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I hope is a suitable place to post this here.

After 3 month of researching the web and some encouragement from @Technics100 I can happily confirm that 650B x 47 tyres would fit a CDF 20(2016). I guess it will fit any CDf with "bottle neck" geometry as in the hand sketch bellow.

The clearance from the chainstay is around 2 mm on each side. See photos.

Pic 2

Sorry I am struggling to upload the photos and don't understand why. They are well below the required size.

About 2 weeks ago a contact pin of the B&M Luxos U snaped after close to 2 years from purchase. I was a bit un-pleased with this outcome, as thought that part should have been more resistant.(picture 1)

Searching the internet about this issue I barely found something on a Google group explaining that Luxos built is frail and that they are prone to this kind of failure. On the group someone offered to fix someone else’s problem but unfortunately pictures were not available.

On the same group I have discovered this guy https://somervillebikes.wordpress.com/ who introduced me to the 2mm banana plugs. I will give him credit for the work that I have done on my Luxos.

I believe this is going to be a tutorial – my first ever – for a potential fix for broken pins with B&M Luxos U. My suggestion is to solder 22AWG wires on the board and connect them with the feeding lead using 2mm banana plugs. I must mention I am not a soldering master or and electronics guru. It was actually my 2nd time in 3 years when I soldered something, but never to this extent(if can be called as such).

1. First I opened the Luxos with T10 star bit and checked if my idea is feasible. The pins were coming out through 4 slots that I thought I might have to drill them a bit to fit a wire.

2. Ordered the 22AWG wires and banana plugs. I have opted for multi-coloured to be easier to track the +/- for the IN and OUT. The 2mm banana plugs are very small and I think it makes a very stealthy connector for neat jobs on bike lighting with the advantage that any parts can be removed from the circuit very easily.

3. Checked if 22AWG wires fit through the pin slots. They do if they are slotted from the inside out. No drilling required.

4. Disconnected the cache battery and LED from the electrical board. Do this carefully! Is not difficult but it has to be done gently especially for the LED.

5. Inserted all 4 wires. I left them fairly long to be able to solder them to the board.(picture 3) On the inside I have slotted the wires through a rubber gasket that protected the pins from the elements(picture 2).

6. Snipped the pins a short as I could and soldered the wires to them.(picture 2). I made sure, prior to soldering that each wire goes to the required pin by comparing the IN/OUT and +/- markings on the outer body with the position of the board slotted in the correct position.

7. Pulled the wires all the way out with the rubber gasket flush on the inside of the light body and the board positioned to re-allow reassembly of the Luxos.

8. Reconnected the LED and cache battery and made sure the light is reassembled correctly(everything fits in its place). This bit can be a bit trickery, but with patience can be done. Practice a little with the positioning of the board and cache battery to make it easier at final assembly moment(picture 3).

9. Cut the wires at required length and solder the female banana plug as per Somervillebikes tutorial. Reinforced the connection with heat shrink and electrical tape. The electrical tape also helps in differentiating between IN/Out and +/-.(picture 4)

10. Soldered the male plugs to the feed wires. Again connections were reinforced with heat shrink and tape.(picture 5)

11. Things are working.

I hope this will be helpful for other people in my situation.

After this situation I believe I recommend when installing this light for the first time to use some pigtails adn minimise the risk of snapping the pins.

I'm using toplight for over an year now. Pleased with it. They seem to be bright and I know the light does get brighter when braking. Have no clue though, in real terms, how effective it is.

There was no option. It took me straight to delivery choice. Which were 2. RM(tracked 48) £3.60 and Click&Collect at £4.66 and after this printing label. I think it was my 2nd return in 9 years but do not remember anything like this. The other return a couple of years ago was due to my fault too, and a more expensive item, but no such thing to be forced to choose way to deliver.

I heard a few years back that they made a agreement with RM for deliveries and just wonder if it is part of agreement to have this kind of rip-off.

As for not geting there there is the proof of sending(I don't put stamps on whatever I send), so I think that should be sorted.

Might be good when reversing?!

Oh is not about that. I have no problem to pay for return especially if error is on my part too. But not 36% of the cost of it. The item can fit as a large letter the most. A 2nd class with signature would be around £1 and a little. Paying £3.60 is very far fetched for a small item and low value.

Oh is not about that. I have no problem to pay for return especially if my error is on my part too. But not 36% of the cost of it. The item can fit as a large letter the most. A 2nd class with signature would be around £1 and a little. Paying £3.60 is very far fetched for a small item and low value.

Thank you. I'll give it a try.

:)). What's the benefit of that?

Just found out that returning a £10 item, less than 50g, for the reson of not fitting costs £3.60 by the option forced on you by Ebay. I was a bit shocked. 36% of the costing price????

Payd £3 for postage. Seller was good. Customer gets punished!

Luckly contacted Ebay and was told that I can have that refunded after I sent item and provide proof of sending.

Quite a crap situation.

These bits of wording are quite British I would say. Difficult to be taken literally during unusual times.

The last suggestion I agree with it. The other side has the right to vent frustration, too.

I was refering to the customer lack of understanding when was clearly informed what to expect. If in this case can't understand, given the current environment, could rightly tell him to f.. off. In a diplomatic manner, of course.

Damn, what a beauty!

Neat looking.

Does anyone know a 4 core cable not thicker than 5mm suitabe for bike use?

I use a Velogical dynamo which is at the back and curently, to keep everything neat, I use an USB cable to conect dynamo-front light-rear light. Looking for something even neater as I don't quite like the twisted/squashed look of the current cable.

