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I currently have a set of veloflex master in 25C mounted on thebike I use the most.
I had zero puncture atm and love the way they feel ; they are quite confortable and I can't fit more than 25 on my fork (tried 28C and does not fit - too bad!). They are starting to be worn so I am looking for other options.

What would be your recommendations for a new set of tires:

• dimensions 700x25C
  
• confortable/rolling feel similar to the veloflex master (if possible)
  
• more resistant than them
  
• tan wall (optional)
  
  

I have seen the continental grand prix classic, or the continental 4 seasons (which is more expensive), the marathons (but I think they roll less and harder to fit), but don't have good knowledge of tire options.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the reply. Interesting as everybody recommends tires as big as possible for touring these days :) congratulations on the achievement btw

Might have been adressed but out of curiosity, which tires did you use (and more particularly width: 25C? 28C? 32C?)

@DragunovCZ1 shloud definitely be mentioned here. Great seller ; quick to respond, and tremendously efficient.
Contacted in the morning, parts posted during lunchtime and very well packaged/protected.

pm

If I remember correctly I have seen on this forum a solution to route two brake levers on one single brake caliper (something that mounts on the cable just before the front brake caliper cable entry).

Does anyone recall what I am describing and could give a link to it (and potentially a feedback)?

EDIT: I found it here https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/jtek-doublecontrol-s/ have anyone ever used this and could give a feedback?

What would be the most stressed/under constrain parts of a threaded fork? My guess would be at the junction of the fork blades and the steerer tube, but just wanted different opinions.

Damaged the top of my fork by dropping it on the floor: the flat part (where the little cylindrical washer of a threaded headset with a flat part on the inner diameter sits) was a little ripped (around 4mm maybe) but the threads were fine; managed to put a quill stem inside the steerer to straighten up the torned part, re-assembled the threaded headset and re-fitted the quill stem.

I reckon it could be fine as the torned part of the steerer is gripped between the headset on the outside and the quill stem on the inside, and I see it as a "low-stress" area, but I guess I could be wrong and wanted different opinions on that.

thanks!

Certainly a stupid question but can tubeless tires (like WTB horizon for exampl) be used as "classic" tires with tubes?

What is the value of the chainline that Velobase uses as reference to recommend the BB length? 43.5 mm?

Basically I know my rear chainline, I have a crankset, and I want to find the correct BB length t that would allow to match the rear chainline so the idea was to see what length Velobase reccomends for their reference chainline and adjust the length to match the value of my rear chainline

Maybe Spurcycle bell

You have other solutions to run ss/fixed without any chain tensioner with vertical dropout frams which are eccentric bottom bracket and excentric hub. I have the latter from White Industries (called ENO) which is also flip flop, works very well and is really really easy to set up to have a chain well tensioned. It is a bit costly but there is currently one for sale on here for a much more reasonable price by @Fabs if you want

Not sure I have understood the first bit of your message... sorry!

Regarding the fit, it is the "Weird Guy" series from Naked & Famous (see https://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/fit-guide) which is described as a standard tapered fit (mostly regular from waist to knee and then tapered I guess)

Edit: said "I guess" as I am not fully convinced by all the brands descriptions of the cuts/fits in general

Not sure if it is the right place but not completely convinced it needs a classified advert, would anyone be interested in a Naked & Famous "Red, White, & Blue Selvedge Jeans" as in the following link:https://www.heddels.com/2017/02/naked-famous-red-white-blue-twisted-weft-selvedge-jeans/

They are really cool but unfortunately a bit too small for me (bougtht a size smaller than another one from them but only worn a couple of times - not convinced that it will stretch enough). It is a shame as it has really cool details with tricolor sewings as in the pictures of the link.

I have them in size 31, paid 160£ for it in december 2017, only worn a couple of times.
Asking for 100£, PM if interested.

If it needs a separate classified advert, please let me know and I will create it

thanks for the reply!

Hello @Hulsroy, may I ask how you did the polishing? I had the idea to do the same to a Deda Piega but wasn't sure on how to do it and if it risky for the integrity of the handlebar.

if I was to do it by hand with no particular tool but sandpaper, would it be okay or a complete pain in the arse? and what grain would you recomend?

@Gaston is the rear brake directly integrated to the frame below the chainstays? And I don't understand how can the front brake can be set that way regarding turns etc., does the cable run inside the frame or outside but on the non drive side?

@Ruimteaapje2.0 may I ask what are the bar tape end plugs (not sure what they are called)?

Quick questions here that some of you might hopefully be able to answer to. Recently changed BB (due to damaged thread on the frame BB shell) and crankset and having different issues.

1) switched to threadless bottom bracket like this one because of damaged threads as explained. However, the BB has been becoming loose during rides 2 or 3 times ; when re-tightening it, I come to the point that the opposite side of the BB of which I am tightening is turning on itself (no more tightening, as not enough pressure on frame to hold it in position if it makes sens), does someone has a solution for that? Do I need to buy a second BB tool to hold the opposite side while tightening? Is anyone using this kind of BB and running fixed (and facing the same kind of problem)?

3) changed crankset for Shimano 105 Golden arrow FC-S125, but I have a significant difference between crank arms and chainstays distance: the nds crank arm is very close to the chainstay, while the ds crank arm is much more far from the chainstay (very noticeable when looking). Is it normal as this crankset was supposedly design for asymmetrical BB if such thing existed, is the frame maybe bent (and how to check it), etc. Does someone has already faced this issue? Should I try to find a recent crankset and try it on just to compare with crank arms distances with chainstays? What could be the consequences of such an asymmetry? Could this be linked to problem 1) and cause the BB loosening?

Thanks for the potential help

Hey @Fabs, would you be inclined to post (I'm in France)?

If it is the case, I might be interested but will only be able to confirm/infirm at the end of next week if it is okay for you

Sorry for my question then, good luck with sale with this really cool frame :)!

Aren't the two measures switched one with another (51cm for the seat tube and 53cm for the top tube) or is it a really compact frame?

Anyone would know the RAL code (or something similar) for the color of the green c-tracks? Kind of british racing green

Will certainly appear as a highly stupid question but let's say if the bike that fits you (talking about a classic horizontal tube, not slopping nor lo pro bike) is for example 54x56, with a 100mm stem ; what would prevent one to use a 55x57 (or 56x57 or 57x57) with a 90mm stem or a 53x55 (or a 54x55 or a 55x55) with a 110mm stem?
Does the bike overall geometry change with top tube/seat tube size (in terms of angles, etc.)?
I guess it is a stupid question since when you compare two different frames they might have different tube angles etc but I guess there are some standards in terms of bike geometries maybe

@Breso may I ask what is the groupset on this one?