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I liked the balls of this one which was in the Guardian couple weeks back.
Matchbox house by Archmongers is a playful and functional rear outrigger.
Dormers are dormers tho really - people with money + design aspiration use zinc and glass. I'd be wary to use timber cladding up high.

It's definitely a thing right now - minimalist / graphic take on the aesthetic of a traditional dado rail. I wish i'd done in an eggshell as our stair has a greasy brown smudge up it where the kids have used the wall rather than the bannister on the other side. If you do it use good masking tape (frog tape) and peel off before dry to get a good edge.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABD-King-Pin-Kingpin-BMX-Bike-Ruby-Red-20-Inch-Vintage-bicycle-/224219148242?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Imma thinking about offering on this to fulfil my pump track / skate park needs - First bmx since a redline 440 back in the 90s. anyone know if this is a good shout or not ? ABD seem to be an Aussie brand from a few yrs back - it’s 20.85 - I’m 5.11 .

Yeah its in Kenton Rec - bakerloo line tube closest - or Harrow and wealdstone mainline.

That's the pump track directory. We have a new one in Kenton Rec by clark and kent. The MTB jump bike dudes reckon its a bit tame (not on a hill). The BMX dudes say it's not as good as a proper race track. It's pretty epic for confident kids tho and suits a mix of bikes. Really whippy and tight in the inner loops - bit more sedate on the outside "advanced loop". I'm fighting the urge to buy or build something to ride it. I fancy a 24" wheel bmx probably for cost to fun ratio - I like the look of a Sunday Model C - or maybe go the other way with a £99 on-one jack flash 26er frame built up SS with old mtb bits.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?fbclid=IwAR08J85I7vdCy9zhdX8ySl_EbYigPmUj_iXQpCCLiu2WLvl1xyN2xLpvGFQ&mid=1tL1ELdCXemdd-iLAwZoULIJaqW0&ll=52.48464719080562%2C-1.220570965009311&z=8

Thanks mate - makes sense will do. Fun times - at least I’m not doing it off a ladder ! Any recommendations for sealant round the windows I have some silversil stuff but was thinking ct 1 - seems to be lots of branded ‘frame sealant around too. This is to fill the 2-6mm Gap around the face fix flange of the window frames ...

So 1960s crosswall house has developed a couple of leaks front and back - I posted a while back about the window sill and @Airhead helped me out recommending Zinser All coat - it was hot and sunny and I did fuck all about it. Now its winter and the big rain a few weeks ago really started pissing in at the ground floor ceiling to wall joint, which is actually a giant floor to ceiling window frame.

I have just this morning bitten the bullet for scaffold. And glad I did. At the first floor there are vertical hardwood timber mullions dividing the windows. I started poking around to discover one (in our bedroom) is mush all the way through - so now theres a proper hole in the ship. My diagnosis is that the window frames (face fixed) have, over the years, come away enough to let water collect and dribble around them and into the timber. The house was partially over clad in uPVC at some point but they neglected to do the top section over the first floor windows - so there's no drip either.

I've got more horrible upvc cladding to overclad this top section and can mastic seal around the windows, but these mullions are a fucker - wet rot i'm assuming . Anyone got any thoughts ?

Im thinking to dig out and seal off the base of this mushy hole some-how - over clad the mullion externally with some nice timber (cedar) and the seal the windows up to this, then come at it from inside next summer with expanding foam and filler. I guess the alternative is to cut all or part of the mullion out and replace completely.

Cheers mate - invaluable intel

#topcontent - loving this detail - nice one

So mine are old metal frames - no idea how old, house is 1960 - about 35mm overall so i think the glass will be either 18 or 20mm . I've pulled out some wedge gasket. Can't measure exactly but analog callipers give me as below - any advice on where to find replacements if I do try and DIY these ?

Prolly good science to it but kinda satisfyingly intuitive I think. Has become trendy AF but I’ve heard a lot of YouTube copycats are not doing it correctly. I guess to be long lasting it goes beyond just hitting a bit of wood with a flame for a bit . Assume this guy is legit tho.

I need to do this too - you can get glass measuring callipers for thickness if that’s what you mean. Overall glass size - not sure - I guess you can remove one trim - Measure the differential and then calculate overall size ?

How do you re-finish that without losing all the jaunty colour marking ?

Dibs chains please.

I'm trying to keep it Shimano really - thanks tho ;-)

Sounds good - should have said - will need posted unless you happen to be nearish. Feel free to PM with price / deets.
Cheers.

Parts needed for my Nigel Dean retro+modern road bike build.

Decent modern(ish) silver road callipers - 105 / ultegra -recessed nut
26mm clamp 1" quill stem - 90-100mm

Ta

.

Briars gardening clogs do this for me - do covet the leather version from Birkenstock

I found Nitto x Fairweather Mod 174 compact 25.4 bars on the Tokyobike website - 60 squid tho

I've got one with a knackered dicta 18T freewheel on it - ill did it out, pretty sure its functional tho £10 from HA7 ?

Excuse the shit pic - I've two 'vintage' plan chests - I need to get rid of them. These are 60's-80's from an Architect's office but good for anyone needing A1 paper storage - artists / printmakers etc.

Top one is 690w x 860d x 670 h
Bottom one is 745w x 965d x 675h

Both scruffy but could be cleaned up / re-finished.

£120 each

This is a zip van / big car situation for collection (HA6) i'll help load up obvs.

£280

Cheers dude