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Genesis seat post Φ27.2 mm, 345 mm - £7 £5
Tiagra 4700 50/34 crank-set, 175 mm - with scuffing and marks from use but still has life left in it, is missing the plastic seal where the arm is tightened - £ 40 £ 35
Bontrager Montrose 148 saddle 2016 – has a damage on the underside of the nose(see below picture). Since 2019 it was unused due to replacement with Brooks. - £ 15 £ 12
Parktool chain cleaning tool – in good order to be used - £10 £8
Shimano CS-HG500 sprocket 10 speed 11-34 – was replaced from Genesis Croix de Fer with larger sprocket. Still has life in it. Has some rust marks on the back(see photos below) - £20 £15
Genesis stem 110mm, 7° - as new - £5
Genesis handlebar 440 mm, Φ31.8mm – scuffs from use - £15 £12
Pair of WTB Venture 47 tyres, 650 B, 47 mm – used, still plenty of life in them. On has more wear(back tyre), the front one is almost like new. - £35 £30
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I would prefer collection from Bristol. Cash would be best, but I don't mind bank tansfer when coming and collecting if is easier. -
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@yoshy I believe the sound indicates perfect connectionwhich is a good thing. Lack of sound is the opposite.
@crossedthread no hard feeling:). Is your experience. However I am contemplating with a battery option to feed my existing set-up hor thos hard hills. Research in progress.
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No signs of anything broken with the rear. My Luxos U start flickering when it's wet and wonder if it would have anything to do with that.
I need to find a way to test the rear light with power with things I have around the house.
Tried with a multimeter for circuit continuity and I do not get a sound/0 on it. The same applies when I test the Luxos U output. Not sure is it means anything as the green light turns on.
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An update at this post https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15376626/ .
There is a rub with with WTB Venture 27.5x47. I believe that mostly comes from the mud and likely because I used fenders. It did not allow mud to clear before reaching the narrowes part of the chain stays.
My eyes are set on CDF 2021 frame.
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My B&M View Brake Plus is not turning on anymore. It is connected to a Luxos U and the green led to show complete circuit is on. I have checked cables, polarity, etc.
In the past 2 years this problem occured 5 times with no apparent reason but came back after a day or two. This time how ever is over one week with no success to find the cause of the issue,
I have checked the output for the Luxos and maximum was 5.6V which is below the 6V required for the rear light.
Did anyone else encountered this issue? Any solution for it?
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I need an advice to replace the front door, please.
I would like to do that my-self. Never done it before and I have this situation. The new wooden door is about 40mm wider that the old one and not sure what is the best course of action for DIY.
Does it sound feasable to take the door and have it trimmed to the required width?
I am asking that as checking the existing door frame I would imagine all its parts are made from 3 individual "blocks" of wood(appologies as I am not familiar with the technical terms for them). I am refering to the 2 vertical sides and the top horizontal ones. As such I consider that trimming one or both of the vertical parts to acommodate the 40mm wider door is a harder task with a very good chance for me to make it unusable.
Any inputs for a DIY solution are very welcome. Thanks!
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Never tried the tube way. Made my 1st tubeless setup about 2 weeks ago. I use a booster made of 2l Pet bottle after unsuccesful tried just with floor pump.
I was expecting a stronger popping sound but it was quite faint. For safety I have inflated the tire after the initial setup a a larger presure just to make sure everything is in place.
2 weeks later everything holds in place. Usually I have my tires at 40PS but in general I find them after a few days at 30. Not sure if that is unusual but the same was with the tube set-ups.
Tire was a Venture 47. Hope it helps.
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I'm using the USB charge of B&M Luxos U with a Velogical dynamo. In general it charges my phone from 16km/hour. Pretty pleased and using the phone in airplane mode and GPS it can keep it at constant level, but depends a lot on the profile of the ride. If the phone is fully operational but without GPS active it is doing better. GPS, wi-fi and searching for signal masts are a major sourse of battery consumption.
