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Cane Creek Standard: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/headsets/hope-07-upper-taper-ring-silver-hs124s/
36x45

What about one big plate/piece of tube that the two top tubes and the seatstay wishbone connect to?

What other cheap track frames that can take bigger tires are there? The pomp is currently not for sale...

Are they really? It's all the same kind of 4130 steel isn't it?

Anyone seen the new for 2019 Allday frameset? Opinions?
It's got canti bosses like the Pompino/Mash Steel now...

I have a 46T one in 3/32".
New.

+1

Thanks for the suggestions. Have read that people have mixed opinions on the Paselas.
How do they compare to the Ribmo? They seem to be decent as well...

Just a quick question regarding tire choice:
I'm thinking about buying a steamroller und planning to use 35c tires.
Over in the tire thread the recommendation seems to be Voyager Hyper, Marathon Supreme, etc.
How do these tires hold up to a little bit of skidding? Surely someone on here will have some experience?! :-)
What is your go-to wide-ish tire suitable for street riding including skidding?

Because of the cranks or the chainring?

+1
Maybe get the fork painted the same color?

What about compared to DT rims? Would sandblast or matte be a better fit?
Thinking of building a wheelset with XR31T for the front and DT RR521DB for the rear.

What about a matte XR31T? What's the difference between matte and sandblast?

If you're not too worried about the weight of the rims, take a look at cnc-bike.de.
They have a lot of cheap rims, like the Ryde X-Pace. It is 8 Euros and weighs 568g on my scale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zklPh1hEPP8

@xDOMx I hope you are ok with me posting the video?

I just saw your new build on YouTube. Looks really good! Is there going to be a thread about it on here?

You should be able to remove the graphics on the seatpost, stem, handlebars, etc. with acetone.
Or do you want to paint it because of the scratches?

It was about a full turn and a half between the tight and the loose ones. I just brought the loose ones up to tension and went on from there. Let's just hope it turns out ok. :-)

I thought it doesn't really matter where the trailing and leading spokes go...
The wheel is also not going to be flipped because it's only going to be used for singlespeed.
I don't think re-lacing one side would fix my problem.
I've edited the photo to show the tight and loose spokes.
Red ones are tight, the rest is loose.
It's always the inner ones of the groups of four.

I've checked the lacing and it is correct. I'm using a R460 rim from DT Swiss, so no offset there.

The trailing spokes are heads out on both sides. If you flip the wheel, the trailing spokes on both sides are heads in.

I'm building a 24h 2x rear wheel for a fixed gear at the moment. I've run into an issue:
Although I'm using the same length spokes left and right, the spokes are not even in tension after lacing the wheel and putting some tension in by bringing them to the same thread engagement.
Strangely it's the DS (free) leading and NDS (fixed) trailing spokes that are really tight compared to the rest.
I've searched the web and couldn't really come up with an explanation.
I'm using a generic Bitex hub. I tried to look for an uneven offset of spoke hole drillings, but can't really measure it properly.
Is there any other explanation for my problem? I'm pretty sure the lacing is correct.

thanks.

Any link for more information about the frame? Could't find anything doing a quick google search...

DT R470db: spec-wise like the Hydras, but with removable decals and cheaper.