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great stuff, looks amazing.

oh yes pink

So it is ready to weld now. I have to go and help my girlfriends mum move some logs now, so i will get on with it either later on today or tomorrow morning.

I got the chainstays fitted up as well. I got some photos while cutting the mitres. Chainstays are quite easy as you can align the dummy axle with the vice and bench so that you know you're filing at the correct angle.

Thanks :)

exciting stuff, looking forward to it!

Thanks :)

Yeah at the moment i mitre everything by hand. I did buy a tube notcher just before i left london but didn't manage to get it properly set up to use, and its still in london. I would like to figure out another way as by hand can be a bit tedious sometimes, especially with tig because you need really good fit up. My technique for main tubes is fairly simple, i measure the shortest distance along the mitres using the tool in the photo. Then I cut the short butt mitre and mark from that the shortest distance, then i can file/cut to that. The cutout for the downtube/seatube i mostly eyeball. The biggest challenge is keeping things in phase, so that the mitres are aligned rotationally to each other.

Chainstays are fairly easy, i weld them to the dropouts first then i can cut them to fit, they're quite easy to eyeball and the shape of the mitre is very standard so not too bad. Seatstays are a bit awkward but you just have to take it slowly and continually sense check where you are cutting, otherwise its really easy to file the wrong way and scrap one.

Usually the downtube is the hardest part for me, it just takes a lot of patience to slowly creep up on the right cut, its particularly difficult with large diameter tubes like the track frame i'm building now, which is a 44mm life tube. Im not sure why the larger tubes are hard but they seem more sensitive to being out of phase. A big tube like this is also difficult because its larger than the bb shell, which is 38mm. So i offset the cut in the downtube so that he difference in diameter is all left above the bottom bracket, this then gets removed from the downtube by the cutout for the seat tube

Thanks! i actually got a quick ride in today on it and yeah i could imagine more travel would be handy hah. Its hilarious tho, i havent ridden a mountain bike in a while and forgot how fun it is.

fitup

and progress on the track frame

sneak peak :)

I was going to ! But i saw this fork come up and couldnt resist. I'd quite like to build a rigid fork at some point, i have most of the parts.

Thanks! Its a rockshox recon gold 35, not exactly the perfect fork for this application but i got it pretty cheap so will do nicely. It was 130mm but i changed it to 100mm this morning. I may play a bit with the travel to see how the frame feels slightly slacker.

some parts arrived from ceeway for the next build as well.

pics

Well, the wheel came after a week or so missing an endcap and a pawl. Not ideal, however i bodged an endcap replacement and used it to finish the frame. Its almost complete now, i just need to cut the seat tube slot and attach some braze ons. I'm very happy with its, been a fun build. The wishbone was cool to build and i think i like the way it looks so all good! Ill finish off the last bits today then build it up with the fork and wheels i have to see how itll look.

Thanks! The cargo bike is still one of my favourite frames for sure. Was such a fun build, I'd love to do more at some point.

very good nice work

I've updated my website a bit to look nicer, and even bought myself a domain! I feel very fancy

hillframeworks.com

Tig is very fun! Certainly recommend giving it a go at some point. Its maybe kinda frustrating at first, but once you've got a bit under your belt its very satisfying

Yeah s2 and s6 are fairly similar although the extra silicon in s6 makes it feel like it flows more for sure, i find it a bit more difficult actually as the puddle can be a bit more squirrelly. Hard to put into words. The purpose of the silicon is to bond to contaminants in the weld and then rise to the surface, so i think the s6 is intended for slightly dirtier things.

Awesome, Ive played around a bit with that kind of thing, i think a lot of people like it and you can make nice beads like that for sure! Only thing to be wary of is underfilling the bead, when the pulse on time is very low there isn't much time to fill the puddle with filler. So i know some people who use that technique tend to use a larger filler to be able to add more metal while the pulse pulses.

Oh nice! thats very handy thanks!

I managed to leave the charger for my drill in England, also the battery is ancient and no longer used by makita so i dont think i can buy a charger that readily. Turns out it works fine with a power supply tho!

This is the track frame up next, standard but cool, were going with a nice paintjob from Jack Kingston as well so i think it'll be a very tidy build. Tubes are on the way!