This might be helpful https://www.cyclingabout.com/list-of-hub-dynamo-power-supplies-for-usb-devices/. The cycle2charge option seems interesting at a decent price. -
Sendero are the knobblier ones, right? I looked at those, too. For 2 reasons I disregard them:
My rides are mixed and prefer a bit of smothness for the tarmac part. With Senderos I was a bit concerned about the extra drag as I am not a strong pedaler and any drag on flat roads kind of annoys me.
Read a review about its real size and was saying that while in general is around 47 at the side knobbs are going somewhere between 48-49mm. And if you chainstay spacinf is similar to my sketch than the risk of rubb, I imagine, is semnificative.
When I chose the Venture I considered that would give a good balance for my need. Already discovered compared to 700cx35 on some areas, on climbing rocky places, it behaves way better. I have to test it against some rougher wet downhills where I had to get off the bike with the 700c. The downhills are nothing spectacular, just larger looser rocks kind of the size of a fist.
I am still at the beginning with the offroad things and on youtube seen some guys doing some pretty intense things with the gravel bike on MTB trails. I know so far that I still have to accustome my self with going downhill on the hoods. I feel a lot of pressure on my palms. Have inline breaks, but for heavier stuff the decrease in levearage length makes it impractical to control the bike. Must look at one point for some 50+ drops(if they exist) and decrease the stem length.
As for you trying the Sendero you can do what I did. :)). I took a plundge after 3 month of research and going back and forth about the 650bx47 wheels.
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A good option for a boost charger. Has the advantage of having the quick realease lever.
Seen it here recently.
I believe it should be done with a car extinguisher too.
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Can you show me a picture/video with the rubber torus, please?
My aim was the same, to avoid any bubbles from begining. But, as the tape sits, even with the tumb pressure[not sure if mine is a cobbler's:))] it only properly sticks bubble free on the rim for a width of 6-8mm. Than my tumb cannot properly press agains the joint between the middle channel and its walls so about 2mm are left "loose" untill something smaller is used to fit those areas and push the air out.
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Taken it to a 10 mile ride, mixed surface. No rub. While riding looked down on the clearence. It stays the same. The wheels are new but according to Techinics100 he did not experienced any on the 2014 model with the same level of clearance and a long time user.
I will have an update as a long time use to see how it behaves.
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Ty for the video. Previosly it was done in Malaysia(War on Plastic show) now it moved to Turkey!
I feel so much frustration when I need to buy vegetables/produce and a lot of them are wrapped in plastic. I try to stay out of it as much as I can, but still feel I don't do enough. I do not understand why for example cereales/rice/grains are bagged in plastic bags!
Potatoes, as an example, have no issue in being kept as they are, especially if they have some dirt on them.
On the other hand the fill yourself stores I found them a bit too expensive.
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Wonder when every one says make sure no bubbles under the tape how far do you take it?
Spent yesterday around 2-3 hours to do, for the first time, a tubeless setup. Damn is a work for the patiencent ones. I was really wondering if is such a good thing and if this setup is such a fesable thing. Time will tell!
So, my experience.
Tesa tape, not very strechy. Had to put quite some tension to keep it flat with the rim. Then, when you go with your fingers over it only a small portion properly sticks to the rim imediatly.After each streched section and finger pressing, done this with the blunt end of a skewer:
- lateral movement, perpendicular to the middle channel walls to sit the tape;
- pressing along the middle channel to sit the tape closer to the wall edge and on the wall.
The overlaping part of the tape is trickier as bubbles don't have where to escape compared with the 1st layer which can go into the spoke holes.
After I have done the middle channel poceeded to firmly stick the tape on each side of middle channel up to the rim wall.
I might have take it to another level and must discover an easier way. The good thing of it, I guess, is that the setup worked from the first go and have not experienced any leakage once the tyre was beded with the help of the 2L coke bottle.
Eager to see how this set up will behave over time.
- lateral movement, perpendicular to the middle channel walls to sit the tape;
Price drop.