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Sociopathic neoliberalism, to put it redundantly

https://youtu.be/AwTieDfvRUI?si=gvDCCKGK-nxu2DRk

It's as if fields of endeavour are neighbourhoods, being gentrified as the soul evaporates when the money moves in.

Okay, this is fucken brilliant.

https://youtu.be/bLu6H-K4L2Y?si=f82ggfd8L9umnwYY

He's got the proper resting bitchface for a fashion model, too.

Here's Jeff, showing off his Yankee Doodle Jawbones by Oakley, clashing nicely with his Stolen Valour ensemble by the disposals joint on the corner...

That's a nifty link.

polished

Die drawn. Sometimes confusingly called 'slick' like some coated cables are called.

Never seen em called polished.

Band just about deserves to be on a sex offender's register for that

Now there's a freaky album cover. WTF²

Damn, condolences

Those shifter boss adaptors are definitely the go, IMO - without the barrel adjusters they're fairly minimal (and if you're keen, you can pare them down further); they're a proper part you expect to find in that spot; and if you drill out the right one and put a slot in it, you can jam the inline plug/socket into it, inline. Should look about as neat as it can, short of getting fancy with copper-traced sticky tape. You might consider black plastic Campy DT adaptors for a more stealth look and easier modification.

By "sleeve" do you mean super thin tubing that just encases the cable?

Yeah, it's definitely the go for anything with internal cables. If it doesn't come with sleeving, you should only have to fart around the once -then whenever you need to remove a cable, pop a length of sleeve on the end and push the sleeve through the frame or bars before removing the cable. Or if the end of the cable keeps getting stuck in the sleeve, you can carefully push the cable out with the sleeve.

Not really - it doesn't have to be filed absolutely perfectly; you just have to do what you'd do whenever you fit a new hanger, and check its alignment.

First thing I'd do is make sure that wheel is properly dished.

Bar tape is sad. I always use the extra bit behind Ergos, because the lever body is fairly tall where it meets the bars.

Since the internal routing of that brake cable was an arse, I am not minded to redo it!

You just need a length of sleeve - slip it over the end of the cable, pull the cable out with the sleeve on it, bam.

I'd guess it's quite a mission, although much easier than sanding the paint off a frame... Not that that's saying much

I was going to suggest running a tap through the large hole and using a couple of grub screws, from front and back, then I saw this.

The little grub screw from the side is an absolutely awful and rather sketchy way to clamp a brake cable.

if it is accurate then less than half of the Don't Know go green it'll be open the champagne time.

Hell yeah, good luck! 🤞

Readers added context, lol

Without spoke head washers the heads sit all pissed in the larger holes which introduces movement/fatigue.

The tension, and stress relieving step, will pull the heads to a position they won't move from. From there, the only reason a head can move is if the spoke loses tension. Unless it's a steel flange, washers probably do more to protect the flange than the spoke, once you've employed a sufficiently tensioned and stress relieved butted spoke.

Hey, cool

I do wonder if it needs a bit of calibration work, because i'm not really that radical. Or is that what they all say? Fuck.

If you ask me, the actual centre (as in, what it should be) is -10,0 - the only argument should be about how authoritarian or libertarian we want society to be.

IMO the reason there's even an argument about right vs left economics is that we've inherited the world from a brutal hierarchy of domination, and that whole spectrum is just varying degrees of how much people have shaken off that normalisation of bootlicking.

Speaking of watches, the ridiculous nicheness of a slim enough form factor to not catch on your sleeve.

Butted spokes are probably all you need; the extra elasticity should prevent the fatigue failures.

99% of spoke breakage is caused by the loosest spokes losing all tension as they pass by the road.

$85 for a 2mm stem spacer, lol

Is there a nice bit between the cable end and the pinch bolt you can trim back to?

Any half-decent wire cutters should do the job. I can even get a perfectly fine result with a good pair of sidecutters.

‘humans are a pest on the planet’, and 2 billion are enough people

I reckon he might be right about that part, though

What a lert!