoat28

Prices for collection from SW13, happy to post at cost.

Happy to take more pictures if wanted.

** all now moved to eBay **

Well used Boardman CB Comp aluminium frame and forks. Includes FSA headset (bearings need refreshing); Ritchey 120mm stem (maybe +/- 10 degrees not sure); square taper bottom bracket; seat clamp.

Dimensions: Seat tube 50 (c-t-c) 54 (c-t-t); Top tube 59 (c-t-c)

I guess that is a medium, I am 6'3" and its been OK if always a little on the small side for me. For sale as I got a larger frame on here.

QR dropouts on front and rear forks; external cable routing; IS disc brake mounts.

On the underside of the down tube it says: "Geometry: UCG Urban Compact Geometry; Frame: AI/T6HT (2XB Double Butted Tube) Model: COMP"

Its in decent condition with no dents, but the paint is chipped all over; as far as I can tell Boardman used melted down jelly babies for paint it is so soft.

Currently recorded on Bike Register, will transfer to new owner of course.

No idea what to ask, so how about £100 collected from SW13. ** SOLD **

More pics available if you want.

I have most of the bits I stripped of it (except those I needed to build up my new frame) for sale as well.

What an amazing read.

Thanks for your help.

Rightly or wrongly I have managed to feed the cable outer all the way through the frame and out of the end of the chainstay so that is what I have done.

Pinnacle Arkose cable routing question.

How do I use this “opening” on the LHS of the down tube? It has a tiny plate that screws into place with just a plain hole in it. I think it should be for the rear derailleur but cannot see how to use it. There is no cable stop in a suitable place, and the cable guide under the BB shell looks like it is for just the cable with no housing.

Is there a part missing? And if so wtf did they do it like that and not just put an angled opening suitable for a cable stop like they did on the RH side of the down tube?

Thanks!

Thanks very much! Shame about the RM strike which I guess delayed delivery?

(Must confess I didn't even realise this thread existed until you tagged me.)

What actual task is it for as sushi is the rice … do you actually want a knife for sashimi, i.e. slicing fish?

If so I’m not sure there is a single knife for all tasks, but we have a Wusthof 16cm filleting knife that is a reasonable jack of all trades, like this:

https://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-wusthof-classic-fish-filleting-knife-16-cm-1040102916.htm

But it’s too flexible for boning a big fish and not up to a really large fillet like salmon.