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I've mounted Michelin Power Road on my bike (in 28mm) and been very impressed with them - still look new despite having visited a fair few filthy country lanes and gravel tracks on them, feel grippy and stable even in the wet and don't feel really any more sluggish than Corsa Controls or the Veloflex they replaced. Not super cheap at 30-odd quid per tire but they do make them in 32 and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend 👍
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Sorry this will be very vague but there are some Muff based fuzzes with a mids switch or pot which will probably do the trick for you. Skreddy definitely does some, or you could mod an old school big box muff quite easily!
Also something like a Fuzz Face on steroids like the DAM meathead is a very good sounding stonery fuzz. Again, a few pedal makers make their version. Very simple DIY project too if you’re into that kind of stuff, and you could add a footswitchable pre volume to clean up/open the floodgates as needed...! Few model names and schems/layouts here: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/1-knob-fuzz-bonanza.html
@Brommers some gain pedal would be definitely an early purchase in my view, the Mosky Golden Horse off AliX for ~£16 making a VERY strong case for itself, then I’d jump head first into some echo and/or verb, but that’s me. It really depends a lot on what you fancy playing! It’s a great time to be alive in terms of effect pedals as cheap but perfectly fine clones are readily available so with under 100 quid you could put together a very decent little signal chain, which would have been mad only 10 years ago..!
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Update in case anyone cares/finds these posts by searching in the future: I've replaced the Veloflex Corsa 28 with Michelin Power Road 28 and one thing became very clear: the Corsas are an awful lot smaller than the Michelin, and possibly than most 28 tyres, both in width (the Michelins wouldn't even get past the open calipers when inflated) but especially in height.
Now I didn't get any issues with the rear tyre and that was fitted with a Schwalbe 18-28 inner tube, while the two tubes which blew out were Lifeline 28-32 and way bigger in size.
Long story short: chances are a 25mm rated tube would work absolutely fine and those Lifelines were a bit too big despite technically being the correct size. The Veloflex were always very easy to fit and it stands to reason also a little easier to pop out if pushed.
That said, the Michelin were an absolute pig to mount, so they're staying on for the time being, but I might give the Corsas another shot later in time with much smaller inner tubes which won't want to bunch up and/or push the bead out.
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Not tried that, but good idea. The tube “sticking” to the inside of the tyre was definitely a huge part of why they were so fiddly to fit so that sounds like the natural solution to that.
In the meanwhile I’ve pulled the trigger on a pair of Michelin Power Road as the reviews seem very good and make them sound like they could be a slightly less hardy but a little faster version of the Pro 4s - if that’s the case I’ll be chuffed!
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I have a Vox AC4TV, the slightly cheaper white one and it's a very decent amp, especially considering I paid £150 for it. I did a quick side by side with the Ac4C1 and I must say the C1 did sound a little better, probably a better speaker as much as anything as it rang a bit more and had a bit more clarity to it.
Ended up picking up the TV as I found a cheap one on eBay but have contemplated swapping for a C1 on and off since. Must pop into a store to A/B them again at some point. Or maybe not and put more cash in my savings...
@Alan_tbt did you end up pulling the trigger on that delay? I always get more excited than I should about cheap pedals. Speaking of which, I think I will be getting myself a Moskey Silver/Gold Horse off Aliexpress after hearing it A/B'd with some other stupidly expensive Klones...
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18mm internal (These ) - Veloflex indicate their tyres work as per the ETRTO chart, so the 28s should go up to 19 internal. My impression is that the tube might bunch up inside as they feel incredibly snug - this was with bigger tubes for 28-32mm tyres, so maybe downsizing tubes for 20-25 range might help? 🤔
@miro_o did a lol 😂
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You will, but if your tyres have never displayed a tendency to unseat and let the tube burst out off the side they are highly unlikely to have anything to do with it. For me, twice in a 50km ride (and twice before in the last month or so) seems high enough a hit rate to start questioning it.
Weird thing is, rear tyre has been fine, so wondering if I have a dud at the front? I'd really love for them to seat and work as they're great tyres and used and loved by many - really comfortable and do feel nice and fast - but I'm sure I couldn't help but feel a little anxious using those with my wheels!
