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Whoever did them was sacked from a Siberian tractor factory for failing to reach quality standards.

You one of those weirdos who think aluminum welds are shit if they're not ground smooth, or...?

I figured everyone could spot a Blue Lug build these days...

Yeah, that thing (8538.) You won't need to slacken the belt to drop the wheel.

Realizing now you need special tools to remove the lockring (belt whip and lockring tool) so I guess if it loosens, take it to your LBS and have them do the thing.

had a go on both terns; the gear cable routing and absolutely no access to chain pushed me to belt drive and e14. Deposit paid, should be able to collect next week.

the deore one looked like a nightmare to ‘work on’

Congrats. Bit of unsolicited advice - mark the Rohloff lockring when you get it and check it after a couple of days of riding. If it's moved, remove and reinstall it with blue loctite.

Any r & m dealers on here?

My shop is.

What's wrong with the welds?

I think it is electric on tern. Also electric aspect of Rohloff scares me lol, can I buy Enviolo (cabled) with gates and upgrade to Roholoff cabled when it shits itself?

E14 is awesome with Bosch bikes - we move dozens a year. Mechanical Rohloff with Bosch has problems in my experience due to the added torque of the drive unit and the bends of the internally routed lines causing excess drag on an already stiff shifting system.

Enviolo and Rohloff run their shift lines on opposite sides of the bike (DS/NDS respectively) and it's VERY unlikely the frame will have the necessary routing for mechanical Rohloff - if you don't mind zipties, it shouldn't be a problem, tho.

edit double post

Definitely campy.

Working on our first Bosch bike with the new Smart System and 750wh Powertube and holy hell does it feel lightyears ahead of the last generations in terms of cable management!

Absolutely love it.

That's very cool. What frame is it?

I’m going to ask this in here rather than the igh thread as this ones more active.
Getting a frame built and I’ve asked for it to be spaced 135 at the rear to accommodate an alfine or a Rohloff hub. They are chasing me to confirm which hub I’m going to build the bike up with? Is there different cabling/dropouts/chainline which mean you need to decide now? (I’m probably leaning towards Rohloff) but thought I could just get frame built and decide when I see my bank account.

Thanks in advance

Rohloff and Alfine definitely have different cable routing - for Rohloff it's two lines that go along the NDS.

Rohloff also has a number of torque arm options to consider - if you're going custom, OEM1 and OEM2 are the ones to look at. OEM1 requires an extended NDS dropout, and OEM2 requires some sort of stud on the inside of the NDS dropout - some companies braise this straight on, but Rohloff also makes a product that's basically a special nut that you can mount to a rack eyelet that works great (There is also the special brake adapters @MCamb mentioned above.)

As for chainline, I'm unsure about Alfine, but Rohloff has either a 55 or 57mm chainline depending which carrier (freehub body) you're going with, which can be a challenge to work around.

I highly recommend flipping through the Rohloff Manual. It's a jumbled mess, but you'll find A LOT of info in there regarding routing and different mount options etc.

Gear cable snapped on my UA yesterday. After looking through YouTube videos I've ordered replacement inner wires & a cable end gadget. Fingers crossed; it's as easy as it looks. Anyone here have any advice?

Feels like I'm replacing one of these every week or so at our shop.

The most important thing is getting the lengths right. If you crimp the end down and then have to move it, you create a potential point of failure in the cable where you originally crushed it. The best lengths in my experience are (from end of housing ferrule to cable end gadget) 120mm for the underdrive (round steel bit) and 115mm for the overdrive (hooky bit.)

Lastly make sure the barrel adjusters at the shifter are just shy of completely screwed in before you take these measurements and once everything is hooked up again, make sure you use them to get no more than 2mm of movement when you tug on the housing at the shifter. If the lines are too slack, the cables can bind up in the shifter and ruin your day.

I've put about 800km on it and it's been really lovely. I'd expected some drawbacks or a steeper learning curve, but it's really been just... easy.

Been thinking about how it compares to my previous 3x8 friction set up and I thought I'd share a comparison of the ratio if each gear.

There's definitely some lossiness in gears 1-7 as expected, which is why I elected to gear the Rohloff slightly lower than my 3x8.

I loved my Re-DX too, and squeezed some great sounds out of it, only ever by accident though...

Never understood why they called the waveform modifier "feedback."

The Da Vinci cranks are a nice touch.

Oh that's nice.

That's my buddy Alder's bike. He rides HARD.

I'd seen this and one other modern racing Gazelle but their US website is exclusively eBikes. Where do you find info on road bikes like this?

There's definitely a history of their tires having problems and revisions being made to address them without any announcement (Jan isn't really the type to admit his products are anything but flawless) and it's not helped when people who are super into the tires won't have anything but praise even if they know that they weren't great early on.

What kills me are the cranks - I've known a handful of people who've owned them and they've all had issues ranging from shifting issues (mostly 10sp era) to flexy rings to chronic creaking even with every contact face greased. And I'm struggling to believe he's not going to face a lawsuit from some retired dude mangling he hand in the rod-shifting derailleur RH is putting out.

Were you running extralights? I've heard complaints about running them tubeless in the past, but never had an issues with the standard casing versions.

nice! how did you do the rear dynamo wiring?

I had braise-ons added to the underside of the downtube, after the BB it goes up into the rear fender.

very cool. Is that an eccentric BB?

Yes! I had the BSA BB shell replaced so the bike could run a Bushnell EBB.

Someone should do this on a swing bike.