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I bought the Sutra! Got some cheap 700x35 Continental Cyclocross Speed tyres to get it up and running; unfortunately the valve on the old tube broke so I need some new ones (they're in the post). Also have on the way:
- some cheap compressionless outers (no idea whether or not they're any good - they're ).
- cheap 28h rims from PlanetX, to be built up at a later date.
So old groupset on this week (hopefully) and the new cables with at the same time.
On the shopping list are better tyres (Schwalbe G One maybe), a front rack (might have to wait until the next tour), better brakes (HY/RD or Juin Tech maybe), the rest of the new wheelset, and I'm going to keep an eye out for a cheap carbon fork that I can swap in and out. Since everything on the bike works though I think I'm just going to have to wait until those things show up in a sale/on eBay/on here.
Here's a .gif of what I just did in BikeCAD. Not sure why I spent my time on it but I got pretty close. Bottom half is a bit off, maybe due to the camera angle.
- some cheap compressionless outers (no idea whether or not they're any good - they're ).
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FWIW I agree with you somewhat; mocking his appearance doesn't really resolve the problem of him stealing money off someone. However, in that situation the buyer is merely naive/optimistic compared to a seller who is cruel/evil/a criminal/whatever. It's like old ladies who get tricked into giving their money to a Nigerian scammer.
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Right, probably overstated that. It was sketchy on my road bike (not a touring bike) with a lot of weight - I had speed wobble if I didn't grasp the bars firmly and the flex out of the saddle was quite worrying. I also had the front wheel lifting off the ground on gradients of ~30%. The Marin will no doubt handle it better.
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If you're going up hills I would assume you'll be out of the saddle and, as others have said, having loads of weight on the back is quite sketchy in that case. What are you bringing with you? You could put panniers on the back and e.g. your tent on the front to even out the weight a bit. Or front panniers and a bikepacking saddlebag.
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People are always after the TT500 shifters - here's some semi-broken ones that could end up cheap if you know how to fix them/are happy to jam them in the bar ends without expander. Seller says "The 10 speed shifter works but has had its expanding bolt cut to be adapted to a drop bar" whatever that is supposed to mean.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302643339708?ul_noapp=true

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It's not about stiffness (at least it wouldn't be for me) - it's the fact that there are way more 31.8mm bars out there. If you've got an old 1" steerer frame and a bunch of 31.8mm bars it's an obvious solution. And it might be exceptionally ugly but it looks better than a 1" -> 1" 1/8 quill to ahead adapter I think
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Here's an eBay ripoff which I assume is cheaper than the real thing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/J-L-Vintage-Classic-70-80s-NOS-Threaded-Quill-Stem-31-8-80mm-22-2mm/292398008152?hash=item4414478758:m:mkIb-cKBgPSNq5K0zSgy4gw
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ACI Alpina are currently the cheapest double butted you can order in the UK. You won't see much of an improvement spending more on fancier spokes than those.
Cool, I'm absolutely not bothered by 30g extra weight on the spokes, so I'll go for those.
With regards to wheel building, get a decent tension meter and do a lot of research before building. No reason you couldnt build a bombproof pair of wheels on little experience. The key is just taking your time and continually adjusting until all the tensions are even, the wheel is true and round. This might take up a whole afternoon per wheel so paying someone like Arup ~£20ish per wheel to do this for you could be economical. Having verniers to measure up the hubs and rims is also crucial
I have some calipers so that should be fine. I built my last wheel without a tension meter - got it true and round eventually but it took a bloody long time... I took it into the shop afterwards just to have it checked over and the guy said I'd done a great job. So I'd probably just wing it on the tension again and just ping them to check the pitch is approximately even. Then take them to the shop for a check over if they don't seem to be staying true or something.
Like I said I do already have a set of wheels that do the job - they're just overbuilt for 99% of my riding - so I can ride them in the meantime and spend an age on the build process.
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Spokes and nipples I just guessed at from the Pillar website. But no prices so I don't know if I was looking at something too expensive.
Again, I wouldnt worry about weight too much. Do you have a valid reason to use 28h over 32h?
Purely that those Pacenti rims are super cheap on PlanetX at the moment. I'm thinking CL25 instead of TL28 though; 25g lighter each and a more suitable rim width for what I want, only £5 more.
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Is there an increased rim of the nipples breaking though?
i.e.