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So having to step up my search for a replacement set of tires - earlier I'd asked about a fairly fast and robust 28mm set to replace my pretty new Veloflex Corsa for extra puncture protection, now I'm having to as the Veloflex clearly don't like my rims - twice I had a side blowout yesterday and had another one a week or so ago. Not taking any other chances and sadly I don't have any narrower rimmed wheels to play safer. Might stick those for sale later (with a full disclosure about the seating issues).
Very tempted by the Michelin Power Road as they review very well and don't break the bank but part of me dies a bit at the thought of abandoning tan wall in the name of being sensible (and other tires which would normally be available in tan not being available because covid).
Decisions decisions... 🤔
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suspect that the Yamaha would be best quality overall
That would be my hunch as well. Classical guitars do have massive flat wide necks (by electric/acoustic guitars standards that is) - I’d say if the goal is to learn how to play classical guitar then a wider neck is probably the way, if it’s a case of starting to play guitar in general, chords etc on a classical guitar then a thinner neck might be helpful and should they move on up to an acoustic or electric instrument later it might feel a wee bit more familiar. Hope that makes sense?
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That's basically what I was after but yeah, still pricier than it makes sense to spend at the moment... Feels like a gap in the market somehow, either that or midi stuff is plain pricey to make!
@rodan It might be different now, but Stagg used to be a go-to brand for kids' first guitars and the like. Affordable and decent enough not to put anyone off the instrument. If they're already into it and you're after something a little better Yamaha should have a few choices in terms of price and (good) quality without being overpriced and I seem to remember Fender did one too. Anything more specifically classical guitar I wouldn't know. Also keep in mind I'm mostly basing it off what we used to sell/have in stock in the guitar shop I worked at one and off around 15 or so years ago, so might be a different landscape now!
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@mattioats @Dramatic_Hammer - thanks for the midi-related heads up, appreciated! Yeah sadly it doesn't look like cheap solutions do exist so might hold my horses for now. Definitely not a priority at the moment 👍
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The suplly @Pifko posted looks suspiciously similar to this bad boy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32700877525.html
There are also smaller 5-outputs ones like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000162125554.html
Mosky seems like a fairly new brand but seems to have a decent reputation at making cheap but accurate clones, but like Mooer did a few years back and many since - a couple of demos of their Klone have made me want to pull the trigger and invest all of £18 on one, compared to very expensive versions it definitely holds its own!
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I always do the pan + grill technique and I find hot but not scorching works well for me in the pan.
Still a must to have all the ingredients ready to go as you want to top it quite quickly, especially since I usually let the dough start the cook without any sauce for a little bit, which I feel helps with getting rid of moisture.
Had debated whether to make pizza tonight and tomorrow and now I feel like I have to. Will the hot weather make it possible for me to have a sourdough base ready for tonight? 🤔
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Bit of a weird one here - do super simple midi control footswitch without a huge "brain" of their own exist?
I have a Yamaha R100 reverb which is great in an 80s/90s dream pop kind of way with a Midi in for control, and would love to be able to have something very simple to just toggle the presets up/down but all I can find are all-controlling midi pedalboards?
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Your experience with the Pro 4 Endurance matches mine - thousands of kms over roads, shit roads, gravel and off road and only got punctures once they reached the end of their life, when I got about 3 punctures in a month which seemed wild by that point (but isn't actually crazy for many tires...!).
Can't say I remember how they 'felt' in term of give and comfort and I'm sure it'll be hard to better the Veloflex I have on now but will be ok to trade that off somewhat to forget about flats. Plus a little more rattling will at least mean I won't forever think I have a slow puncture as I do now 😂
Interesting to hear you were put off by the Powers, as I've been thinking about it, as well as the P Zero velo in 28mm (and tan) - sadly though both are unavailable anywhere so no chance of taking the plunge at the moment...
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I personally have no experience of manual machines, but happy to give another up vote for the Gaggia Classic - bought a second hand one which is many years old but in good nick. It is a great machine with a huge amount of spares/mods/repairs that can be bought and made to it, so it makes for a good long term investment. Crucially, it makes good coffee too 🙂
Is there any reason why you were looking at a dual footswitch? I'm assuming you would have needed just the one? If that's the case you totally could make one, literally a spdt (or dpdt if you want an LED) which opens or closes contact.
If it's a case of controlling the reverb on separate channel my guess would be you'd just need to wire it for use with a stereo jack. The two switches would then share one contact (let's say the sleeve) and then one channel would use the tip and the other the ring, again making or breaking the connection. Hope that makes sense?