@Chak

If head-badge is the manufacturer logo and is somehow mis-aligned I guess it would be a far fetched expectation to have it perfect as it would depend on the manufacturer and less to the bike shop. But I would argue a refusal or replacement, as for me difference is in details.

If head-badge is a reference to the situation experienced by me with the extra details given in reply to jackbepablo I would say my point is valid.

There is no point in picking on the odd customer that expects everything perfect. Looking at Evans's reviews for me some question marks should be raised. Probably they wanted more they could handle and got out of control?

I find edscoble aproach very good. You give yourself some leverage time. This way customer know what to expect. If you manage to sort it earlier that is great. Customer would be very happy.

I don't consider a valid explanation busy times and low fees a reason to decrease quality of a service. I don't even think that any of us, when it comes to accepting a service, would expect a lower quality just because of those 2 reasons. Not to include here quality of materials used.

I just dealt today with to local shops. Asked what I need it from them. One told me that the waiting time is 4 weeks. Told him that I will look a round to see what is the local situation and I will return if I get similar answers. We parted very politely with the shop understanding the situation.

2nd shop told me that about a week will be the waiting time, but for my kind of request there is a chance to be happening in a few days. I told him I am happy with 1 week time, if its earlier would be great.

My point is that the person in charge of a shop is the one that knows the situation best. He knows very well what is going on around the industy(this applies for any business). If you gave a customer a time window and you fail to fulfill it and ,even worse, you ignore the customer's plea for information than the problem is with the business/shop. If you corectly inform the customer, even with the risk of him not being pleased, there is no way so many will leave negative reviews.

@coventry_eagle

'Yeah, when I said no rush, I meant this evening'

ha ha ha, so funny. I guess this is the other extreme, from the customer side.

@jackbepablo I don't know how was that possible. When I noticed the best scenario that I thought of was that of poor assembly. Situation that I could not accepted. I politely asked to be fixed only to be met with some crapy excuses and had to insist a lot to be remedied.

@B0N0R It is a posibility and at this time it is very understandable for me. Missing a day, or 2, or 3 I guess is acceptable, but somebody(manager, owner, mechanic, whatever) should make the time to adress it for the solely reason it is the right thing to do otherwise you get in a situation experienced by Evans.

To bring more justification into it I see it this way. You as a mechanic/shop have a better insight of both worlds. In both professional and non-professional life you are a customer. I could say that you are more often a customer than is you client a mechanic. And if you understand the customer situation it should be quite easy to approach it. Being pro-active/active and even re-active of its fair expectations is the right approach.

@jackbepablo

If I had someone moaning about a logo on a headset spacer not being lined up, I'm not sure how well I'd react.

It was not the case. The missaligment was physical, meaning some were to the left others on the opposite side creating lips if that makes sense.

They wrapped them around the spokes too.
When the lady tried to move the bike she could not do it. The mechanic spent some good time to figure out what's going on. So much that the customer start smiling about the stupidity of the situaton.

It wasnt at Evans Cycle.

By curiosity went a bit through the reviews. A lot of them are quite fair. Worked in retail for some good years in the past and I have noticed in the past decade that a lot a companies preffer to adopt the ostrich position and dig their head in the sand.

Comunication is key. From my experience, clients are very understandable with difficult situations and they would accept delays providing that they are comunicated in time, and especially when people inquire about them. There is no point in bullshiting them. Telling them that supplier X has some delay and we expect to happen at this date+/- a few days is a valid and fair explanation and the majority of the people are very understanable.

I went through a good deal of the reviews and the pedal reference is marginal.

I think companies should accept if something is above their posibilities at a certain point and inform about them. Is pointless to promise something and fail without informing the paying customer. If any of us would be in that position we would feel the same.

After my last experience with a bike shops I decided to do everything by myself except building and truing wheels.
Don't want to offend but I have experienced this:
*bought new bike which came with the headtube spacer un-aligned and scratched. When inquired about them I was made to feel the crazy one. The buying came with a lifetime free check-up. I only used it once in 6 years because that first impression made me have serious doubts about their professionalism.
*seen a lady asking to have some strap mudguards fitted only to have them straped around the spokes;

• on my last full service a year and a half ago I replaced BB among other things only to recently find that the threads were bone dry, no trace of grease.
  
  

Not sure how all of you are, but I expect to have a proper service and dont want to feel that I need to check everything. I feel some how that a lot of businesses are failing at things and have the impressions that they are entitled of money with-out making a proper effort. This applies unfortunately for big or small ones.

I enjoy the looks of it.

Well done for the craftmanship!

Here another one. This one moves from 10 spd 11-28 to 11-42. Seems to be closer to your wish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvDvZViRFN8

A correction. D-link is actually RoadLink.

Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpdLrlN4HI

I did it a year and a half ago with Tiagra 4700. Went from 11-34 to 11-40(Sunrace) using the D-link. I fully used a 116 links kmc chain.

I think D link is a good option. One thing, Tiagra derailleur seems rather long(at least on my Genesis) but as I much as I figure it out I could have done the change with-out Dlink providing that I would stay away from the largest 4 cogs in combination with the 50T chainring.

I guess if your derrailler is a short one you would still be able to do it avoiding large-large combinations. However the 42T might be too large.

With D-link in the 50 to 40 combination the derailleur was quite streched and I stayed away from it, as under load I suspected that the chance of snaping would be very high.

Recently I change the chairing from 50/34 to 40/24, as I am really poor with hills and to my shame I am not that old.

A quick search on youtube will give you quite a lot of videos about this. If I remember right, at the time whent I did it, there was one with 105.