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Post lockdown, I finally rejoined the gym eight weeks ago. Found my gymnastic rings were still in the store cupboard, so they have been getting used again.

Started off having fun finding out what I can manage. Just exploring everything again and really enjoying.

Adding weight to chins and low dips.
Introducing decline ring pushups and rows.
L sit, tucked front and back levers are progressing OK.

Small vitamin supplements bottle.
One of these holds about 33g of coffee and is 85mm tall. Fits in the piston of an aeropress with space around it for some filters. plenty of height to spare in a full size plunger.
https://www.hollandandbarrett.com/shop/product/holland-barrett-magnesium-with-zinc-tablets-60012650

evidently it’s called a snib button)

Close^
If theres not enough space for a bar over the latch, you could bluff that theres one fitted, a bit like fitting a dummy security camera.
Get some dome head m5 coach bolts. Cut them down and glue them into shallow holes,
having the heads showing may look like there's extra reinforcement for the night latch. Especially if there's the kickstop bar over the mortise lock.

They do 3 different keyway options for that reinforcement bar:-
3/5 lever mortise lock 9600UK
Euro cylinder 9600EU
Oval cylinder 9600OV (the one you pictured)

I take it the mortise lock is just a deadbolt, and not a sashlock where you need provision for a handles and spindle
If you did, sashlock guard 9619 would suit with some through bolts to secure the handles on.
https://www.kickstop.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p3178_Kickstop-SashlockGuard---9619.html

Meanwhile many newish builds have thumbturns. You can get British Standard 3* and police approved Secured by Design Diamond thumbturns.... so what gives!

With opaque/ frosted glass in the door and no direct view from another window , a potential burglar would be committed to breaking in before realising the task was a little bit easier.

Yes theres letterbox tools for retreiving keys and turning a key or snib. A thumbturn makes it easier, but I'm still quicker just drilling out the cylinder when someone is locked out.

Do you have a picture of the hinges.
The horizontal adjustment may also affect compression, which may twist the door

Is it a coincidence 🤔
somebody.encourage.observers
guilty.slumped.listening

If the frame had a wood effect foil on, maybe that was faded or starting to peel.
Otherwise they just didn't like the original colour.

we can open from inside, for some reason depressing the handle that side frees the latch that is getting stuck somehow.

It looks like a yale G2000 locking mechanism with lever and movable pad handles.

Your inside handle will be working the upper spindle in the gearbox . 92mm above the cylinder (PZ92), which throws and releases the locking points and also pulls back the latch.

You have offset handles where the outside handle is 62mm above the cylinder (PZ62)works the lower spindle, which only throws and releases the locking points.

Turning the key, should pull back the latch(snib) and something has worn or getting jammed before the key goes far enough.
Replace the gearbox,

Replace the handles with PZ92 lever/lever on a straight through spindle would work, but that will mean anyone can open the door from outside if it's unlocked. *And something in the gearbox isnt happy, so maybe asking for a lockout in the future.

There's a mesh filter washer in the two water feeds to the bar valve. Maybe the hot one is becoming blocked and not flowing enough water.

Shut off the supply and undo the two nuts securing the bar onto the wall. Replace washers and refit bar.
The washers will probably fall apart when removing, so don't be tempted to have a look without spares on hand.

It works both ways stopping solar UV heat gain and being in a greenhouse in the summer and while solar gain is lost in the winter that is mitigated by heat being reflected back in to the room

Convince me!
Why do Low-E units have to be installed the correct way around.... with the coated pane to the inside. To increase solar gain, by allowing the shorter wavelength energy from the sun in, and reflecting the longer wavelength heat energy back into the room.

You can also use low iron glass, in the outer pane, to maximise solar gain.

I don't think there's anything without a tint.

All the films and solar control glass have some degree of tint or darkening. They also limit solar heat gain in winter, when it's a welcome addition.

It may not be practical, but the most effective method at limiting solar gain is something external which shades the window-
Roof overhang, Passivehaus style.
Pergola
Awning blind/shutter.

As already mentioned, curtains or blinds with a light coloured backing make a big difference, to the amount a room heats up.

get the units replaced with pilkington K Low-E glass.

If they aren't already, this will reduce the heat loss from the room. Great for winter, but poor for the really hot days.

