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What do you think about Trek 920 as do-it-all bike for road/gravel riding, bikepacking/touring, ultra racing and towing a kid trailer?
I currently have Equilibrium 931, like it but I am limited to mostly road riding and road hearing is limiting for any kind of touring (I imagine it will be even worse when my child grows up to the trailer and I tow extra 30 kg in the back), while SRAM 2x10 with 42/28 crankset seems a perfect for both on and off road in my opinion. I thought first about adding a proper rigid MTB to Genesis, but everything is so scarce these days and I could probably swap Equilibrium for Trek with hardly any extra expenses. Plus I heard it can even clear 27.5x2.8 with fenders for some plus cushness.

They have thicker and stiffer sidewalls which make no point when running tubed, non-TL tyre will be lighter and more supple because of that.

I have a problem with front rotor rub in the front. While riding in the Alps recently, I have noticed that on the descents front rotor starts rubbing, when riding flat or uphill rubbing disappears until another descent when it happens again. Bike is Genesis Equilibrium Disc 931 with QR, but I have 9 mm DT RWS thrubolt. Brake is R785 with finned metallic pad and rotor is RT70. Is the fork too flexy or rotor gets out of straight when it heats up?

What is the BB width and/or Q-Factor on this bike?

Yes, exactly these. First was going to buy SKS too, as in Poland they are the only good guards brand available, but found it at Merlin and got interested, as I currently run 28 mm but would like to try 30 or 32 mm one day, with guards too.
On topic of frame look, I also definitely prefer the current bare look with those minimalist decals to the original half-black painted one.

My Equilibrium 931 Disc. Found it last year on Pinkbike for 1k and brought to Poland. Previous owner stripped the paint from the frame (only model decals etc left), so wonderful and classy look. Just switched the wheels to my own that I previously had on Pickenflick. This spring is unusually cold and rainy so still in the bad weather mode, soon going to take the mudguards off and mount the gumwall Veloflexes I found cheap at Merlin when buying it.
All in all, this is going to be my bike for a lifetime, with RWS thrubolt skewers I don't miss lack of TA and the only upgrade I plan at some point is a Di2 groupset (frame is fully compatible for internal Di2 routing).

My Equilibrium 931 Disc. Found it last year on Pinkbike for 1k and brought to Poland. Previous owner stripped the paint from the frame (only model decals etc left), so wonderful and classy look. Just switched the wheels to my own that I previously had on Pickenflick. This spring is unusually cold and rainy so still in the bad weather mode, soon going to take the mudguards off and mount the gumwall Veloflexes I found cheap at Merlin when buying it.
All in all, this is going to be my bike for a lifetime, with RWS thrubolt skewers I don't miss lack of TA and the only upgrade I plan at some point is a Di2 groupset (frame is fully compatible for internal Di2 routing).

Exactly, a year ago Polish TV interviewed Kwiatkowski who told that using hand sanitizer gel is a normal everyday activity for him and described how Sky/Ineos trained riders to pay attention to that. The interview in Polish is available here but with Google Translate you can get an idea what is he talking: https://sport.tvp.pl/47190797/michal-kwiatkowski-panika-jest-najgorsza-wywiad

You can get Schwalbe Marathon in 20x1.75, Big Apple or Big Ben in 20x2.0 and 20x2.15 or Super Moto-X in 20x2.4.

Which model is it? I might be interested.

I am planning to replace the OG Sugino crankset of my Singlecross (that I have constant problems with chain tension varying when rotating the cranks) with something modern with external BB cups. Just spotted a cheap 105 5800 crankset, I could put a chainring in inner ring position and 41 mm chainline should be just fine for my Singlecross (120 OLD frame).
Do I need some specific, shorter chainring bolts for converting such a double crankset to SS one?
And would 36t Shimano chainring (from 52/36 double) be enough for reliable drivetrain or should I aim for something more SS-specific or narrow-wide?

And it was only for Muut model, the others were unaffected.

Looking to replace Midge bars with something else (main problems for me are too short drops and awkward hand "hoods" position). Considering either something more traditional like 16-degree flared bars with "normal" ~120 mm drop, or more radical flared drops like Ritchey Beacon.
Are big-flare bars useful for racing CX or they are just too wide for this kind of riding? My bike is Tricross Singlecross so any extra leverage for climbing out of the saddle is welcome, but not sure about practicality of such wide bars on CX course.

Did you run the latest version? I saw very positive reviews of older Supremes, my Equilibrium clears 32c so could go for those but I am worried by latest reviews of G-Ones in bicycle rolling resistance, it looks like changing to Addix compound screwed something up.

Which year is your Sutra? Might be interested if it's the version with 73 mm BB with 29x2.2+ clearance.

Nice hack, I have a 2015 frameset and was wondering if later ones are any different. Probably will go for the same setup as you then.

Does the current frame have a mounting hole in chainstay bridge?

Are rear-facing horizontal dropouts suitable for kid trailer towing?
I have a 2015 Longitude, would like to carry my child in the future on our tours, just not sure if attaching the trailer will cause axle to slip.
Would using a bolt-on hub or 10 mm thrubolt like DT RWS prevent that or should I better look for another frameset with thruaxles or vertical dropouts?

I think the main advantage will be better chain/tyre clearance with 3.0 tyre, enabling 3.0 with 2x drivetrain if one wishes.

Having ridden SSCX a lot this spring, I have decided to turn my Longitude to 29+ SSMTB. Oh what fun it is! The rollover is amazing and even with 30 mm rims I really enjoy the plus tyres, together with rapid engagement of Halo hub.

I just have a problem with slipping rear axle, rear is 5 mm QR sadly. I have Tuggnut on the drive side, should I add another one or change for a better QR axle? I have a bolt-on one, but on the side that is supposed to be held by hand (while the other is turned by allen key), it is round and even holding it with material it keeps rotating while trying to tighten it more.

For steel frameset, is it better to keep all the screws in even unused (e.g. triple fork mounts, attachment for derailleur housing when singlespeed, bottle cage mounts) to stop water and mud from entering the frame, or leave the holes open so frame can dry out easier inside?

Looking to replace the brake cables in my (rim brake) Singlecross, does anybody have any experience with Clarks Zero-G? I found it here in Poland for less than half price of Jagwire Road Pro. I would like to have some decent-working cantis (Tektro CR720), but not sure if paying twice as much for Jagwire will be worth it.

The proper adapter is already in place. I also just got a reply from Genesis that 160 is officially approved by them.
Now one more question - is there any noticeable difference between RT64 and RT70 IceTech rotors?
I have spare RT64s from previous bike, here I have one RT70, I could get the second one too, if there is any significant improvement. On the other hand, I heard a lot about IceTech rotors being more susceptible to warping, what is your experience?

I have just received my Equilibrium 931 Disc, I see that the previous owner has used it with 160 mm rotor in the back, while by default it has been 140 (in original spec). Should I switch back to 140 for the peace of mind or can 160 be used just as well?

I have just received my Equilibrium 931 Disc, I see that the previous owner has used it with 160 mm rotor in the back, while by default it has been 140 (in original spec). Should I switch back to 140 for the peace of mind or can 160 be used just as well?

EDIT: just got a quick reply from Genesis that 160 is officially approved by them.