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I will need some new rads and pipework fitted, will need new pipe run starting from cut pipes in one room and then then out and return with 5 rads but done in 2 stages.
Pipework with tails at correct spacing for rads, then once I have boarded over the pipes, rads and valves fitted, system filled and balanced.
Silly question but do heating engineers get their hands dirty or do they just fit Hive/Nest/Tado for an easy life these days? -
i guess it depends on where in the insulation that pipe is.
Im going to fit 67mm kingspan k118 and as the boards are not quite tall enough for the room I’m leaving a space for the pipe runs with a thinner k118 board at the back leaving enough room for the pipe run, cutting back the 12mm PB on the thicker board leaving PIR exposed so i can bond a 9mm sheet to that and a 2x1 nailed to the floor to cover the pipes and then a skirting board over that. -
New aluminium windows were 25k and nobody would take that job on as the reveal would need to be cut back and 6 stories of scaffolding needed plus no sill projection allowed by Dulwich estates even if they gave us permission to change them.
So it’s internal insulation and secondary glazing.
New sills (stools if being pedantic) are not that expensive as we will be using offcuts from a granite dealer. -
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Thanks, will add that to todays order, bolster is more bang bang and I want gentle persuasion.
@TW would love to but we are adding 60mm of insulated plasterboard so it’s not deep enough, will be fitting some kind of granite in its place.
Shame to lose it as its’s made of blue/red chips with sparkles which I presume is glass. -
I need a pry bar but not a wrecking bar to remove this terrazzo window stool which is in 5 pieces and 4.5m long.
The smaller ones seem to be for nails or ‘trim’ and look a bit lightweight, is there one for this job? Possibly with some kind of mortar scraper? Managed to carefully lift the first one with a bit of hammer persuasion as don’t want to damage the window, used a screwdriver to lift it this far but H&S do not approve the inappropriate use of tools. -
have 3 floors to sand and oil, one is stripwood iroko, the other 2 are bedrooms with pine which was carpeted.
plan is to stain a darker/redder colour to go some way towards matching the iroko floor.
The pine is tongue and groove nailed to joists with narrow gaps of about 2-4mm, not sure what to fill them with? if i use sanding dust and resin it will likely be too light, seem to be various products out there ready mixed and coloured but no idea if they are any good?
having typed this out i may have answered my own question and could use the iroko dust to make it darker but would use an off the shelf product if they are any good? -
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Will post pics tomorrow but i have window reveals that have blown plaster in a few places round the window frames (steel crittall) hacked out the soft stuff and the rest of the plaster looks and feels fine and the masonry isn't crumbling.
Think the problem was made worse by a couple of bodges, one where the lining paper/paint has obviously lifted and bubbled so it has been badly cut back and then filler and painted over, on scraping off the remaining paper and filler i got to the brown fluffy paper that's hard to strip and some black mould, the paper obviously held on to moisture which didn't help.
Also the top light has been badly siliconed as a remedy to draft proofing but has only made the problem worse, i could see grey fluff around it which suggests dirt from outside getting in between the gap along with water blowing in (we found a small puddle on windowsill after the wind/rain) stripping the paint off and the silicone has already made the window shut a lot better.
Main point is what to fill those gaps with? seems a bit too deep to just fill with easyfill or plaster. Cement?I'm going to leave them to dry out if they can as the exterior of the windows are being done in a couple of months (6th floor so nothing i can do myself outside) and the reveal will be skimmed in the coming weeks.
Think there's going to be a few more questions for this thread...
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Just when you think it cannot get any worse, it does!?
We have just half an hour ago received the redemption statement/stock transfer deed for the purchase.
i'm sat in half empty flat in N4and partner is in my place SE19
turns out the transfer needs to be printed and countersigned before tomorrow morning FFS. we asked for the these as soon as we exchanged and then chased again on Tuesday and today, partner is currently in an uber heading to friend with printer, you would think due to to the lack of time they would have sent these pronto?.
any competent solicitor would....oh and the formatting of the PDF's was so screwed that the redemption statement made no sense and there was no explanation of why there was an early repayment fee listed (we are porting)
Oh and I almost forgot they have spelt the name wrong on the stock transfer deed, nothing surprises me anymore, i fully expect to not complete tomorrow and will probably just shrug my shoulders.
luckily the removals have storage and buyer is moving a day later on friday.
we seriously think they (solicitor) is doing this on purpose. -
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We are about to pay more than we though (2.4k not 1.6k we expected) with Grays in Hackney as i think somebody on here recommended them. other quotes were more or a little bit less but those quotes were not offering the same levels of service.
Every question has been replied with ‘not a problem’ ‘don’t worry we can do that for you’ and the reviews online all say how good the service has been.
this is for a full pack and move of a 1bed flat with not loads of furniture but a loft full of possessions that will half fill a garage plus taking as few things apart. no waiting charge if there is a delay with keys as some give you the option of insuring against this.
full pack on 1 day, move the next. N4 to SE19 4 men and 2 vans as the big one is on a long distance job. -
I had a new one of those from the Back2 shop with a mesh base, great chair and was comfy when i tried it in the showroom but my ass is so skinny that my sit bones were pushing the mesh down in 2 spots and touching the bar below as i sit far back and upright, a pie eater with padding would be fine as their weight would be distributed across a greater area of the mesh.
Ended up with an Orangebox DO which is good VFM and lots of adjustment. -
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Im after any recommendations for one that does nice neat pipe installs and fits fancy rads without scratching the finish.
SE area.