The plastic sheeting that you removed was probably to help keep some heat in. It doesn't look like there's any insulation between the two frames, so that's probably just a flashing strip between inside and out. Ply sheeting isn't located in the provided grove in the frame, so that's probably draughty....

With the large sections of frame down the middle of the available opening, you would get more glazed area from a single skylight, even if you downsize it a bit to get a tidy installation.

New velux windows are 24mm overall thickness double glazed units. Yours may be the older 16mm versions, but I don't know what year the change over was.

Obviously you'd need the window £600-800.
Flashing kit £100-150.
If the old ones are in working order, sell them on

@giles337
It would have been cheaper to install a larger single than the two smaller ones.

Top hung Velux would have been a better choice, as you can open the bottom edge outwards for normal use, even if the tunnel is too steep for centre pivot to rotate. They also reverse, centre pivot style for cleaning and have the ventilation flap at the top.
With a bit of care, having the bottom edge open and then unlocking the top, they can be reversed even when the top edge would normally clash with the tunnel.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/browse/roof-windows/pitched-roof-windows/velux-roof-windows/top-hung.html

There's a rebate built into the sides of the frame (arrowed), for the surround to slot into. Accepts 12.5mm plasterboard or ply. If there's any scope for un-bogging that.

As Howard says, are you sure you want to open them now?
The vent flap shouldn't cause too much of a problem, but id be cautious unlocking and expecting the pivot hinges to open and then close again.

There's a big variation between frame profiles and some are going to be better than others. I'd avoid the likes of the 88 Aluclip, as that's just a nice UPVC window with a trim stuck on. I'd be buying aluminium windows for the strength and rigidity of aluminium.

This lists a few profiles.
https://www.archiexpo.com/architecture-design-manufacturer/aluminum-window-profile-23777.html

Like any window or door attention to detail when building the frames and fitting is probably more important than the actual profile!

What options do I have?
It depends on which sticky stuff you have been trying.

E profile sponge is quite thin, or stormguard V seal.

which is eliminated when I put pressure on the door, which suggests that the hinges or locking mechanism/keeps arent very good.
How can I improve this?

Pm me some photos showing the hinges and locking mechanism/ shootbolt keeps and I'll try to point you in the right direction.

30 days in november any even out that dip.
More dryer usage from Oct onwards.

Dehumidifiers have a fairly large difference in power usage, depending on where the weather is coming from and outside air temp.
Cold dry(ish) polar air carries much less moisture than warmer air from the tropics.

Also need to fix my windows that are a bit draughty

That needs replacement friction hinges, as the hinge isn't pulling the top corner against the seal.

A temporary (partial) fix. If you can reach from outside , open the window a few inches. Push against the top corners as you close and lock the window. That usually gets it much closer until it's opened again.

If it's a double glazed unit, I'd er on the side of disturb it as little as possible unless you can see a problem with water ingress or very perished seals. Removing retaining beads/seals just to check, may cause more harm than good.

If a DGU has been clamped in a frame for years, releasing the clamping pressure can allow the glass to separate from the spacer. Moist air to gets pulled in to the cavity, as the glass warms and cools. Then condensation between the panes starts to accumulate once the desiccant becomes saturated.

If there are gaps in the corners up to 30-40mm, where the external glazing seals are, a bit of additional sealant will prevent excessive amounts of water getting down into the drainage system. Use a glazing safe sealant (or find a wedge gasket that fits)
https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/soudal-silirub-n-neutral-cure-building-silicone.html

I solved today's Redactle (#277) in 81 guesses with an accuracy of 53.09%. Played at https://www.redactle.com/

Got there in the end

I solved today's Redactle (#276) in 24 guesses with an accuracy of 79.17%. Played at https://www.redactle.com/

First time completing, as I usually give up around 50 or so guesses.

Do you have an idea of the temperature and humidity in the room/home.

The paper may well cover up the problem, but not cure the cause.

This sounds like bollox.

Saniflo or not, how does water escape from a bath, without the tap being left on and unattended?
If the Saniflo wasn't working, they'd pull the bath plug and the water wouldn't drain, which shouldn't be a huge drama unless they tried to fix it

Likely to be Reddiplex R6160
https://jcphardware.co.uk/r6160-bubble-gasket-upvc-window-door-double-glazing-rubber-seal/