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Bought this pair of jeans a year ago:
https://www.heddels.com/2017/02/naked-famous-red-white-blue-twisted-weft-selvedge-jeans/Worn only a couple of times, not the right size. They are size 31 - fit guide available on Naked & Famous website.
They have a twisted weft which does provide a nice look, and they have really cool details with 3-color (red/white/blue) stripes on the inside of the legs lapel and on the coin pocket.
Can provide pictures of course if wanted.
Bought them for 185€ but would like to have them gone for 100€/85£
Send me a pm if interested!
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Yes indeed you are quite right miscalculation from my side! if only 9mm difference, with change of crank arms pedal axis will only lower for about 4mm which does seem acceptable but I reckon if it fits 38 would be better anyway!
@Lolo more or less old 700C bike with not much clearance currently fixed that I would to re-convert to gears with 650B tires to have a more relaxed ride
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Thanks @mdcc_tester, that does result in 18mm drop
700x25 <=> 622+2*25=672mm
650Bx35 <=> 584+35*2=654mm
Considering that I currently run 170mm crank arms and I never had any pedal strike (currently running fixed), switching to 650B and 165mm crank arms woud result in 13mm pedal axis drop which does appear to be quite a bit even if it wouldn't be fixed anymore but with gears, would it be a problem? I assume that this discussion would be much easier with the BB heigh measurement but I do not have it yet. I reckon it would be quite better to run 38mm wide tire to reduce the drop -
I have found on the internet (Sheldon website) that
"a 19-622 (700 x 19C) tire would theoretically have exactly the same outside diameter as a 38-584 (650 x 38B)"
Is there anyone that have a more or less precise equivalence table between 650B and 700 wheels diameters depending on the tire chosen? I am considering switching from 700x25 to 650Bx35 and would know approximately by how much the bottom bracket would be lowered.Thanks in advance
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Can someone confirm if using different chainring/cog combinations with the same total tooth count will not change anything regarding chain length? I think I have read something o n Sheldon's website but I can not get to find it again.
In a scatterbrained (maybe stupid?) idea of building a bike with a two drivetrain system (flip flop hub with fixed free + double crankset) in order to have one speed for general use and one speed for very hard climbs, say 41/15 and 34/22 (56 tooth count in total - gear ratios of 2.73 and 1.55), would it be achievable with the same chain length?
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Thanks @Rhodrich but I think it might not suit as they probably be too wide and I am not sure I want to carry a disk if I use rim brake (is it common to have wheels with both disc and rim brake surface?)
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Sorry for the spam (posted in any question answered thread) but I reckon it is also a relevant thread to ask
Does a wheelset with the following conditions exists off the shelf somewhere on the internet:
- 32 or 36 spokes
- 650B rims
- for tires up to 38mm wide (not looking for ultra wide tires)
- for rim bakes
- if possible not $$$$$$
EDIT: forgot to mention for 10sp shimano transmission
- 32 or 36 spokes
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Following a question on 650B rim brake rim a few pages ago, price estimation start to make me reconsider the search for an off the shelf wheelset.
Does a wheelset with the following conditions exists off the shelf somewhere on the internet:
- 32 or 36 spokes
- 650B rims
- for tires up to 38mm wide (not looking for ultra wide tires)
- for rim bakes
- if possible not $$$$$$
Thanks in advance!
- 32 or 36 spokes
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If I am not mistaken, King cage is proposing solutions for frames without bottle cage mounts which is similar band-ons so they might be more sturdy?
http://www.bikepacking.com/gear/accessories/king-cage-manything-cage/
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Looking for a rim with following requirements:
- 650B diameter
- not too wide (for tires up to 38C maybe)
- 32h
- rim brake
Any forum recommended options out there?
EDIT: I came across velo orange diagonale that seems to be matching, but did not found any other options (or did not search correctly so looking for options)
- 650B diameter
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Yes indeed you're right ; I would describe it as more of a bothering sensation rather than a sharp pain. It is mainly located at the front of the knee below the knee cap an towards the exterior of the knee a little bit. Your link is quite interesting, might correspond to the anterior knee pain described, and could be due to tight quads (this quad is a little weaker than the other so it might be this bad balance that is making it tight) and I could try a little more setback on my saddle as I think I might not be placed correctly. Thanks for the help
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What could cause (I guess there are many variables) a small pain in the left knee? I does feel it a bit on the bike, and off the bike however when running it does not appear to be bothering me at all.
I am biking on a fixed gear but with a front brake so no skids at all (just slowing down with the legs complemented by the front brake) so I thought torque would be acceptable for the knees and joints
Could it be caused by bad saddle setback (but wouldn't it affect both knees?)? Could it be caused by a misalignment or bad symmetry of one component (saddle, stem, bars, etc.) even if I tried to check alignment before? Could it be caused by my saddle (not properly seated or slipping, it is a leather brooks saddle)? or maybe it is due to my pedaling technique (not pedaling straight with one leg)?
Understand it is difficult to ask it through the forum but it was just to have ideas to fuel my personal reflection -
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My frame does not have any eyelets, and in a more or less (maybe more more than less) close future, if I would be inclined to have eyelets added by a framebuilder, my fork is still quite narrow.
I was wondering: is it a completely dumb idea to file the sides of full metal mudguards such as Berthoud or Velo Orange just to fit a narrow fork? (I guess it is but since I have seen quite some hacks/bodges on here I reckoned it could be worth asking) -
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When I posted the question the website where I usually purchase parts I did not see them but just a few hours/a day after they had in stock the new Veloflex Masters in 28C.
I tried a continental tire in 28C before but it didn't fit my fork but the masters that I had in 25C seemed quite narrow (not measured though) so I stuck with the masters BUT I tried my luck purchasing a pair of Masters in 28C... and they fit the fork!!! (tight clearance - but clearance still!) Really stocked about that ; I mounted them tonight and will give it a try for my commute tomorrow morning -



use a zip tie? if tightened correctly the conical shape of the fork should prevent the mudguard to slip downwards?
EDIT: a zip tie that does go aroung the fork and through the hole, the top of the bracket hole will be supported by the zip tie, and the zip tie if tightened might not slip downwards on the fork which should hold the mudguard?